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Smartly Dressed Travelers With a Sentimental Satchel

Smartly Dressed Travelers With a Sentimental Satchel

New York Times18-02-2025
The word 'timeless' came to mind when I glimpsed Gilang Al Ghifari Lukman, left, and Medina Janneta El-Rahman at a ferry landing in Istanbul while I was in the city on vacation last November. Though it has been months since we met, I thought of them as I prepared to go to Europe for fashion shows this month.
They are the type of stylish people I always hope to bump into when I'm traveling — the kind who give me a chance to break out my vintage Rolleiflex film camera, a model that was used by noted fashion photographers like Richard Avedon and Bert Stern and that I do not get to use enough on the street these days.
Mr. Lukman, 27, and Ms. Rahman, 25, live in Birmingham, England, and were vacationing in Istanbul. They told me that they always liked to dress smartly. Both grew up in Indonesia, and Mr. Lukman said his style was influenced by how people there dressed and by the elegant fashions of Britain's Edwardian era.
His handsome satchel was made of goat leather, he said, and sentimental to him: 'It was purchased with my first-ever salary from a dishwashing part-time job while studying in Kyoto.'
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The original sirens in mythology weren't the seductresses we know today
The original sirens in mythology weren't the seductresses we know today

National Geographic

time22-07-2025

  • National Geographic

The original sirens in mythology weren't the seductresses we know today

Sirens torment Ulysses with their enchanting song in Herbert James Draper's 1909 painting titled 'Ulysses and the Sirens.' Draper portrays the Sirens as sexualized mermaids, consistent with other Edwardian era depictions of the creatures. © Ferens Art Gallery / Bridgeman Images For thousands of years sirens have lured sailors, haunted coastlines—and shapeshifted through myth and media. Here's how they evolved to the seductive mermaids of our modern imagination. The Greek hero Odysseus famously faces many travails as he attempts to return home following the Trojan War, from giant cannibals to enigmatic enchantresses. But one challenge stands out as perhaps the most evocative, dangerous, and enduring of them all: the sirens, with their hypnotic and mesmerizing song, who call to passing sailors. To stop is certain death. They're powerful and mysterious figures and even now, of all the creatures from Greek myths, audiences simply can't get enough of them. Sirens have been a fixture of the Western imagination since the time of Homer and the composition of The Odyssey in the 8th century B.C. They appear in the works of ancient Roman writers like Pliny the Elder and Ovid, and one even appears in Dante's Divine Comedy. They fascinated painters of the 19th century and now lend their name to television shows and the "siren-core" fashion aesthetic touted by social media creators. (Dante's 'Inferno' is a journey to hell and back.) But these mythological creatures have shifted forms dramatically over the centuries, transforming with the times to reflect society's complicated and ever-changing relationship with desire. In modern popular culture, sirens are alluring creatures of the sea, most commonly women, often sporting shimmering mermaid tails. But their ancient Greek roots weren't fishlike at all; instead, they were bird-bodied creatures associated with death. Here's how sirens have evolved over time, and why their song stays so loud in popular culture. A attic terracotta status from Greece 300 BCE shows Sirens in their original, bird-woman form. Photograph by Peter Horree, Alamy Stock Photo This artwork titled 'A Siren and a Centaur' shows how classical mythology and artistic imagination have blended together to reshape Sirens iconography. The piece portrays a bird-like siren (left) and centaur (right) in an imaginative and dynamic scene. Photograph by ART Collection, Alamy Stock Photo Homer's