What do skin burns and stem cells have to do with popular luxury skincare brands La Mer and Augustinus Bader?

CNA

2 days ago

Loving how youthful your complexion has been looking from diligent applications of your favourite Augustinus Bader or La Mer creams? You might be surprised to know that these were the result of some life-changing, even life-saving, medical skincare research?
For instance, the former's The Cream, which is loved by celebrities Victoria Beckham, Kim Kardashian and Hailey Bieber. This cult product from the eponymous brand founded by German biomedical scientist Professor Augustinus Bader was inspired by stem cell research. As a young student doctor at Shanghai's Ruijin Hospital, he was looking for a treatment for burn victims that allowed for scar-free healing.
Meanwhile, French brand La Mer's iconic Creme de La Mer was a direct result of founder and aerospace physicist Dr Max Huber's quest to find a cure for explosion burns after a laboratory accident.
There's also Embroylisse's Lait de Concentrate, well-loved globally by makeup artists and even Emily In Paris' Lily Collins. Its source of inspiration was the French pharmacy skincare brand's founder and dermatologist Dr Tricot's research into coming up with skin-soothing solutions for his patients' skin disorders.
So what exactly do these all have in common?
'Ingredients that promote tissue repair, cell regeneration, collagen synthesis – all of which are beneficial for addressing signs of ageing,' said Dr Lee Hwee Chyen, consultant dermatologist and medical director, Epi Dermatology & Laser Specialist Clinic.
UNDERSTANDING THE SKIN'S NATURAL HEALING MECHANISM
How does the skin's reparative functions work? When you get a cut or burn, it causes an inflammation within the skin, which is what triggers the skin's natural healing mechanisms to heal itself.
Unfortunately, the rate in which our skin self-heals slows down with age. The reason behind it is because our immune system that plays a crucial role in addressing this inflammation also reduces with age.
And it is this reduced immunity that leads to a slower rate of cell regeneration, which results in 'all stages of wound healing slowing down', added Dr Lee.
But this inflammation isn't just limited to cuts, bruises or burns. In fact, research has shown that extrinsic and intrinsic factors like UV, pollution and stress can also cause skin inflammation.
Herein lies the danger. As this underlying inflammation happens daily, it can exhaust the skin's natural defence system, weakening its structure and protective skin barrier, leading to collagen and elastin degradation.
Thus, while these stressors are more gradual and subtle, it does not make them any less damaging. 'The damage is cumulative and progressive, it does not happen overnight,' added Dr Lee.
HELPING YOUR SKIN REPAIR ITSELF
And it was the skin's reparative mechanism that inspired Prof Bader in his work.
When the skin is injured, regardless of whether it is from a burn or UV exposure, it triggers a repair need, which is 'answered by your stem cells to execute the repair process," he told CNA Lifestyle in an interview.
The key in the skin's regenerative pathway of healing, he continued, lies within the 'cellular communication between the skin's stem cells'.
He discovered this while looking at how the young children in Ruijin Hospital's burn unit healed, realising that despite their young age, their healing still formed scars.
Prof Bader's realisation: 'It was not a shortage of stem cells, but it was a shortage of signals that would have been made by the cells.'
So why are these cells so important in helping the skin's healing process?
'Think of the skin's stem cells as instruments in an orchestra. The conductor is the one who signals which instrument is played at the precise moment, and in the same way, the skin's cellular signalling tells the stem cells what is needed as it triggers a response and repair sequence," he explained.
And as these signals can get damaged when the skin is injured or weakened with age, daily repair to restore skin to a healthy state is crucial, even more when the skin undergoes persistent inflammation triggers.
'Damage happens every day, and the more damage we have, the more need we have for repair,' said Professor Bader.
At the heart of his brand Augustinus Bader is a patented Trigger Factor Complex 8 (TFC8), a scientific technology that nourishes and protects the skin by supporting the skin's innate potential for renewal.
'Stem cells are autonomous in their decision making process and they're constantly interpreting the environment around them. TFC8 is a toolbox and navigation map that contains not only what the cells need but also to help boost the cellular communication between the stem cells on how to fix the skin,' explained Prof Bader.
In short, it is about 'boosting the signals to support healthy skin'.
Added Prof Bader: 'The idea is to allow your body to make its own elastin and hyaluronic acid, among others, so that it can heal itself. And when skin is healthy, you're beautiful.'
AIDING SKIN'S NATURAL REPAIR
As Dr Lee shared, the right key active ingredients can aid skin's reparative functions. Here's what you should look out for in your next anti-ageing skincare formulation.
Vitamin C. A multi-tasking, hardworking ingredient that promotes collagen synthesis and reduces oxidative stress, while targeting hyperpigmentation and improving skin texture.
Peptides. These short chains of amino acids help with promoting collagen synthesis, enhancing skin elasticity and reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). In addition to promoting collagen synthesis and skin elasticity, GAGs, such as hyaluronic acid, also help maintain moisture in the skin, keeping it plump and youthful.
Vitamin B3 (also known as niacinamide). Packed with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, it protects against free radical damage while maintaining skin hydration and strengthening skin's barrier.
Ceramides. These naturally occurring lipids work to restore and support skin's natural barrier function while improving skin hydration and elasticity at the same time.
1. Embryolisse Lait-Creme Concentre, from S$21.10
Despite its simple formula of emollient oil, soy proteins, aloe vera, shea butter and beeswax, this nourishing cream instantly soothes skin irritation while quenching parched skins. It also doubles up as a hydrating mask and makeup remover too.
Available at Watsons stores.
2. Eucerin UltraSensitive Repair Cream, S$50.36
Based on skincare research, the UltraSensitive Repair Cream combines unique actives, that work together to soothe, nourish and protect the skin, reducing signs of irritation and delivering long-lasting comfort.
Available at Watsons stores and the official Eucerin store on Lazada.sg.
3. Augustinus Bader The Cream, from S$280
The brand's OG product featuring its iconic TFC8 complex, this lightweight daily moisturiser keeps skin smooth and supple while aids in skin repair to erase signs of ageing for a healthy and youthful looking you.
Available at Augustinus Bader counter and Sephora stores.
4. ReVive Moisturising Renewal Cream, S$320
Adapting Nobel Prize-winning science on epidermal growth factors (EGFs) – naturally occurring proteins in the body crucial for skin health and rejuvenation, into a unique Bio-Renewal Technology to mimic skin's renewal process, this night-time moisturiser works hard while you sleep to reveal a smooth, supple and youthful complexion in the morning.
5. La Mer The Moisturising Fresh Cream, from S$370
Your favourite La Mer moisturiser but in a feather-light cream that's perfect for oilier skin types. In addition to its iconic Miracle Broth, this refreshing cream also uses a unique 3D technology consisting of phase-changing polymers that help lift and improve appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, leaving skin feeling supple and bouncy.