Iran-Iraq pilgrimage: Indian pilgrims, tour operators caught in limbo amid Israel-Iran war

Indian Express

23-06-2025

EVEN AS the eyes of the world are on the Middle East crisis brewing over the past couple of weeks following the Israel-Iran war, at least 3,000 pilgrims from India have been anxiously watching the developments unfold at the war front. The reason–thousands of Shia and Dawoodi Bohras from India who visit Iraq and Iran–some even chartering a plane–during the month of Muharram and who have already booked tickets and planned their trip are now stuck because of the war. Muharram is the first month of the Islamic calendar–that begins on June 27 to mourn the tragedy of Karbala–located in Iraq, where the Prophet's grandson and his family were killed on 10th Muharram known as Ashura.
Sakina Ali (40), a Mumbai resident, while speaking to The Indian Express, said, 'I had given my family's passports to commemorate Ashura in Karbala, although it seems unlikely now due to world events. We have got a visa for two months and we are still waiting and hoping for the situation to calm down. Also, it is our firm faith that the list of invitees is made by Hazrat Abbas, the brother of Imam Hussain who was martyred in Karbala, and if he has chosen us, nothing can stop us from going there.'
In the previous years, while the pilgrims would be busy packing their suitcases and making last-minute purchases, this year they have been glued to the TV sets and on calls with tour operators trying to figure out whether they would actually be able to go in the face of the hostilities.
While initially the tour operators seemed confident, later with the US entering the war and two of the three airports used for these pilgrimages in Iraq being shut, the tour operators have almost given up unless there is a drastic reduction in hostilities.
Tour operators said that there may be at least 3,000 people including the Dawoodi Bohras and Shias travelling to these pilgrimage sites from across India for Ashura.
'Though giving a proper estimate is difficult, for Ashura which is 10th of Muharram when the battle of Karbala was fought, there are at least 3,000 people going there. Apart from that, on Arbaeen, the 40th day after Ashura, there are nearly 5,000 people travelling to the pilgrim site,' a Mumbai-based tour operator said. Some of these tour operators are so popular that they charter entire airlines to Iran-Iraq for pilgrimage, the operator said.
Ali Raza Merchant from ACF tours, one of the biggest tour agencies in Mumbai, told The Indian Express, 'There are Baghdad, Najaf and Basra international airports that we used to take people to pilgrimage sites. However, both Baghdad and Najaf have been shut down and Basra airport is mainly being used for evacuation purposes. Hence, as of now, unless there is drastic de-escalation, we will not be able to take tourists to Iran-Iraq. Also, we do not know whether the war will escalate. So, there is no point going there and getting stuck.'
Tanveer Gabharani from Aal-e-Imran pilgrimage that takes pilgrims to these sites said, 'Our tour will not go to Iraq as the airspace has been shut. Only Basra airport is open but that too for evacuation of pilgrims who are already there for Arafah and Ghadeer. Mumbai is usually one of the hubs apart from Delhi and Bhavnagar in India from where these pilgrims go to these countries. Unfortunately tour operators and pilgrims will have to bear some of the losses as bookings had already been made.'
Gabharani said that hotel bookings, flight tickets, and visa expenses are done months in advance as these pilgrim sites are hugely popular during Moharram with tourists coming from across the world. 'The hotel booking expenses will have to be borne by us while the visa expenses will have to be borne by the tourists. We are hoping that air ticket money is refunded by airlines. Usually, pilgrims get a two-month visa. So, if the situation improves, they can use it later,' he said.
A tour operator said, 'There are four airlines that ferry pilgrims to these sites. Of these, only Iraqi Airways is granting refunds if tickets have been booked. The other three are low-cost carriers that allow pilgrims to get the amount reimbursed if they book the flight next time.'
For most of these tour operators and pilgrims, the best-case scenario would be that even if they are not able to be in Karbala for Ashura, things de-escalate by the time of Arbaeen and authorities agree to postpone the bookings made now for that time. 'In that situation too, there will be an issue as in some cases the visas are issued only for a month and Arbaeen would be 50 days later. Those with a two-month visa may be able to avail of the service if the same is offered,' a tour operator said.