Kolhapuri chappals are now high fashion, but here's how I get real ones for a song

The National

27-06-2025

India's rich culture has inspired many international fashion brands over the decades.
Hermes, Saint Laurent and, more recently, Gucci have all created their version of the sari. The late Karl Lagerfeld showcased pieces reminiscent of the bandhgala kurta for Chanel's autumn 2012 collection, while Jimmy Choo and Christian Louboutin footwear have featured Indian-inspired embroidery over the years. Several brands have also taken popular ethnic garments such as dupattas, Nehru jackets and turbans, and fused it with their designs.
This week, as part of its spring/summer 2026 show in Milan, Prada sent out footwear that resembles the humble Kolhapuri chappal, a handcrafted tan-coloured leather sandal that can be found in almost every Indian home – and a style I have been wearing since I can remember.
Kolhapuri chappals are believed to have originated around the 13th century in the city of Kolhapur in Maharashtra, where artisans and cobblers made them by hand – from cutting and shaping the cowhide leather and stitching all the pieces together, to adding colour using vegetable dyes.
Known by different names across India, including paytaan and kachkadi, these sturdy sandals are an everyday staple for both men and women. The versatile style, from the classic tan and dark brown designs to ones with colourful straps, pairs well with both Indian and non-Indian outfits. They are also comfortable to wear and walk around in all day – just maybe not during the monsoons.
Gold and silver-strapped versions can be worn during Diwali and on other special occasions, while colourful Kolhapuris add a fun touch to daywear, depending on your mood. Some brands also make Kolhapuris with wedge heels.
I still buy handmade pieces from markets on my visits back home, such as in Old Delhi, a must-visit if a trip to India is on the cards. A plain pair costs about 800 to 1,000 rupees (up to Dh42), while an ornate pair will set you back about 1,500-1,800 rupees (up to Dh77).
One of my favourite places to buy handmade Kolhapuris is Dilli Haat, in the heart of New Delhi. Here, you can find footwear with sequins and embroidery – at a fraction of the price usually charged by branded stores. While they are traditionally crafted in light tan, a pair can be made as dark as you want as the artisans add dye to it on the spot.
I have also discovered other brands that have added a modern spin to this classic chappal with detailed embroidery and ornate embellishments. There are bright, fun and colourful pairs, often featuring varying colours for the sole and strap that offer a nice contrast to all the black clothes I like to wear. Many of these brands also work directly with craftswomen in villages and ship internationally, including to the UAE, with prices starting at about 3,000 rupees (Dh128).
Prices for Prada's "version" have not been revealed yet, but the brand's men's sandals are typically priced from Dh3,000.
While a luxury purchase often represents feel-good indulgence, for something that takes inspiration from an ancient handicraft, perhaps it's better to support artisans who have been keeping these traditions alive for hundreds of years.