I stayed in the ‘rundown dump' named the UK's worst city to visit — it stole my heart

Metro

6 hours ago

In the 11th installment of Metro Travel Hot Takes, Jon Fellowes argues that Derby punches well above its weight — despite being described as a rundown dump.
We Brits love a good city break, and with so many fantastic choices across the UK, it's easy to see why. However, one place that hasn't been feeling the love of late is the East Midlands city of Derby.
A recent survey conducted by Which? collected data from 3,967 members, rating UK cities and towns they'd visited for leisure (staying overnight at least once since April 2022).
The results were divided into small, medium, and large cities, listing 62 destinations. Unfortunately, Derby narrowly 'beat' Leicester and Swansea to finish last in their category's final list 25.
Often seen as somewhere you travel through, visitors on Reddit described it as a place that made them feel 'lonely and depressed'. Others called it 'rundown' and 'a dump.'
After Metro published the survey findings, the good folk of Derby responded with an equal mix of fire, brimstone and what turned out to be characteristically delightful humour in defence of their beloved city.
VistDerby demanded that we immediately dispatch a journalist to get a real, on-the-ground experience of 'Derbados' via a tailor-made itinerary.
We happily obliged, partly in not wishing to draw more ire from the township of Derby (lest we break down on the A601 to be greeted with pitchforks and torches), but also because we were more than a little intrigued as to what lay in store.
What we found not only seemed to confound the opinion of Which?'s respondents but, in fact, completely stole our hearts — so much so that we came dangerously close to staying longer than planned, parking charges be damned.
From a celebrated rich industrial heritage to exciting renovations and developments, Derby's past, present, and future are very much on display in the city — and we loved every second of it.
So, what does a city break in the 'worst city to visit in the UK' involve?
As it turns out, quite a lot, actually.
Where to stay in Derby
Accommodation for our stay in Derby was provided by Holiday Inn Derby Riverlights. This central hotel serves as an excellent base for exploring what proves to be an incredibly accessible city.
Virtually every destination was no more than a ten-minute walk from the accommodation, which, true to its name, offers lovely views over the River Derwent.
The rooms were clean, modern, and stylish, with the hotel itself (like most of Derby) seemingly gearing up for vast renovations.
The hotel manager tells us that they plan to move the entirety of their food and drink offerings from the top of the building to the first floor, in a bid to offer an alfresco experience and make the hotel more of a dining and drinking location for those who aren't staying there.
Simultaneously, they plan to build new conference spaces and 27 suites on the top floor.
The hotel currently has 105 rooms and, intriguingly, offers lower prices at weekends to tempt more people into the city.
Midweek charges start at around £135, while rooms at weekends are available from £95 to £120, depending on the time of year and availability.
Activities and experiences in Derby
Our first activity was a trip to the urban garden event space, Electric Daisy.
The project involves renovating the site of a disused supermarket into a community garden – cultivating beautiful flowers and growing food, with converted horseboxes offering coffee and catering.
While there, we met the project's founder, Jamie Quince Starkey, of Down To Earth Derby, a community interest group that aims to 'bring new life to broken spaces'.
Jamie's enthusiasm is infectious. He passionately talks about how the idea for Electric Daisy came about, the difficulty of fundraising, and the support and guidance they received from the world-famous Eden Project in Cornwall. Indeed, Eden's executive vice-chair and co-founder, Tim Smit, describes Down to Earth Derby as his 'favourite project in the whole wide world'.
The space hosts events throughout the year, including DJ nights and workshops like 'Sip and Paint' events, with other plans for festivals and more. When we arrive, they're hosting Bookworms: The Kids Takeover, part of Derby Book Festival.
This is followed by a trip to the Small Print Company. Established in 2013, the company is a traditional letterpress and design studio and heritage print shop.
Chris, one of the studio's founders, discusses his keen enthusiasm for keeping traditional printing techniques alive – and how seriously he takes his role as a custodian of both the art form and the (often decades-old) equipment.
The business offers products to purchase, like gift cards, and the opportunity to participate in experiences or classes. Chris tells us that popular activities include couples making their own bespoke wedding stationery, classes in traditional printing methods for enthusiasts, and other tailor-made experiences — we're here to make our own posters, for example.
Obviously, we opt for Metro 's beloved tagline: 'News… But not as you know it' and spend an amusing hour marvelling at the delightful mix of chaos and order that is Chris' studio — as every good workshop should be.
