Wild flavours and rugged charm at Perthshire's Old Manse of Blair

The Courier

23-04-2025

When a restaurant leaves you dreaming about your next visit before you've even digested your last meal, it's doing something right – and for me, that place is the Old Manse of Blair.
Set in the rolling beauty of Highland Perthshire, I'd been looking for an excuse to return since my last visit, and Mother's Day provided the perfect one.
The journey there was as much a part of the experience as the meal itself. We set off from Fife, taking our time and soaking in the spring sunshine.
A nostalgic pitstop at Killiecrankie – a place rich with childhood memories of squirrel-spotting and Jacobite tales – brought a charming start to the day.
After a cuppa at the visitor centre café, we wound our way up to Blair Atholl, where the Old Manse of Blair awaited us for a 2pm booking.
Approaching the Old Manse of Blair, which was recently added to the Michelin Guide 2025, feels like arriving at a country estate from a bygone era. Surrounded by peaceful hills, ancient forests, and fronted by a field of gorgeous Highland cows, it's a scene straight from a postcard.
Birds flitted overhead as we stepped inside the beautifully restored building – a labour of love that has retained all its stately character while offering modern comfort and elegance.
It was great to return under the culinary leadership of Scott Davies, formerly of the celebrated Three Chimneys on Skye. I'd interviewed Scott last year, and I still remembered the dish he served – a smoked salmon creation with an unforgettable forest tea.
To my delight, it was on the Mother's Day menu, and I couldn't wait for my mum – a former chef herself – to try it.
We were seated in the airy orangery, a stunning space that bridges the indoor luxury and the wild outdoors. We toasted with glasses of excellent champagne, befitting the occasion.
Then came the dish I'd been waiting for: hot and cold smoked salmon, delicately presented with Jerusalem artichoke, radish, spruce oil, and that incredible forest tea – now served in its own little whisky glass rather than poured on the fish.
The tea, more of a rich and fragrant broth than anything leafy, had the depth of a meat stock without a trace of meat. Its umami warmth came from foraged mushrooms, bringing the very soul of the forest into the glass.
It was both sophisticated and deeply comforting – a genuine highlight of the meal.
Even the bread course stood out. As someone who's gluten-free, I'm used to the usual sad freezer fare, but here? I was served what seemed to be freshly baked gluten-free bread, paired with a heavenly mushroom and miso butter.
My mum had the Wasted Degrees amber rye sourdough, made with local beer, and also raved about it. When even the butter is a conversation starter, you know you're in good hands.
For mains, I chose the North Sea roasted cod, which came with purple sprouting broccoli, charred cucumber, almonds, sweet pickled onion, fermented chilli sauce, and dill oil.
The fish was perfectly cooked – fresh, flaky, and so soft it barely needed a knife. The fermented chilli brought a gentle hum of heat, balanced by delicious vegetables and aromatic oil.
Mum opted for a trio of hogget – rump, belly, and rib – paired with mint hedgerow ketchup, elderberry sauce, and wild herb pesto.
The portion was so generous she ended up taking some home, but not before thoroughly enjoying the beautifully cooked, wonderfully flavoured meat and its lively accompaniments.
The staff were another highlight. The maître d' and waiter were knowledgeable, relaxed, and full of good humour. Despite the fine-dining calibre of the meal, the atmosphere was unpretentious and warm.
For dessert, I chose the decadent Maranon 70% chocolate tart (which they gladly made gluten-free), topped with hazelnut crumble, praline, and the dreamiest double milk ice cream. Rich, indulgent, but not overwhelming – it was a perfect finale.
Mum's dessert was a theatrical event: a parcel of forced rhubarb delights, hiding sponge, ginger beer and sorbet, all tied together with hay-smoked custard and chilli sugar. Each spoonful revealed a new texture or taste.
After our meal, we explored the drawing rooms of the Old Manse. Each space is tastefully decorated with bold artwork, plush furnishings, and splashes of colour that speak of contemporary luxury within a historic shell.
We found a piano in one room where Mum played the one tune she knows.
Outside, we wandered the grounds in the spring sunshine, greeting the Highland cows before heading off.
It was the kind of day that lingers with you – a perfect blend of food, family, and the unique charm of Highland hospitality.
There's also the enticing option to stay overnight at the Old Manse, which offers boutique rooms and other accommodation options across the estate.
It's the sort of place that beckons for a summer return – long days, wild walks, and more of Scott Davies' culinary wizardry.
For £65 each I thought the price was worth the wonderful food and the stunning setting.
I'd encourage anyone who enjoys an innovative and delicious meal to take the beautiful drive to The Old Manse of Blair.
You can also arrange to be collected from Blair Atholl train station by contacting the hotel – or even better, stay the night!
Address: Blair Atholl, PH18 5TN
Telephone: [phone]
Website: https://theoldmanseofblair.com/
Price: £65 each for 3 courses plus bread
Accessible: Yes
Dog Friendly: In some areas
Food: 5/5
Service: 5/5
Surroundings: 5/5