I love this fairytale-esque UK beach town that isn't actually on the sea – and tourists always forget about it

Scottish Sun

a day ago

Read on to find out about the best spots to explore in the town
HIDDEN GEM I love this fairytale-esque UK beach town that isn't actually on the sea – and tourists always forget about it
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TUCKED away from Devon's coastline is one of the county's most beautiful towns, with wonky old buildings, quaint streets and fortified castles.
Forget the tourists, it's even a day trip for the locals - as a born and bred Devonian, a day out in Dartmouth was always a treat for me, despite only living 30 minutes from the waterfront town.
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Dartmouth oozes warm, fairytale charm, with a warren of winding lanes and cobbled streets that are lined with multi-coloured higgledy-piggledy cottages
Credit: Getty
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Dartmouth is a waterfront town sitting on the banks of the River Dart
Credit: Getty
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But despite its beauty and charm, Dartmouth is often overlooked by neighbouring seaside towns and resorts like Torquay or Salcombe each summer.
That's a mistake, it's just as good and considerably quieter in peak season, and even though the town isn't technically on the sea it still has its own beach.
The town oozes warm, fairytale charm - it's picture perfect, with no graffiti and a warren of winding lanes and cobbled streets, lined with multi-coloured higgledy-piggledy cottages.
Sat on the banks of the River Dart, its estuary position makes it a great spot for boat trips, such as The Fizz Boat that cruises on the river for 90 minutes with fizz constantly flowing for guests.
And you can still take a bucket and spade to either Castle Cove or Sugary Cove.
Castle Cove is a small sand and shingle beach that can only be accessed at low tide.
The spot boasts stunning views of Dartmouth Castle, that towers above the beach and where visitors can also find the Dartmouth Castle Tea Rooms for a tapas board, locally-caught crab sandwich or traditional Devonshire cream tea.
Over at Sugary Cove - a favoured spot among locals - the shingle beach is edged by rugged cliffs and thick greenery.
You have to head down some pretty steep steps to reach the shoreline, which is why it usually uncrowded and the ideal place to spot some of the local wildlife such as seals and if you're lucky, dolphins.
Across the town there are number of historic spots to explore, including Dartmouth Castle, which has stood guarding the town for over 600 years.
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Inside, for £10 visitors can find a Gun Tower and winding passages that give a glimpse at what life was like in the castle during the Hundred Years War, where it was used to protect the entrance to the River Dart from French invasion.
The castle links to the town's naval history as well, which remains crucial to the destination today.
At the other end of Dartmouth is the Britannia Royal Naval College where Royal Navy officers are still trained.
Visitors can opt to go on a two-hour guided tour with a resident naval officer to learn about its 150-year history including a visit to the elegant chapel and even the Gun Room.
The destination was recently awarded a TripAdvisor Traveller's Choice Award 2025, with one visitor recently commenting that it is "a must see for anyone visiting Dartmouth".
Tours of the only remaining Naval College in the entire country can be booked online and cost £20 per adult and £12.50 per child.
In the town centre itself, I have fond memories of the many amazing markets including Dartmouth Old Market, which takes place each Friday with local produce and independent makers.
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Whilst it technically does not sit on the sea and instead on an estuary, it still has a couple of coves
Credit: Getty
The market was originally built as a 'pannier' market in 1828 - a type of indoor market originating in Devon and involved 'panniers', or baskets, to transport goods such as meats and cheeses.
Every second Saturday of the month there is also the Dartmouth Good Food and Artisan Market, selling specialist produce like Dartmoor honey and locally-baked sourdough bread.
Away from the markets, make sure to head to the town's independent shops and galleries, especially on Duke Street, famous for the Butterwalk building that has a sloping appearance and intricate black and white facade.
It is opposite this building that you will find one of the most popular dining spots in the town - Embankment Bistro.
The bistro is ideally located with views of the harbour on one side and the estuary on the other and sells some rather fancy fish and chips for £19 a portion.
Though, if you want a cheaper option and happen to be in the town on a Tuesday, head slightly further along the promenade and you will reach a personal favourite of mine called Rockfish, where you can grab a portion of fish and chips for 50 per cent off.
For a sweet treat, you will find numerous ice cream spots and places to grab a traditional Devonshire jam and cream scone, but one of the best is Dudley's - a cafe that serves cream teas along the promenade.
The bistro and Rockfish are also conveniently located next to where visitors can catch the passenger ferry across to Kingswear, a picturesque village with pastel houses, a steam railway and Agatha Christie's holiday home, Greenway House.
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And in the town itself there is a lot of history including fortified castles
Credit: Alamy
One of the best free things to do in the town - especially with kids - is to walk along the water's edge.
The water is always crystal clear and many times I would catch glimpse of silver fish skirting about close to the wall.
As you walk along away from the harbour, you will reach English Heritage's Tudor fort called Bayard's Cove Fort, built between 1522 and 1536.
The fort used to house many heavy guns to protect the harbour from attack, but today stands as a ruin, free to visit.
The thick stone walls and 11 gunports looking out over the water always provided the perfect spot for my imagination to run wild as a child.
Between August 23 and 30, the 180th Dartmouth Royal Regatta takes place with sailing and rowing races, a 'Family Fun' weekend with a dog show and live music, a fire walk across burning coals and a fireworks display.
Also on August 30, visitors can catch a glimpse of the Waverly - the world's last seagoing paddle steamer.
Eventgoers can explore the 1946 steamer, including visiting the engine room and watching the paddles twist and turn through portholes, or take afternoon tea in the Dining Saloon.
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The shops feature independent sellers and exciting galleries
Credit: Alamy
If you fancy staying in the town, there are plenty for self-catered holiday cottages, such as Dart Valley Cottages that offer a range of water view homes.
There are a few ways of reaching Dartmouth.
You could hop on the train to Kingswear, before catching a passenger ferry for £5 return across the estuary to Dartmouth.
Or if you are driving, you can head directly into the town or catch the car ferry from Kingswear for £14 return, which tends to be quicker.
And if you do opt to stay in the town, but wish to explore the surrounding area, 10 minutes down the road is Blackpool Sands - an expansive Blue Flag beach on the South West Coastal Path.
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