Odyssey is the sirens' earliest appearance. Thought to have been composed sometime in the 8th century B.C., the poem follows the winding path of the hero Odysseus as he returns home to Ithaca and his long-suffering wife from the Trojan War. Along the way, he faces Greek gods, marvels, and monsters, including the sirens. The sorceress Circe warns him about the creatures, telling him that they 'bewitch all passersby. If anyone goes near them in ignorance, and listens to their voices, that man will never travel to his home.' Odysseus plugs his men's ears with wax, so they won't be lured—but he leaves his own ears free and commands his men to bind him to the ship's mast, so he's able to hear their promises as they tempt him with the prospect of knowledge and tales of heroic deeds. (The Odyssey offers monsters and magic—and also a real look into the ancient world.) But the Odyssey is far from the only story featuring the sirens. They also appear in the Argonautica, a 3rd century B.C. epic poem following Jason and the Argonauts in their search for the Golden Fleece, where sirens are described as daughters of the river god Achelous and the muse Terpsichore. The musician Orpheus snatches up his lyre to drown out their song—but not before one member of the crew throws himself in the ocean. Tradition has it that the names of those sirens were Parthenop, Ligeia and Leucosia. Perhaps the siren's most important distinguishing feature—and the one that remains to this day—is their voice. 'It's a hypnotic voice, it lures people, makes them forget everything, in a lot of cases makes them fall asleep,' says Marie-Claire Beaulieu, associate professor of classical studies at Tufts University. 'Essentially, people become so hypnotized that they forget everything.' What do sirens symbolize in Greek culture? 'When the ancients say sirens, they mean a bird-bodied woman,' says Beaulieu. Closely associated with death, sirens' bird legs and wings show that they're liminal creatures who dwell betwixt and between. Their connection with the sea, which the ancient Greeks considered profoundly dangerous, and their wings, situate them somewhere between earth and air. Sirens were a fixture of ancient Greek funerary art, such as stele, a type of grave marker. For example, Boston's Museum of Fine Arts holds a funerary plaque from the 7th century B.C. depicting a mourning scene, in which two women flank a funeral couch that holds a corpse. Crouched underneath is a siren. Some sources, including Euripides' 5th century B.C. play Helen and Ovid's 8th century A.D. poem Metamorphoses, associate the sirens with Persephone, the goddess of spring carried off by Hades, god of the underworld, to become his queen. Some stories say they were given wings to seek Persephone. According to Beaulieu, som e sources, including the Argonautica , show sirens as the daughters of one of the Muses. 'Except that in a way, they're the Muses of death, instead of the Muses of life, because they lure people to death with this singing,' says Beaulieu. This mural from the 14th century shows a Siren playing music. During this period, the enchantresses were depicted as both bird-women and mermaids. Photograph by Heritage Image Partnership Ltd, Alamy Stock Photo How the iconography of sirens has evolved Sirens retained their bird bodies into the time of the Roman Empire and well beyond; Pliny the Elder includes them in the 'Fabulous Birds' section of his Natural History, written around A.D. 77, claiming they lull men to sleep with their song and then tear them to pieces. (Though he's a skeptic that they exist.) But over the course of the Middle Ages, the siren transformed. More and more they began exhibiting fishtails, not bird bodies. The two types coexisted from the 12th through 14th centuries at least, Beaulieu explains, but eventually the mermaid-like creature emerged as dominant. That shift is probably thanks in part to the strong Greek and Roman tradition of unrelated sea gods like Triton, as well as the sirens' association with water. But it's also thanks in no small part to the influence of Celtic folklore traditions. 