These Graduated Bobs Work on Every Face Shape and Hair Type
Need real-life inspo? Look to Lily Collins, who recently stepped out with a Posh Spice–inspired bob, and to Victoria Beckham herself—an early champion of the cut—who's reimagined it with airy layers and subtle waves.
Below, ELLE spoke with Mark Hayes, international creative director at House of Sassoon, about how to cut, style, and wear the nostalgic crop now.
'The graduated bob is the ultimate power haircut. It's cut shorter in the back and becomes gradually longer in the front, tracing the jawline,' Hayes explains. 'A lightly graduated crown keeps it effortlessly chic and accentuates the natural shape of the head.'
The hairstyle originated in the '60s, defined by geometric precision, bold lines, and sharp structure before being popularized years later by the likes of Victoria Beckham and Keira Knightley. 'Today, the cut remains as relevant as ever,' Hayes says, noting that it's now slightly less sharp—think longer front layers and softer waves. 'It's flattering, stylish, and endlessly versatile.'
Precision matters, even if you choose a more subtle take on the trend, and that often means employing a 'twist-cut' technique—cutting hair at an angle to form a diagonal line.
'The genius lies in the fact that the graduated bob isn't just a haircut; it's architecture,' Hayes explains. 'You have to cut carefully, ensuring the shorter back and the longer, face-framing front work together to enhance bone structure, add volume, and create a dynamic shape.'
The style suits virtually every hair type and face shape. 'It flatters oval, heart, and round faces, adding balance and sharpening features,' he notes. It works best on fine to medium textures: 'The layers help create the illusion of thickness and bounce, giving even the limpest locks a major boost.'
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