Former Malaika leading lady Tshedi Mholo on education, new music and African pride
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News24
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Africa's Dandy legacy - From migrant workers to Sunday best
If you've been paying attention to fashion, you've likely heard of Dandyism – a style movement making bold statements in tailored silhouettes and cultural storytelling. While the term isn't entirely new, it sparked renewed interest after the 2025 Met Gala, themed 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style', a tribute to the elegance of Black Dandies. Though The Met drew inspiration from old-school Atlanta, the true roots of Dandyism are deeply embedded in African fashion history. One key origin point is South Africa in the 1970s, where Zulu migrant workers used sharply tailored, colourful outfits to challenge apartheid-era ideas of Black masculinity. The look – similar to 'Sunday best' – was more than fashion, it was resistance. Groups like the Swenkas, often referred to today as part of the Nkabi drip, embodied this rebellion. Their flair is finally being appreciated, as more people explore the links between style, identity and African subcultures. To explore this legacy, we spoke to fashion designer Mzukisi Mbane, founder of Imprint ZA, a brand rooted in Afro-Futurism and Pan-African storytelling. 'Dandism, for me, is about our ability to express ourselves,' Mzukisi explains. 'It goes beyond clothing – it's a language that tells our stories and reflects the political and social realities we face.' He recalls the vibrant, expressive fashion of 1950s Sophiatown, where colour, texture and tailoring were tools of self-expression. Mzukisi cites icons like Nelson Mandela, Winnie Mandela and Sol Plaatje as early inspirations. 'My biggest takeaway from Dandy style is the importance of fine tailoring,' he says. 'My mom used to sew at home and watching her –from fabric selection to final fit – shaped my love for fashion.' African fashion has long influenced global runways, though recognition often lagged behind. Today, African designers are finally being included in the global conversation. 'African styles have always been present on the world stage,' he says. 'But now, African designers and subcultures are being credited. Our stories are being told by us.' He points to moments like Marc Jacobs' SS2002 collection, which featured Shweshwe prints, and Louis Vuitton's 2012 use of Maasai fabric, which sparked debate about cultural appropriation. When asked which designers champion the dandy aesthetic best, Mzukisi's answer is personal. 'I might be biased, but I'd have to say Imprint South Africa. That's what our brand ethos is all about – celebrating glamour and telling the stories of our African ancestors using prints, fabrics, and history,' he says. 'Our motto is simple: 'Leave a mark.'' View this post on Instagram A post shared by Mzukisi Mbane (@mzukisimbane) If he were to style the ultimate African Dandy look today? 'I'd challenge traditional ideas of gender and masculinity – something bold, beautiful and unapologetic in a world that doesn't always welcome that kind of expression.' Show Comments ()
Vogue
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Bibhu Mohapatra Resort 2026 Collection
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News24
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Youth Month spotlight: Zulaikha Patel and crowning the glory
Zulaikha Patel is the author of children's book called Brave Like Me. She believes people should be able to live freely and boldly. Zulaikha says memories of high school hair policies still linger. ____________________________________________________ Nine years ago, Zulaikha Patel, the fearless founder of Dare to Change, sparked an anti-racism movement that ignited a global conversation. The world watched, mesmerised, as a harsh reality set in: the past isn't just a distant memory but a reflection of the present – and a reminder that the fight for justice is far from over. The members of that movement still grow, fuelling a new generation of change-makers. As Zulaikha's journey continues, her latest milestone – the release of her second book, Brave Like Me – shines a light on her personal story of childhood bravery forged alongside her dad. This heartwarming biographical children's book intertwines with her courageous stand in 2016, revealing a powerful intersection of the past andpresent. It raises the question: how do you make your voice echo through the noise? As we step into Youth Month this June, this question becomes a rallying cry. It reminds young people to reflect on the world they want to create. What kind of country do they envision? What barriers hold them back from unleashing their full selves? How do personal expressions like hair become a battleground, colliding with restrictive policies? And how can one dare to challenge the status quo and spark real change? View this post on Instagram A post shared by Zulaikha (زليخة) Patel🇿🇦 (@zulaikhapatel_) Hair tangled in politics From the outside, contemporary South Africa is a beautiful place. Visitors flock from around the world to witness its beauty, but beneath the surface, the past continues to cast a long, silent shadow. It's a past marked by painful reminders, like the 'pencil test' that once determined your race and dictated your future. Zulaikha notes how for many young South Africans, this past feels distant, disconnected from their daily lives. Yet, despite this disconnection, they're still grappling with the weight of identity and belonging. They're searching for their place in the world, with the complexities of growing up in a country where history and culture are intertwined. And as they look to the future, they're faced with reconciling their own stories with the ones that have shaped their nation. The world around them, from the streets they call home to the schools they attend, shapes their voice and molds their sense of self. And surprisingly, something that can seem as mundane as hair policies in schools can have an increasing impact, influencing how they see themselves and their place in the world. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Zulaikha (زليخة) Patel🇿🇦 (@zulaikhapatel_) Hair policies in schooling systems The memories of high school hair policies still linger, a strict code that governed every strand. Only neutral-coloured hair pieces are allowed, and no bold dye jobs to express individuality. Hair had to be tied back, never framing their faces or obstructing their eyes. Beads and other hair accessories? Forbidden. For Samki and Ntsephe, these rules left them trapped and restricted. Their hair was reduced to a conformist norm. But Orethabisitse saw it differently – a line had to be drawn somewhere, a balance between personal style and school regulations. However, for Zulaikha, it exceeds the simple notion of school regulations. 'People should exist boldly and freely, without any control or surveillance,' she notes. Zulaikha points out the elephant in the room: many of these hair policies have their roots in the apartheid era, and it's time we stop beating around the bush. The racism isn't 'underlying' – it's blatant, it's real, and it's still perpetuated today. For her, this conversation also serves as a stark reminder that, as Black people, there's still a long journey ahead. 'As Black people, we still have a long way to go because our minds tend to be our oppressors,' she says. This internalised oppression can be subtle, yet powerful. Even something like wearing your hair in its natural state can be a radical act. 'When you wear your Afro out, you are already stating your politics,' she notes. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Zulaikha (زليخة) Patel🇿🇦 (@zulaikhapatel_) Rooted in identity, Zulaikha, with her proud Ndebele and Indian roots, has always celebrated her mixed-race heritage. She reminds people to think about how they express their politics through the way they wear their hair. For those looking to challenge restrictive hair policies that stifle self-expression, she offers some practical advice: - Write the concerns: This simple act can be powerful. By putting your thoughts and feelings into words, you're able to clarify thoughts, identify patterns of injustice, and create a paper trail that can be used to advocate for change. - Go to the district managers of your school: They have the power to implement policy changes and address specific issues within your school. - Go to external governing bodies: The South African Human Rights Commission (SAHRC) has the authority to investigate and address human rights violations, including those related to discriminatory hair policies. By involving the SAHRC, you can bring attention to the issue and work towards creating systemic change that benefits not just yourself, but future generations. Being brave 'It's the small waves of change in societies and communities that get blown into greater waves of change in societies,' Zulaikha shares. 'Small acts begin in your home, community, circle, and spaces that you're in.' She emphasises that Youth Day is about the younger generation pushing forward, building on the progress made by those who fought for freedom and equality. As she eloquently puts it, hair is a symbol of resistance and a continuation of the fight for freedom. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Zulaikha (زليخة) Patel🇿🇦 (@zulaikhapatel_) Show Comments ()