'The blending is a super interesting syncretism of cultures,' says Beaulieu, pointing to 14th century tradition about St. Brendan the Navigator, an early Irish Christian whose journeys parallel those of Odysseus. Naturally, he encounters a siren on his odyssey—only this one is wholly recognizable to modern audiences as a mermaid. How Christianity has shaped Greek mythology As the physical appearance of the sirens began to shift, so did their symbolic meaning. The sirens of ancient Greece were considered beautiful—but they tempted Odysseus with songs of glory, not simply sex. Ancient Greeks were more concerned with power dynamics, so a man having sex with a subordinate woman wasn't a problem. 'You get into trouble when you have a goddess having sex with a mortal, for instance,' explains Beaulieu. "That's part of what would have given the sirens their menace." But medieval Christianity saw sex and sirens differently. They became symbols of temptation itself, a way to talk about the lures of worldly pleasures and the deceptive, corrupting pull of sin. Hence the appearance of a siren in Dante's 14th century Divine Comedy. The very same creature who tempted Odysseus comes to Dante in a dream and identifies herself as 'the pleasing siren, who in midsea leads mariners astray.' In the end, his guide and companion through the underworld (the epic poet Virgil) grabs her, tears her clothing, and exposes the 'stench' of her belly showing the medieval siren is sexually alluring but repulsive. Those medieval temptresses are unmistakably the roots of modern sirens, with their dangerously attractive songs. The association between sirens, mermaids, and temptation only grew tighter in the 19th century, when painters returned again and again to creamy-skinned, bare-breasted sirens with lavish hair. There is no better example than John William Waterhouse's turn-of-the-century painting The Siren, where a lovely young woman gazes down at a stricken, shipwrecked young sailor who looks both terrified and enthralled. The sirens of modern-day popular culture Millennia later, the sirens continue to resonate. They're even inspiration for a fashion aesthetic: sirencore, a beachy and romantic look with just a little hint of menace. Modern creatives, meanwhile, are still turning to the sirens as a source of inspiration and a rich symbol for exploring power, gender, and knowledge. Netflix's new release Sirens, which adapts Molly Smith Metzler's 2011 play Elemeno Pea and stars Julianne Moore, explicitly grapples with the mythological figure. Director Nicole Kassell told The Hollywood Reporter, 'I love the idea of analyzing the idea of what a siren is, and who says what a siren is—the sailor. It's very fun to get to go back and consider it from a female lens.' Black sirens navigate the challenges of modern-day sexism and racism in Bethany C. Morrow's 2020 A Song Below Water; a Puerto Rican immigrant falls in love with a merman on turn-of-the-century Coney Island in Venessa Vida Kelley's 2025 When The Tides Held The Moon. For many writers, sirens are an opportunity to turn old tales and stereotypes on their head, using characters who've long been reviled and distrusted for their controversial power. The Sirens by Emilia Hart is one such modern-day retelling, which weaves between the modern day, and the 19th century transportation of Irish women convicts to Australia. 'I thought this mythological creature was the perfect way to give my female characters some power back into this historical narrative,' she explains. 'I wanted to make this general comment on how we think about women and how we have this idea of women as being temptresses, and we demonize them and we overly sexualize them, as a way of trying to explain or perhaps diminish their power,' she says. In the hands of modern-day writers, the sea can become a place of transformation, freedom, and potential. And sirens can be restored to a place of power and wisdom—and, yes, a bit of danger too.

