Wine with Leslie: Keep it in the family with these wine selections

Irish Examiner

11-07-2025

With all the romance and, let's be honest, pretensions that have become associated with wine, it is important to remember that it is an agricultural product made by women and men in mucky boots.
A vigneron in Valencia has more in common with a winter barley grower in Tipperary than they would ever have with an urbanite like me.
Wines today are from three family estates, all using amphora and minimum-intervention winemaking.
Up first is a fine example of modern Spain that ironically uses ancient grapes and techniques.
Bodegas del Roure is at 600m elevation in Valencia DO and Pablo Calatuyud and his father are reviving old Valencian varieties such as Mando, Arcos and Verdil.
When I visited a few years ago I was thrilled to see a field full of recently delivered amphora and to see the restored horse-shoe cellar with amphora sunk into the earth (worth a Google).
Maria Barrena and her husband, Josep, farm organically in Penedés and make excellent PetNat and skin contact wines from vines grown at 300-350m in Penedés within sight of the Mediterranean.
As expected in this region, they grow Xarello, Macabeu and Parallada plus Chardonnay, with a new importer (GrapeCircus) for Entre Vinyes expect to see them in your local wine bar.
Maria is also winemaker at Navarra's Azul y Garanza (Bubble Brothers) which I also love.
The Hubert family have been making wine in Blaye since 1895 from their beautiful chateau, parts of which date from the 17th century.
Biodynamic since 2000 (since Rachel Hubert took over the estate), and using wild yeasts and occasionally amphora ageing which aids texture and complexity.
Their importer, Mary Pawle ([e-mail]) has retired, but has some decent stocks of Peybonhomme should anyone want a case or two; they are looking for new representation.
Celler del Roure 'Vermell', Valencia, Spain, €19-20
Celler del Roure 'Vermell', Valencia, Spain, €19-20
MacCurtain Wine Cellar; Jus De Vine; Wicklow Wine Co.; baggotstreetwines.com; theallotment.ie; independents.
Family owned producer farming organically with extensive use of amphora and minimum intervention winemaking, making modern Spanish classics.
Made from Garnacha Tintorera (Alicante Bouschet) and local grape Mando which they are actively reviving.
Lively light and tangy, almost ethereal in style, with cherry-strawberry fruits and a delightful crunchy freshness, serve cool.
Entre Vinyes Oníric Xarel-lo Brisat, Penedés, Spain, €20-21
Entre Vinyes Oníric Xarel-lo Brisat, Penedés, Spain, €20-21
Organico; Quay Co-Op; MacCurtain Wine Cellar; Mannings; Little Green Grocer; Urru; Sheridans
Primarily from vines planted in the 1940s and 50s on a family run estate. Skin contact fermentation, natural yeasts and aged in amphora on lees for 6 months which accounts for its gorgeous layered textures.
Aromas of lemon, tangerine and peach, zesty lemon and apple on the palate, textured and complex with tannic skin and cream soda combined. Delicious.
Château Peybonhomme-Les-Tours, Vin de France 'Cuvee des 2C', €26-27
Château Peybonhomme-Les-Tours, Vin de France 'Cuvee des 2C', €26-27
Manning's Emporium; Scally's SuperValu and The Olive Branch Clonakilty
Peybonnehomme is based in Blaye (Bordeaux) and were pioneers in organic and biodynamic viticulture, their wines are always interesting - watch for amphora aged 'Energies' (Mannings, Little Green Grocer).
An atypical blend of Syrah (50%), Touriga Nacional (25%), Malbec & Merlot with no added sulphur; lush, juicy red and dark plum fruits with a velvety texture and some crunch. Serve cool.
Spirit of the week
Keepers Heart 10 Year Old Irish Single Malt, 43% ABV, €99.95
Keepers Heart 10 Year Old Irish Single Malt, 43% ABV, €99.95
Bradleys; Celtic Whiskey; Mitchell's; Wine Centre; Shannon Airport; winesoftheworld.ie
The first age-statement malt from Keeper's Heart, voted best Irish Whiskey in San Francisco in 2023.
Aged 10 years in Bourbon and finished in Malaga casks.
Apricot, lemon and honey aromas, smooth on the palate with dried fruits, lemon barley and hot honey notes with pepper and spices on the finish. Long and satisfying.