The classes are entirely bespoke and cost about £25 each for group workshops or between £70 and £140 for one-to-one classes.
Later in our stay, we participate in another of Derby's tourist offerings – a riverboat cruise down the Derwent.
The boat tour, run by trained volunteers, involves spending about 45 minutes on Outram, Derby's zero-emission boat, powered by state-of-the-art batteries.
It offers lovely views of Derby's riverbanks and historic sites, such as St. Mary's Bridge, the 14th-century Bridge Chapel, and Darley Park.
The trip is narrated by commentary from none other than Sir David Suchet (yes, Poirot himself), who delights passengers with a mix of fascinating local river knowledge and terrible 'dad' jokes.
From April to October, the boat runs three trips a day: 12.30pm, 1.45pm, and 3pm. River boat tickets cost just £8 for adults, £6 for children, and under 3s go free, with plenty of onboard activities to amuse kids if the scenery doesn't do it for them.
However, when it comes to views, the architectural zenith of Derby is undoubtedly Derby Cathedral.
Built in the 1500s, the Cathedral's light and bright decor inside somewhat defies expectations, contrasting with its imposing Gothic exterior architecture. You may even steal a glance at the breeding pair of peregrine falcons that live on the grounds to help combat the pigeon population (and whose nests, we have learned, have their own livestream).
Derby Cathedral runs a programme of events throughout the year, and we even spy an ABBA tribute setting up and sound-checking as we arrive.
Within the Cathedral, you'll find the tomb of Bess of Hardwick, a memorial to Florence Nightingale, The Devonshire family's burial vault, the impressive wrought iron screen by Robert Bakewell, and many other delightful architectural nuances.
After a tour of the Cathedral's main space from Jess Kilmurray, head of operations, we are treated to something few get to experience – a trip up the tower.
After what feels like a million steps (actually just 82 of the tower's 189), the views from the bell ringer's room are stunning. We also get to be there as the bells ring the hour, which is quite the experience.
While entry to Derby Cathedral is free, group guided tours can be pre-arranged for £8.00 per adult and £3.00 per child.
Museums and Art Galleries in Derby
Derby offers several fascinating museums that are a budget-friendly addition to your day out, with most being free entry (but asking for a voluntary donation of around £5).
Our first museum of the trip is the Derby Museum and Art Gallery, home to the world's most extensive collection of works by the 18th-century artist Joseph Wright of Derby.
Born in 1734, Joseph Wright is known as a pioneer in the artistic treatment of industrial subjects and a famed 'painter of light', involved with many of the key intellectual minds of the Enlightenment.
We are shown around by Lucy Bamford, senior curator of fine art, who tells us that the exhibit showcases some of Wright's most famous paintings and tells the story of the artist's life, often intertwined with the tales of his works.
Even to an art novice, the tour proves to be incredibly accessible — you don't have to be the most in-depth of art critics to appreciate Wright's genius.
Finally, as part of our mission to learn more about the city itself, it would be rude not to visit the world-famous Museum of Making.
For anyone not up to speed on Derby's history, the city has a proud industrial tradition, manufacturing 'trains, planes, and automobiles' as the locals like to boast.
From Rolls Royce to Toyota and beyond, innovation and manufacturing continue to play a very active role in its economy today.
Before you even set foot in the Museum of Making, the Derby Silk Mill Factory building that houses it makes for an imposing sight, widely regarded as the world's first modern factory (but with an interesting conspiracy theory involving Italian spies that is well worth a Google).
As you enter the main lobby, a deconstructed Toyota Prius hangs above your head, and you spy a massive Rolls-Royce jet engine in the distance, suspended from the ceiling.
From the friendly and approachable staff to the interesting and engaging exhibits, the museum was, without question, one of the best parts of our Derby trip.
A particular highlight for us is that we've timed our visit to perfectly coincide with the running of the model train set on the top floor, which is delightfully wholesome.
Places to drink in Derby
One of the absolute jewels of our stay was the sheer number of quality pubs and drinking establishments Derby offers.
Throughout our first evening, Alex Rock, commercial and operations director for Derby Museums, was drafted as our guide to several of Derby's finest ale providers.
All the pubs we visit are welcoming and friendly, offering an excellent selection of cask, keg, and craft beers.