The Art of Forever: Exploring the World of Designer Engagement Rings
The Art of Forever: Exploring the World of Designer Engagement Rings

Time Business News

time07-07-2025

  • Time Business News

The Art of Forever: Exploring the World of Designer Engagement Rings

Few moments in life carry the emotional weight and symbolic meaning of an engagement. It's a celebration of love, commitment, and the promise of a shared future. And at the center of this cherished milestone is the engagement ring—a token that speaks volumes. For those who want something extraordinary, Designer Engagement Rings offer the perfect balance between craftsmanship, individuality, and timeless beauty. Whether you're planning a surprise proposal or shopping as a couple, choosing a designer engagement ring is more than just selecting a piece of jewelry—it's about capturing a unique story in metal and stone. In a world filled with mass-produced jewelry, designer engagement rings stand out as wearable art. These rings are meticulously crafted by artisans who pour passion and precision into every detail. The result is a ring that doesn't just sparkle—it resonates with meaning and reflects the unique bond between two people. Exceptional Craftsmanship: Each ring is handcrafted with attention to detail, from stone placement to setting style. Each ring is handcrafted with attention to detail, from stone placement to setting style. Innovative Designs: Designers often blend traditional techniques with modern aesthetics, resulting in breathtaking originality. Designers often blend traditional techniques with modern aesthetics, resulting in breathtaking originality. High-Quality Materials: From ethically sourced diamonds to premium metals, quality is never compromised. From ethically sourced diamonds to premium metals, quality is never compromised. Limited Editions: Many designer rings are produced in limited numbers, making them even more exclusive. Choosing a designer ring ensures you're not just buying jewelry—you're investing in a legacy of creativity and craftsmanship. From bold and architectural to delicate and romantic, designer rings come in a wide range of styles. Here are some of the most sought-after trends: Designer rings often draw inspiration from the Art Deco or Edwardian eras. These styles feature intricate detailing, milgrain edges, and ornate settings, perfect for those who adore old-world romance. Simplicity speaks volumes. Clean lines, solitaire settings, and sleek bands are ideal for the modern bride who values understated sophistication. More couples are moving beyond traditional diamonds and opting for sapphires, emeralds, and even unique stones like morganite or aquamarine. A coloured gemstone adds personality and individuality to the ring. Floral motifs, leaf patterns, and organically flowing shapes are perfect for those who feel a deep connection to the natural world. Some designers focus on bold, contemporary aesthetics. Think asymmetrical bands, architectural lines, and striking stone settings. One of the greatest advantages of opting for a designer ring is the ability to personalise it. Whether it's engraving a special date, selecting a unique gemstone, or tweaking the design elements, customisation makes the ring even more meaningful. Engraving initials, messages, or dates on the band initials, messages, or dates on the band Choosing the cut and carat of the center stone and carat of the center stone Selecting side stones or halo settings for added brilliance or halo settings for added brilliance Opting for mixed metals for a contemporary look Designers often work closely with clients to ensure the final piece is not just beautiful, but also deeply personal. Designer engagement rings are made from the finest materials that ensure longevity, beauty, and value. Platinum: Durable and naturally white, it enhances the sparkle of diamonds. Durable and naturally white, it enhances the sparkle of diamonds. 18K Gold: Available in yellow, rose, or white—each offering its own unique character. Available in yellow, rose, or white—each offering its own unique character. Palladium: A rare metal that offers a lighter alternative to platinum with a similar look. Ethically sourced, conflict-free diamonds are the standard in high-end designer rings. Colored gemstones are graded based on clarity, cut, and hue to ensure vibrance and longevity. Attention is also given to setting methods that enhance light reflection and overall brilliance. While traditional engagement rings serve as a promise, designer engagement rings go a step further—they express individuality and artistry. The moment a partner opens that box and reveals a ring that's been thoughtfully chosen (or even custom-made), it elevates the proposal to something even more unforgettable. The ring becomes a lifelong symbol of the care and thought that went into choosing it. A well-crafted designer ring doesn't just last a lifetime—it becomes part of your family's story. Its quality ensures that it can be passed down for generations, carrying with it memories of love, milestones, and history. Heirloom-worthy designer rings are often designed to be timeless yet adaptable, ensuring they resonate with future wearers while honoring their origins. When it comes to finding a ring that perfectly embodies your love story, it's essential to choose a designer who shares your vision and values. Andrew Geoghegan is a name synonymous with contemporary craftsmanship and exceptional design. With a reputation built on passion, precision, and innovation, the brand offers a stunning selection of rings that celebrate both tradition and modern romance. Whether you prefer bold geometry or soft romance, their collection offers a curated experience for couples seeking perfection in every detail. Before you make a final decision, here are some tips to ensure your designer engagement ring ticks all the right boxes: Does she prefer minimalist or ornate? Is she drawn to vintage or modern aesthetics? Would she like a classic diamond or a coloured stone? Will the design stand the test of time? Is it durable enough for everyday wear? Will it complement future wedding bands? Ensure transparency in material sourcing Look for certifications on diamonds or precious stones Read reviews or seek recommendations Choosing an engagement ring is one of the most meaningful purchases you'll ever make. It's not just about beauty—it's about telling your story through craftsmanship, detail, and emotion. With Designer Engagement Rings , you're not just buying jewelry—you're creating a legacy. Whether you're drawn to timeless elegance or bold innovation, a designer ring ensures your commitment is celebrated with artistry that lasts forever. TIME BUSINESS NEWS

A Modernist Masterpiece Hotel Is Hiding In Plain Sight On The Thames.
A Modernist Masterpiece Hotel Is Hiding In Plain Sight On The Thames.

Forbes

time30-06-2025

  • Forbes

A Modernist Masterpiece Hotel Is Hiding In Plain Sight On The Thames.

