Anti-ageing products in your 20s? What dermatologists say

India Today

5 hours ago

The skincare industry has seen a major shift from a 3-step cleansing routines to prioritising anti-ageing products.Previously, products specifically reserved for older age groups like retinol (a derivative of vitamin A) are now found in the beauty drawers of millennials and Gen Z.But what is driving this trend? Is it an educated choice based on skincare science or just a byproduct of changing beauty standards and skincare attitude? Although these products promise long-term gains, they also require careful usage and guidance to truly be effective and safe.advertisement
CULTURAL, SOCIAL MEDIA INFLUENCESSociety's obsession with 'youthful' and 'glowing' skin has created an environment where proactive skincare is celebrated.With Instagram, healthcare routines have transformed into a content-creation ritual, a habit showcased to the public rather than solely for personal upkeep.Social media influencers tirelessly promote and disseminate 'anti-ageing' tricks, alongside endless viral transformation highlights and product suggestion videos.
Society's obsession with 'youthful' and 'glowing' skin has created an environment where proactive skincare is celebrated. ()
"I started using anti-ageing products like retinol at around 19, although I don't use them very often. I was influenced mostly by social media and the people around me who were starting to focus on skincare,' said 21-year-old Maria, who thinks that anti-ageing products could delay her wrinkles.advertisementThe idea of 'preventive care' has become popular online, not just with dermatologists but also among lifestyle creators.Preventing wrinkles, fine lines and dullness before they appear is now seen by many as responsible self-care.Beauty brands have cleverly promoted anti-ageing products as crucial youthful investments, appealing even to individuals showing no signs of ageing.Terms such as 'prevention,' 'repair,' and 'anti-pollution' position these products as indispensable for the urban youth.Dr. Amit Bhasin, dermatologist and founder of PrivLux Skin & Wellness Clinic, explains, "This trend is driven by marketing pressure, where beautiful packaging, viral ads, or celebrity-endorsed brands (often without any research or dermatological backing) convince people to start treatments that may not be safe for them."When he asks a patient why they purchased a certain product, the reply comes swift: 'Because I loved the packaging' or 'I saw someone famous using it.' 'This kind of impulsive buying, based on aesthetic appeal rather than science, is worrying,' he adds.Dermatologist Dr. Kiran Sethi, founder of Isya Aesthetics, agrees: 'People fall for marketing, that's why marketing exists. It works. That's why doctors are needed to sift through the news.'WHEN SHOULD YOU START AN ANTI-AGEING SKINCARE ROUTINE?While many young adults turn to anti-ageing products thinking they will improve their skin texture, not everyone is aware of how their skin actually functions at that age.advertisementSkin in 20s is already naturally rich in collagen, the primary building block of the skin, and tends to have faster cell turnover, which is why dermatologists often recommend a minimal, protective routine instead of jumping into active-heavy formulas.'You are still net positive in collagen until the age of 25 and then the decrease is about 1% a year. But visible ageing typically happens in your 30s. I think we can consider anti-aging products after the age of 30,' Dr. Sethi points out.Aarushi, 27, started using retinol a few months ago after relocating from London to India. She noticed early signs of comedonal acne and neck lines and wanted to act early."To fix these issues, I did some online research, then consulted my mother's dermatologist and bought a famous K-beauty cream, not recommended by the doctor,' she says.She uses it two to three times a week, only at night, and has had a relatively smooth experience so far."Thankfully I haven't felt any negative effects until now. To be honest, I haven't seen any changes in my neckline, but I have seen a huge difference in my acne. My acne has reduced quite a bit since I started using retinol,' she says.advertisementOn the other hand, not everyone had professional input before starting. Maria, for instance, admitted, "I didn't consult a dermatologist beforehand, so I wasn't fully aware of the potential side effects or how to use it properly."
While many young adults turn to anti-ageing products thinking they will improve their skin texture, not everyone is aware of how their skin actually functions at that age, say experts. ()
Saleha, 28, also reflected on her past use. "I saw people online discussing how retinols help reverse ageing and get rid of fine lines and wrinkles, so that fueled most of my insecurities back then."But over time, her approach changed. "Honestly, I've never been consistent with it, and it's totally overhyped. Ageing is natural, we as women have been influenced by society and social media to look a certain way which isn't ideal."advertisementCAUTION IS NECESSARYMany dermatologists now say that overloading on actives at a young age may do more harm than good."I see the consequences every day in my clinic, chemical burns, severe pigmentation, skin thinning, or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), all because they self-medicated with actives like retinol without understanding how to use the,' Dr. Bhasin warns.Dr. Sethi adds that many young people power pack and combine a significant number of actives with rollers and guashas, and get barrier damage resulting in sensitive, rosacea-prone and irritated skin.'Overdoing it will do the opposite of the goal of great skin. Signs of overuse include red, inflamed, dry, acne-prone and sensitive skin,' she says.LESS IS MOREDermatologists repeatedly emphasise that in your 20s, less is more.Building a strong foundation with cleanser, moisturiser and sunscreen is more effective than experimenting with powerful actives without supervision.Introduce retinol later, when its actually needed, doctor says.For young people, focus on simplistic skincare routines with protective sunblock and antioxidative care to prevent environmental damage.Other ways to strike a balance is by maintaining a healthy lifestyle like having a balanced diet, getting regular sleep and managing stress.advertisementWhile the anti-ageing products can be beneficial, their use should be thoughtful and tailored to individual needs.(Article by Arima Singh)- EndsMust Watch