After The Exeter Arms came The Royal Standard (with an excellent terrace bar), The Silk Mill (The Exeter's sister pub), The Flowerpot (with its storied history of live music), and, last but not least, Suds & Soda (an excellent craft beer bar and bottleshop).
However, of all the pubs we visited during our stay, The Old Bell Hotel definitely takes the biscuit for its surroundings alone. The pub has a heritage stretching back over 350 years as one of the most prestigious coaching inns outside of London, making it the oldest bar, restaurant, and hotel in Derby — its Tudor room, in particular, is something to behold.
In addition to the local pubs, we also find time to stop at the newly established Wine Stories (again, on Sadler Gate).
Despite only being open for a few days when we visited, Chris and the team at Wine Stories made us feel incredibly welcome. The menu offers some fantastic wines at a great price point.
A bottle of their Romanian Solara Orange Wine (very reasonably priced at £27) turned out to be one of the most mouth-watering additions to the trip and is highly recommended to thirsty travellers.
If you're after a nightcap, it's well worth checking out a dram of the whiskey on offer here, too.
Derby's restaurants and lunch spots
One of the most damning indictments in Which? 's research was the culinary offerings in Derby. However, we soon learnt the city offers some fantastic dining choices.
Our first night in Derby featured a trip to the Exeter Arms, an award-winning local pub, where we chatted with Martin Roper – landlord, punk singer, and, as we gather, something of a local legend.
Martin is knowledgeable and eager to discuss Derby's hospitality industry. He talks keenly about how he became the landlord of the Exeter, his background in both food and punk rock, and how much he still enjoys the various pubs and restaurants that Derby offers.
Speaking of which, the food offered at the Exeter was the highest quality mix of pub classics alongside their 'principle' dishes. We tried the Pie cubed (£16.95), which, without exaggeration, might be some of the best pies I've ever had. All washed down with a pint of 'Ay Up' from the local Dancing Duck brewery — divine.
Dinner on our second night is at Lorentes, a place many locals assure us we'll love. Primarily a tapas restaurant, the business aims to use its native knowledge of Spanish cuisine and products to create authentic recipes.
The locals are right. Lorentes proves to offer some great dishes, with attentive and thoughtful service throughout.
However, it's more than evening meals that Derby proves to have an excellent offering for. Our first lunch in the city is at Omomo, a Korean street food restaurant.
Famous for everything from its 'army stew' to Korean fried chicken, we opt for a series of small plates to share (£6 each), which makes for the perfect light lunch.
Alongside the delicious food, we are introduced to the concept of 'Soju bombing', an activity that perhaps feels a little more at home at 2am than 2pm, but in the name of journalism, we stepped up to the task.
Soju is a Korean alcohol, typically made from rice or other grains.
The footage speaks for itself on this one.
Our last food stop rates just as highly as the rest — The Pepperpot Restaurant in the Nightingale Quarter, the newly developed former site of the Derbyshire Royal Infirmary.
Yet another place that opened recently, The Pepperpot is brand new for 2024, but is housed in a building over 130 years old.
However, it's not just the outside that impresses. We are led to our table in the elegant glass extension house in the back through the stylish bar area.
We opt for the Soy Braised Pig Cheek (£12.50) to start, followed by the Aubergine Parm (£17), both delicious.
We are lucky enough to steal a few moments with the head chef between service, who tells us that brunch has proved particularly popular and that they aim to regularly update the menu, using the best of local ingredients being sourced where possible, season permitting.
Derby's festivals
If you can time your city break to coincide with one of Derby's festivals, then you should have a full day's worth of activities essentially ready to go.
There's the FORMAT International Photography Festival, which usually runs from mid-March into April, was established in 2004 and has branded itself as the 'UK's leading international contemporary festival of photography and related media'.
We get to chat with Peter Bonnell, one of FORMAT Festival's directors, who tells us that the festival welcomes over 100,000 visitors from all over the world and tries to reflect the diversity represented in Derby, as well as the city's history and larger international themes.
The festival celebrates all aspects of the photographic practice, including conceptual works, participative projects, documentary photography, and more.
Other festivals mentioned by some locals are Derby Festé, a large arts festival that sees international touring artists put on both daytime and evening performances, and the Folk Festival, made up of concerts and events throughout the city.
