Daftar review: I tried the 'VIP kulcha' beloved of Narendra Modi at this new Indian restaurant in Dubai

The National

a day ago

Sometimes the clue is in the name. Such is the case with Daftar, which loosely translates to 'office' in Hindi and Urdu.
The DIFC restaurant, which opened in January, has the potential to become something of a star in the emirate's financial centre, given it offers high-quality fare in a relaxed setting, perfect for those on business and those entertaining.
This aesthetic is highlighted further by its location in Al Fattan Currency House, known for its swanky offices, and so it immediately gives a commercial feel. So much so that you can be forgiven for thinking you're seeking out a meal in the wrong building.
One lift journey to the mezzanine floor, though, dispels any feeling that Daftar is only there to fuel local office staff. Inspired by the hustle and bustle of office culture it might be, but this is a venue with heart, soul and a fierce passion for the Indian flavours it promotes.
Where to sit and what to expect
On arrival at Daftar, my dining partner and I are shown to a plush corner table by our server, Dilmi.
The restaurant is cosy and intimate with warm wood flooring and jewel-toned seating. There are a variety of dining tables, with both sofas and high-backed chairs available.
It gives it a homely feel, which is amplified by the friendliness of the staff including head chef Sagar Kalra, who is keen to personally recommend his favourite dishes for us to try.
The menu
A common 'problem' at Indian restaurants is a feeling that you are spoilt for choice. That is certainly true of Daftar's menu. With the help of Dilmi, my dining partner and I try to pick a selection of house classics so we get to grips with the most authentic version of what this venue has to offer.
We share the mushroom and truffle galouti (Dh75) and Himalayan jhol momo (Dh65) to start. While the mushroom has an exquisite velvety texture, it's the momo, a dish that traces its origins to the streets of Nepal, which steals the show. The steamed dumpling is filled with aromatic mince and served alongside Himalayan pink pepper curry.
Packed with flavour, it's an exquisite blend of the quiet sophistication one finds in a high-class restaurant while also offering that ever-craved comfort food feeling.
Next on our feast-like meal are servings of butter chicken with pickled onions (Dh90), dal makhani (Dh75), steamed rice (Dh25) and a basket of chef Kalra's special VIP kulcha (Dh40).
Butter chicken is a staple in any north Indian restaurant in the UAE, and it doesn't fail to deliver at Daftar, either. The chicken is succulent and the sauce offers more of a fiery spice than I have come to expect from this dish, which makes it stand out.
The dal makhani adds the perfect ballast to the warmth of the curry.
That said, the piece de resistance is the VIP kulcha. Chef Kalra tells us he once served Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi, and a number of other senior dignitaries, this dish during his time as a chef in New Delhi. It's easy to see why, as the bread's subtlety, cooked in a tandoor oven, is mixed wonderfully with a lavish sprinkling of herbs and spices, adding a touch of elegance to the curry and dal.
For dessert, we share servings of kesari moong dal halwa with saffron and clarified butter (Dh50), and orange quinoa kheer pudding (Dh55).
Both are deliciously rich and yet equally light, with intricate spices paying homage to the restaurant's Indian roots, and serving as an ideal palate cleanser to round off an excellent dinner.
Save or splurge
A three-course meal at Daftar can cost between Dh125 and Dh400.
On the high end of the price spectrum lie the bottle masala lamb chops (Dh125), lobster malai curry (Dh225) and jalebi rabri (Dh50).
The three most reasonable dishes across starters, mains and desserts are Bombay vada pav (Dh35), aloo gobi (Dh55) and kulfi selection (Dh35).
A chat with the chef
The man in the hot seat at Daftar is chef Kalra, from New Delhi. His culinary journey began as a trainee with the Taj Group, which he credits for his learning of the foundations of cooking, and he has also worked with names such as Anil Khurana and Gaggan Anand.
Kalra says kaffir lime leaves are his all-time favourite ingredient to cook with. 'There's a brightness and depth to them that I find incredibly inspiring,' he says. 'Just a sprinkle of this, and you'll know why I'm obsessed.
'My cooking philosophy has evolved over time, and I've realised that food is not about comparison but connection. For me, it's about evoking memories, emotions and stories – one dish at a time. When you cook from the heart, with respect for your ingredients and intention behind every plate, you'll never go wrong,' he adds.
In addition to the dishes we tried, his top recommendations are fried chicken with kaffir lime masala for meat eaters; tawa fish for seafood lovers; and white quinoa kheer for those with a sweet tooth. Vegan diners, meanwhile, can sample the brownie sorbet.
Daftar is at Al Fattan Currency House in the Dubai International Financial Centre. It is open daily from 11am to midnight. Reservations can be made by calling 050 666 4158.