James McDonald The Sea Containers hotel occupies a historic Brutalist building in an enviable spot on the South Bank of the Thames, but it doesn't seem to get the attention of other design-forward hotels in London. Which is a head scratcher, to be sure. The building itself was designed by American Modernist architect Warren Platner, and the hotel's original interiors were by Tom Dixon's Design Research Studio (it was his first ever hotel project). For over a decade, the intriguing property — with 354 rooms, three restaurant/bar options, a cinema, and a spa — has been an IYKYK situation. Which is how regulars would love to keep it. But the tides are turning and the debut of four new over-the-top-in-the-best-way suites are thrusting this notable introvert into the spotlight. The lobby of the hotel boasts a dramatic, 223-fppt-long curved copper wall meant to resemble a ship's hull, complete with 160,000 rivets. Niall Clutton 'Everything in the hotel has a story. Entering the lobby is like arriving at a shipyard before going on your trans-Atlantic voyage, and all the rooms were designed to be cabins,' noted Jacu Strauss, creative director of Lore Group, operators of this property, as well as the Pulitzer in Amsterdam and the Riggs in Washington, DC. 'We wanted to add to the story. I looked back at key moments in trans-Atlantic travel over the last 125 years and there were, to me, four distinct eras of sea travel that correlated to interesting shifts in design, society and engineering.' The four eras Strauss identified were: Edwardian, Art Deco, Mid-Century Modern and the 1980s; he combined eight standard rooms on the 15th floor to create the four suites representing these eras, each with a bedroom, sitting room, bathroom and powder room. (Fun fact: as a young architect/designer, Strauss was employed by Tom Dixon and worked on the original designs for this very hotel). Red lighting becons those walking down the red-carpeted corridor towards these suites; each has a unique door that hints to what lies behind. The Edwardian Suite. James McDonald 'The Edwardian era was the first time travel became recreational. Ships were engineered like never before, and this was celebrated fully through decadence, elegance and grandeur,' explained Strauss. His Edwardian Suite features a 120 year-old kidney-shaped desk, artwork from that era including a large painting of a cruise liner at sea and even a plaque featuring the profile of King Edward VII, who, Strauss notes, is the era's namesake. James McDonald An antique oak cabinet in the bathroom is styled with ships in a bottle – 'a playful and nostalgic surprise.' At the time of this writing, this particular suite was proving to be a guest favorite overall. Strauss postulates that perhaps nostalgia plays a role: 'this reminds a little bit of something I saw or experienced when I as younger.' Or it could be the large copper soaking tub, set in a marble niche clad with vintage photos of sailing ships. Or the view of St. Paul's Cathedral, just across the way. The Art Deco Suite ©James McDonald 'Art Deco was the period between the two world wars, a celebration of style and simplicity, with strong forms combined with rich textures. People built their homes to look like big ships, for example.' James McDonald Strauss spent months sourcing treasures for the room, including vintage glassware appropriate for that era, as well as the reproduction full scale diving helmet in the powder room, and the gleaming nickel bath tub with a Tamara Lempika-inspired portrait above. ©James McDonald Strauss recalled that he 'personally collected [the artwork] from the seller in North London and drove it myself in my convertible Mini. Definitely got a few looks on that journey!' The Mid-Century Modern Suite James McDonald The mid-century modern era, Strauss notes, dates to the 1950s, but it could be argued that it continued through a portion of the 1970s as designs with mass appeal and staying power. 'It was a stylistic and social revolution driven through what was happening in the US in particular. And this included a new social environment of recreation, practicality, and technology.' James McDonald Many iconic pieces from that era combine certain shades of wood, laminate and steel – three materials Strauss employed to great effect. There are distinctive pieces by USM Haller, a Swiss-based furniture company, vintage glass and ceramic pieces, a color blocked rug, lighting that nods to George Nelson and Noguchi and sideboards that Strauss repurposed as bathroom vanities. James McDonald The Dynasty Suite James McDonald The fourth and final suite is the Dynasty Suite. Which celebrates everything '80s but, Strauss is quick to point out, 'not the dress up party 80's…. the bold and confident and very decadent 80's. Bigger was better and this applied to ocean travel. Recreational cruise programs became more diverse, ships got bigger, focused on having a good time and exploring even more exotic destinations.' James McDonald Those who remember the iconic television show will appreciate the color palette, the curvaceous furniture (those scallop chairs were sourced f the U.S. and reupholstered), the spot-on accessories, the gold-toned swan faucets in the bathroom, and that fabulously over-the-top headboard. James McDonald James McDonald Collectors take note: Strauss observed that of all the suites, items for the Dynasty era were the hardest to find. He predicts an '80s interiors comeback, advising interest parties to 'snap up post-modern 80's items!' tout de suite. Sea Containers London, 20 Upper Ground, Sea Containers London occupies a 1974 Warren Platner-designed building on the Thames Niall Clutton

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