Castles, causeways and crab sandwiches in Northumberland
1 Craster, a short drive from Alnwick, is a charming fishing village with a rugged coastline, crashing waves and bracing coastal walks. It is also a foodie delight. The Jolly Fisherman (thejollyfishermancraster.co.uk) is ideally placed to enjoy the sea views. In its airy conservatory at the back of the pub, you can tuck into a feast of fresh fish on the daily menu, including crab, North Sea prawns, moules frites, salmon ∧ haddock fishcakes. Outside the pub, you'll notice a distinctive smoky aroma, no surprise as the shop opposite, L Robson & Sons, is home to the kipper, smoking fish on its site since 1856 and now awarded grade 11-II listed status.
2 Chances are that a stay in Northumberland will include rain, which is when Bamburgh Castle (bamburghcastle.com) really comes into its own. Less overrun with tourists than Alnwick, it's also cheaper. Overlooking an epic sweep of beach and perched above the sand dunes, this 900-old castle has 14 rooms to explore, from the medieval kitchen to the Victorian Kings Hall, along with a fascinating history from its Norman origins to the current family living there.
3 Idyllically pretty Warkworth village is the perfect base for exploring the coastline, with a quaint high street, regency cottages and a castle on the hill. It's also a 15-minute walk to a stunning beach. Along this vast, sandy – and surprisingly empty – sweep of coastline you'll find neighbouring Alnmouth, another picturesque village with dunes and grassland overlooking the bay. Head for Main Street with its cosy tearooms and pubs; a local favourite is the mahogany panelled Red Lion Inn, although the fresh crab sandwiches at Bistro 23 are well worth a detour, too (bistro23.co.uk).
4 For something distinctly less quaint, more mysterious and otherworldly, head to Holy Island. The drive across the causeway is reason enough to visit – the narrow strip of land, submerged by sea during high tide, is flat, desolate and eerily beautiful. There's much else besides; the 12th-century Lindisfarne priory, the epicentre of Christianity in Anglo Saxon times, and Lindisfarne castle perched on a rocky plateau. Don't miss Pilgrims Gelato, part of the Oat Kitchen on the main street (theoatkitchen.co.uk), with homemade vegan ice-cream and sorbets well worth the regular queues.
5 Hadrian's Wall stretches 73 miles coast to coast, from the River Tyne in the east to the Solway Firth in the west. Inland, Steel's Rigg near Sycamore Gap, has some of the best views along the wall, including ancient Roman ruins and a glacial lake. For a treat at the end of your walk is the Twice Brewed Inn (twicebrewedinn.co.uk) – their Sycamore Gap pale ale and fishfinger sandwiches are highly recommended.
6 Stay at the Old Stables, nestled in the curve of the River Coquet and right next to Warkworth's bucolic church green. It is stylishly restored and converted with exposed brick and double-height kitchen giving it a loft-style feel. (The Old Stables (seven nights from £860, two bedrooms, sleeps four; sykescottages.co.uk.)
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