Victoria Street Market: the resilient heart of Durban's trading heritage
Image: Leon Lestrade
Situated in Durban Central, it originally started as an Indian Market and was intended to provide for the needs of the Indian community. It was built by the Durban Town Council in 1910 and was eventually gutted by fire in 1973.
It then officially reopened in July 1990, making the market appealing to tourists due to its infrastructure. The price of stalls depends on whether the market vendor owns the store or rents it by size from the city.
Nandha Pillay, 75, from Unit 13 in Phoenix, has been working at the market since he was 18 years old.
'At the time, I lived in Chatsworth with my sister. She asked a neighbour to help find me a job. After a few days, I went to the market with him and ended up working for him and his family for 25 years until I opened my own shop," said Pillay.
The shop was called Pillay's Curious.
'Because of that shop, I built a beautiful house and my three daughters are now educated. One has her PhD in science, another is a teacher and the third is in human resources.'
But he has had to adapt to a changing economy over the years.
'I had three shops with 10 employees but I had to downsize due to financial issues 10 years ago," said Pillay, a tenant on the property.
He said people often browsed but hardly bought anything, or they were afraid to go to the market as they believed it was unsafe. In addition, the infrastructure was crumbling.
'The roof is falling apart. When it rains, the shops flood and the merchandise gets damaged."
Pillay said another challenge was that other venues, including hotels, also sold curios, or they were sold illegally on the roadsides.
"Today, I have to reduce the prices to make some money. It's cut-throat but I still love my job. I have learnt to speak French, German, Italian, a little bit of everything, to converse with some of the international groups who used to come to the market."
Lolly Maharaj.
Image: Leon Lestrade
Lolly Maharaj, 65, from Durban North, opened an Indian clothing shop 35 years ago after her husband died and she needed to provide for her two sons.
'I needed an income, so I started travelling to India and Thailand and returned with clothing to sell. My husband was a businessman, so he taught me all that I needed to know. He used to say that if he died, I should use the business skills he taught me to open my own shop to support our children."
The store, she said, did well during its prime.
She was able to send her sons to university and they are now "financially stable and living good lives".
Then Covid-19 hit.
'And the customers just dropped. My shop is doing badly. No one can afford to buy in this economy and those who supported me have either passed on or forgotten about me. I do not break even. I go home many days without making any money.
"If I get a buyer, I will sell my shop with all the stock, sell my house, and live with my son in Cape Town. I am older and tired now. Even though I know I will get bored not working, I want to live an easier life with my husband and sons."
Sanusha Moodliar Ponen.
Image: Leon Lestrade
Sanusha Moodliar Ponen, 48, the owner of Thirupathi Spices, is the third generation of spice merchants in her family. She joined the business at age 17.
'I am a qualified teacher. My father did not have sons, so, as the eldest of four children, I took over the business," said Moodliar Ponen, of Essenwood.
Her grandfather, Thirupath Moodliar Ponen, started the business 50 years ago. He initially sold groceries, like flour, sugar, oil and other household items.
"My dad, Apadori Moodliar Ponen, then took over and introduced spices, which he blended. He also created instant breyani rice. Then I came in and introduced spiritual items."
The original shop, she said, was called RA Moodliar but she renamed it Thirupathi Spices. She was unsure if her children would take over one day.
Moodliar Ponen loved meeting people and said her shop continued to do well.
'Despite the Covid-19 pandemic, we are doing well. After Covid-19, we are surviving. It's not about just selling a product, it's about how you make someone feel. That's the most important thing. We also advise them on spice blends and how to prepare the foods. They leave happy."
She imports some items but said the best chilies come from South Africa.
'I blend my own spices and supply other stores with spice mixes. The spices are so good because we have the best chillies. All in all, despite some of the damage to the market, there is a good vibe. There is a lot of beautiful art and lots of things on offer. It is different from being in a normal shopping centre. Everyone should experience our market at least once."
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