Shopping in Derby
Despite some complaints from locals that visitors never seem to make it past Primark and the high-street shops, independent shopping in Derby seems alive and well.
We head to the Strand Arcade, where the first local business we visit is Foulds Guitars. Foulds was established in 1893 and opened a store on Irongate in Derby in 1908.
We chatted with Jason Marshall, who bought the business in 2019 and told us about the struggles many independent businesses faced during the Covid lockdowns.
Doing everything from retail to repairs and customisation work, Jason delights in showing us around the shows three showrooms full of hundreds of guitars, amps and various gear, as well as taking us into the teaching room and for a sneak peak at his workshop.
Later in our trip, we head to Sadler Gate, one of the city's best areas for independent shopping, events, food, and drink.
We speak to Paul Hurst, a local business investor, who tells us about Sadler Gate's long-standing reputation for both daytime and nighttime trade, saying, 'I just love it. I love this part of the city.'
'Back in my day', Paul goes on to say, 'It was the place to come and get your clothes – you were here in the day getting all your gear – and then you were out at night in all the bars and restaurants, and it's kind of kept that.'
He heaps praise on local independent fashion businesses like family-owned Canopy and 80s Casual Classics, as well as Milk and Honey Deli, and more.
Nowadays, Paul helps to organise events and arrange collaborations with all the local businesses in the area – including the 'Night Market', celebrations of Rolls Royce in Derby, and Halloween events (including plans for the world's biggest gathering of Draculas to celebrate the Count's first-ever appearance on stage performance, which took place at The Grand Theatre in Derby).
Live music in Derby
Derby's live music scene took something of a hit when the famous Assembly Rooms venue was hit by fire in 2014. However, in keeping with the rest of the city, there are now enormous plans for development.
Derby City Council leader Nadine Peatfield (speaking to the BBC) has billed the new 3,500-capacity Becketwell Arena as a 'game changer for the city', and it sounds like it's going to be needed, as Derby has a strong appetite for live music.
Jason of Foulds Guitars first told us just how many talented musicians there are in the city. While Derby has a particular history with punk rock, all kinds of acts regularly perform there.
Eager to see this firsthand, we spent the evening at Dubrek Studios, a 100-capacity performance space. There, we met Jay Dean, who gave a brilliant tour of the venue and its recording and rehearsal facilities, before we attended Septum Funk, an event where Zimbabwean-born Midlands-based DJ/Producer Yahuru made his Dubrek debut.
It's as part of the Septum lineup that we catch the amazing Oskarcw0 (gaslitbyoskar), who is freestyling over the music of Tokamak, a jazz/funk band that uses a 'language' of 150 hand signs to guide their musicians through a completely improvised performance.
The gig is fantastic, with the crowd clearly loving every second of it. Catching a gig as part of your city break would be an excellent suggestion, so it'd be worth checking the listings of places like Dubrek, The Hairy Dog, or The Flowerpot.
Derby's development
One thing that becomes obvious as we learn more and more about the city of Derby is that it is constantly evolving.
The city has vast plans for regeneration, with millions of pounds earmarked for the development.
On our first day, we met with several of the city's stakeholders at Nixon Coffee, a delightful independent coffee shop owned by businessman and local property developer Jai Sandhu.
With Frank Sinatra crooning out a few classics in the background as we enter, Nixon proves to be a fabulous coffee spot with a gorgeous vintage aesthetic that honours the building's legacy as 'Nixon Jeans' – one of two shops that originally stocked Levi's Jeans in the UK.
Jai discusses how his company plans to open other businesses in the area, including an Indian restaurant, hoping to take advantage of the Becketwell Arena development situated at the end of the street.
However, he's far from the only business looking to make the most of new opportunities in Derby.
Derby's stunning Victorian Market Hall is undergoing a significant transformation that aims to combine the best of the region's independent shopping, eating, drinking, and entertainment.
We get a sneak peek inside the venue courtesy of Robbie Kerr, the project's lead.
All the exciting changes will take place under its soon-to-be-restored cast iron, copper and glass roof, designed by Rowland Mason Ordish (who also worked on St Pancras station in London).
The new-look market is bound to make for an exciting visit if your city break coincides with the launch.
The market's development, in many ways, encapsulates much of what we find in Derby – a thriving community of lovely people who are passionate about their city's history and its exciting plans for the future.
This article was originally published on 3 November 2024.