Kolhapuri slip: Luxury houses need to grasp India's domestic sensibilities

Mint

4 days ago

Retailing for as little as $10, India's beloved Kolhapuri sandals are a staple in wardrobes across the sub-continent. So, when global luxury brand Prada debuted a new type of footwear at Milan Fashion Week that bore a stark resemblance to them, it didn't take long for fury to build online.
The saga underscores how much power the South Asian giant's digital tribe holds, where online outrage regularly influences public debate—especially when citizens perceive their heritage as under attack. International firms eyeing one of the world's fastest-growing markets should weigh the risks of such cultural missteps.
The Italian fashion house's troubles began when it introduced its menswear collection in June. The sandals, described as 'leather footwear," displayed an open-toe braided pattern that was strikingly similar to Kolhapuri sandals made in the Indian states of Maharashtra and Karnataka. (Your columnist has several pairs of Kolhapuris in her wardrobe.)
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Historically, the sandals were produced for specific communities. For farmers who worked in the fields, they were robust and able to withstand wear-and-tear; for the courtier class and nobles, they were more delicate and ostentatious. In 2019, the footwear was awarded Geographical Indication status, viewed as a mark of authenticity. Other Indian items to have received this tag include Darjeeling tea and Alphonso mangoes.
But Prada did not credit India for the designs, prompting a brutal social media backlash. The nationalistic sentiment whipped up by this controversy boosted sales of the traditional sandals. India's online community accused the brand of cultural appropriation and the furore forced the fashion house into damage-control mode. It issued a statement saying it recognized the sandals were inspired by traditional Indian footwear.
The luxury brand's experience is a reminder that in India, foreign firms have to be aware of how reputational risk could affect future revenue. Internet penetration is rising, with 55% of the population connected. Social media is growing fast, too: It's estimated to be home to 462 million social media users.
India is a rising global power, one that international brands are keen to break into. But local and foreign firms face challenges: Bureaucracy, shoddy infrastructure and unique consumer behaviours that include a fierce defence of India's rich heritage. All these factors call for a sensitive approach.
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Success in the market lies in the ability to balance local authenticity and global appeal—and the willingness to 'learn to love and speak to India," as Francois Grouiller, chief executive officer of the luxury consultancy IndLux recently noted.
Foreign brands can't afford to ignore India's luxury market, which reached $7.74 billion in 2023 and is projected to approach $12 billion by 2028. Other estimates predict the sector could more than triple by 2030, growing to upward of $85 billion. The number of ultra-high-net-worth individuals—people with a net worth of at least $30 million—is expected to grow 50% by 2028.
These forecasts come with the obvious caveats—most notably, there is still a huge wealth gap in the country. While India's 100 million wealthiest folks are splurging, 400 million of their middle-class counterparts have cut back. Global economic conditions are less supportive, as US President Donald Trump's tariffs fuel trade tensions and put pressure on future growth.
Still, viewing consumers as a long-term opportunity rather than just a short-term play would help these firms thrive. Even more important is understanding that India is home to a diverse market with distinct needs. Some brands have grasped this already—high-end jeweller Bulgari offers a pricey Mangalsutra necklace inspired by a chain traditionally worn by married women—tapping into the desire for luxury with home-grown sensibilities.
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The Italian brand is not the first—and neither will it be the last—to fall afoul of cultural norms. Earlier this year, Gucci made the mistake of calling Alia Bhatt's custom-made sari-lehenga a gown. Another online frenzy was set off in May, when a viral trend was criticized for calling the dupatta a Scandinavian scarf.
Prada doesn't own retail stores in India, depending instead on the super-rich diaspora and wealthy Indians who travel overseas. But the firm—whose shares have lost about 30% since February as investors took fright at its Versace purchase—isn't taking chances. In a conciliatory move, it's now working with traditional artisans to understand the history of Kolhapuris.
Prada has learnt the hard way that cultural fluency is no longer a 'nice to have'—it's central to survival. ©Bloomberg
The author is a Bloomberg Opinion columnist covering Asia politics with a special focus on China.