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Irish Examiner
16-05-2025
- Climate
- Irish Examiner
Wine with Leslie: It's a myth that red wine has to be room temperature — here's how to chill it
Dare we dream that the sunny weather might last into June? Let's hope so. I presume you had the barbecue out over the bank holiday weekend, I certainly did. Marinated spicy pork chops and ribs were the main course I cooked and they worked well with light red wines served chilled. I served two of the wines featured below, the Ciello Rosso and the Il Casolare, both fine examples of juicy organic wine and both of which I served lightly chilled. Not at fridge temperature of 5 degrees which would be a little too cold and would dull the flavours, but somewhere closer to 9 or 10 degrees. The cooler temperature brought out the dark fruit notes and allowed the wine to cope better with the chilli peppers and paprika in my marinade. I know some people reading this will think surely red wine should always be served at room temperature but this is in fact a myth that dates from a time before central heating. Certainly most fine red wines should be served at somewhere around 16˚C (some prefer closer to 18˚C), but no wine should be served at 23 or 25 degrees, which is the temperature of many of our houses these days. Natural wines made with zero or low sulphur are best served cool or even chilled, and many natural wine bars will offer this option. I know that L'Atitude 51, MacCurtain Wine Cellar and Franks in Dublin generally have at least one red chilled (all of them in the case of Franks). So, my suggestions this week are all relatively affordable and include the two Italians mentioned above and an Austrian red I have not featured before from Judith Beck, one of the women at the forefront of the natural and biodynamic movement in Austria (and thus the world). Cantine Rallo Ciello Rosso, Nero d'Avola, Sicily, €15 Ciello Rosso (and its peachy, zesty sister Ciello Bianco) is some of the best value organic wine in the country. This is from organic Nero d'Avola picked at night to ensure freshness and is perfumed and fruity with dark red berry fruits and touches of liquorice and chocolate. Serve cool. JJ O'Driscolls; L'Atitude 51; Green Man; World Wide Wines; Baggot St. Wines; Redmonds; Il Casolare Rosso Piceno, Fattoria San Lorenzo, Marche, €17 This was served at the MacCurtain St Long Table event last August and I tasted it again recently so felt I should remind you about it. Made from 50-50 Sangiovese-Montepulciano, organic and biodynamic with ripe strawberry fruits mixed with darker plum fruits and lovely purity. Once again, best served a little cool. MacCurtain Wine Cellar; Lettercollum Kitchen; Sheridans Galway and Dublin, Mitchells, Judith Beck INK, Burgenland, Austria, €21 Austrian reds are great for warm weather as they are lower in alcohol and work great served fresh. This is from a biodynamic vineyard and a blend of 80% Zweigelt and 20% St. Laurent; bright juicy and zippy with a supple texture and lots of plum and cooked strawberry fruits mingling with herbal freshness. Beer of the week: DOT Brew Cold IPA 4% ABV, 440ml, €2.49 DOT Brew's Shane Kelly described this as 'the point where lager meets American IPA' and this is a very fair description. Pouring a light gold with a touch of haze, this has floral citrus aromas, a bright crisp palate and lingering lemon and tangerine flavours with some bitter hop notes. Perfect for warm days. Aldi exclusive
Irish Examiner
02-05-2025
- Lifestyle
- Irish Examiner
Wine with Leslie: These are my favourite rosés to enjoy this season, including a €9 bottle
Summertime. Don't mind those meteorologists that tell you summer starts in June. In Ireland it starts on Bealtaine, May 1, or at worst, on the May Bank Holiday Weekend. Bealtaine marks the end of spring and the start of summer, and traditionally involved bonfires, fertility rituals, dancing and craic. In the wine world, if you get good weather in May, and especially around the bank holiday, it is also the start of rosé season. I'm that weirdo who drinks rosé all year round but I do inevitably drink more in summertime. I'm writing this a few weeks in advance so if the warm weather hasn't shown up don't forget that rosé is a fine match for barbecued, spicy food (especially Thai and Vietnamese), and for the anchovy garlicky flavours as found in Provençal cooking. A punchy aïoli, or better still an anchovy-garlic rich anchoïade or a Piedmont bagna cauda are all good matches for rosé. Have some crusty bread or crudités for dipping or serve it on the side with shellfish. Prawns and lobster work with rosé, the colour association seems to enhance the match somehow, and wild salmon is in season from May 12th should you be lucky enough to know a fisherman or a good fishmonger. My final food suggestion for rosé is fried chicken, especially for richer rosé such as those from Spain and New Zealand. My rosé suggestions below cover different price ranges and include a pet-nat, but if you really want to push the boat out try to find a Bandol such as Domaine Ott or better still Domaine Tempier (Mitchells have it for €40), Bandol rosé ages well so don't be afraid of older wines. Rosé Champagne or Crémant is always a good choice for barbecue, and if you spot a tangy dry Tavel from the Rhône, snap it up. Le Petit Poulet Rosé, Rhône, France €8.99 Aldi have a few new rosé in stores for summer. This was the bargain of the bunch for me with candied red fruits and a touch of herbal complexity and a crisp finish. Also due in stores this month is Isla Blanca Spanish Rosé (€9.99) which was my favourite in the Aldi tasting, and Sainte Victoire Provence Rosé (€13) which is not unlike a certain low talking angelic rosé you may have heard about… Aldi Folias de Baco, Uivo PT NatRosé, Portugal €24-25 From Tiago Sampaio who grew up in the Douro and created Folias de Baco in 2007 after taking over his grandfather's vineyard. MacCurtain Wine Cellar also stock Uivo's lively still rosé (€20) but if you haven't already, you should try their PetNat - yeasty raspberry aromas and flavours, bone dry and perfect for a bank holiday heralding the summer. MacCurtain Wine Cellar; 64 Wines; Green Man; Baggot St.; Minuty M Rosé, Provence, France €24 Minuty have just launched a limited edition version of their 'M' entry level rosé designed by Australian abstract artist Elliot Routledge. The family run estate is near St. Tropez (LVMH holds a majority stake) and their rosés are classy and tasty if expensive. Very pale pink with raspberry and floral aromas, a juicy crisp palate with texture and a pleasing tang of salty citrus. JJ O'Driscolls; Basil; Corkscrew; Redmonds; Deveneys; Independents. Spirit of the week: Glendalough Peated Pot Still Whiskey, 46% ABV, 70cl €70 This is a limited edition made from (peated) malt and unmalted barley, first aged in ex-bourbon and then four years in virgin oak casks from Wicklow. Dark gold, almost mahogany colour, peat smoke and caramel aromas, luscious toffee apple and spice on the palate followed by pepper and clove and a delicious lingering nuttiness. A contender for whiskey of the year. Celtic Whiskey Shop; Blackrock Cellar;
