In The Vines With Léa Rouyet, Winemaker At Maison Gassier In Provence
The winery isn't just about making pretty pink wine for poolside sipping. They're ambassadors for what happens when exceptional terroir meets serious winemaking, so forget everything you think you know about Provence rosé being a basic patio sipper. Rouyet's ELEVAE belongs on the most serious wine lists in the world and has great aging potential. Earlier this spring, the Côtes de Provence sub-region of Sainte-Victoire was officially recognized as the first cru of Provence—a milestone for the region's rosé and red wines.
What sets Gassier apart isn't just Rouyet's exceptional winemaking, though her sustainable practices and artisanal approach deserve serious recognition. The estate hosts the "Gassier Challenge," bringing together Michelin-starred restaurants and world-class sommeliers to prove that great rosé deserves a seat at the table.
Just because it's serious wine doesn't mean it's stuffy. In spring 2025, the winery also revealed a modern, hexagonal glass bottle with sculpted edges and an engraved 1982 founding date—a nod to six generations of winemakers, French artisanship, and the year Antoni Gassier acquired the 40-hectare vineyard in Puyloubier.
Paris's legendary Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel, partnered with Maison Gassier earlier this spring to create Le Pas du Moine - 350, an exclusive rosé cuvée available only at the hotel, chosen by head sommelier Xavier Thuizat for its exceptional terroir-driven character from night-harvested grapes. This wine reveals crisp notes of white peach, apricot, and violet in Gassier's signature hexagonal bottle, pairing perfectly with the Michelin-starred cuisine at L'Écrin and innovative creations at Nonos par Paul Pairet.
Now, back to the winemaker. I sat down with Léa Rouyet for the latest installment of "In the Vines With" to chat far beyond the basics:
Jenn Rice: What inspired you to get into winemaking?
Léa Rouyet: I'm from the Southwest of France, an agricultural region, and I've always had a desire to work closely with nature. I discovered viticulture during my agronomy studies, and it was a turning point for me. What captivated me was this dual dimension: the cultivation of land and vines, and the craftsmanship of the winemaker who transforms raw grapes into a wine that reflects their personality. You shape a wine as you would an idea—creating a wine means giving life to a part of yourself. And I also knew I'd be working in an inspiring environment—and just look at me today, working at the foot of the iconic Sainte-Victoire mountain.
JR: Your most proud moment as a winemaker?
LR: Without hesitation, the first time I planted a vine, back in 2016, shortly after I joined Maison Gassier. That moment left a deep impression on me: planting a vine isn't just putting a plant into the ground—it's starting a dialogue with the land that will last for decades. These vines will carry our story and live well beyond our lives as winemakers. It was a powerful moment for someone as connected to nature as I am.
JR: What is your first wine memory?
LR: Sunday lunches: roasted chicken at my grandmother's, with a glass of light, fruity red wine. It was more than just a meal—it was a moment of transmission. Wine was always, naturally, part of the decor.
JR: What are you currently enjoying from your portfolio?
LR: The 2024 vintage of our cuvée Le Pas du Moine – 350 Rosé. This latest vintage perfectly captures the aromatic signature of Maison Gassier, and I'm loving it! This Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire strikes the perfect balance between elegance and indulgence. There's aromatic complexity built around fruit, paired with a polished finesse and crisp freshness. The 2024 vintage is a great success—it embodies Gassier's vision: a terroir-driven rosé made for everyday life.
JR: A sommelier who's blown your mind with wine pairings?
LR: One pairing by Xavier Thuizat [at Hôtel de Crillon, A Rosewood Hotel in Paris] truly stood out: our 946 cuvée, a gastronomic rosé aged in demi-muids, paired with just-seared red mullet and grilled peppers. The velvety texture of the wine, its sun-kissed fruit and subtle oak tones beautifully matched the finesse of the dish.
JR: If you could take one wine to an island and that's it, what would it be and why?
LR: Our Côtes de Provence Gassier rosé, no question: a joyful, sun-drenched wine, perfectly suited for life by the sea. It would pair wonderfully with freshly caught fish. And it would also bring me a bit of comfort—hopefully I wouldn't be alone on that island!
JR: What is so unique about the terroir of Sainte-Victoire?
LR: What makes the Sainte-Victoire valley unique is the nature that sets the rhythm—the light, the climate. This place combines limestone bedrock with clay-rich soils, and an exceptional selection of grape varieties (Syrah and Grenache), ideal for crafting great rosés. Plus, we benefit from a microclimate created by the surrounding mountains—Sainte-Victoire, Monts Auréliens, and the Sainte-Baume mountain. Not to mention the remarkable biodiversity and preserved ecosystems…
JR: What do you think people often misunderstand about wine (and rosé, in particular)?
LR: Many people feel lost when it comes to wine vocabulary. It can seem intimidating, even excluding. Some are afraid of making a mistake when picking out a bottle. As for rosé, it still suffers from a lot of clichés. Some think it's just a mix of white and red wine, or that it can't be considered a great wine. But with exceptional terroir and well-farmed vines, you can create rosés of remarkable finesse and complexity. Rosé deserves to be taken seriously.
JR: What is your go-to libation when you need a break from wine?
LR: A blonde beer or an IPA with exotic notes. I find aromas in them that I also enjoy in wine, but with a refreshing, immediate feel. It's simple, accessible, and carefree—perfect for unwinding.
JR: A wine region on your bucket list?
LR: Without leaving France, I'd love to explore Beaujolais. There's a sense of humility and sincerity there that I truly admire. Wine remains a product of pleasure and sharing. I want to meet those winemakers and experience the family spirit and authenticity. It's the same spirit I find at Maison Gassier: a property that blends high standards with simplicity, where terroir and craftsmanship guide everything we do.
JR: The future of wine is…
LR: A return to the essentials. Simplicity. Terroir. I believe the future lies in more sincere consumption, clearer communication, and a deeper respect for biodiversity.
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