Demand for year-round rhubarb doubles amid nostalgia boom

Telegraph

21-02-2025

The variant is said to have been discovered accidentally in 1815, when labourers working at Chelsea Physic Garden accidentally buried a root bed, only to discover long pink stems when they later cleared away the topsoil.
The findings were reported in the Horticultural Society Journal and gave inspiration to commercial growers.
Place UK, a Norwich supplier producing 25 tonnes of forced rhubarb every year, says it has seen a 170 per cent increase in sales since 2019.
Experts say the increase is driven largely by nostalgia for a flavour many associate with cosy childhood memories.
Lisa Harris, co-founder of Harris and Hayes food and drink consultancy, told The Telegraph: 'We've seen a wave of food nostalgia sweep menus recently, which is one contributing factor to rhubarb's moment in the spotlight. It's quite an old-fashioned ingredient, like gooseberries or prunes.'
'Drawn to its nostalgic appeal'
Massimo Battipaglia, director of the Chef Academy of London, added: 'Rhubarb's resurgence ties into the broader trend of celebrating seasonal and heritage ingredients…diners are drawn to its nostalgic appeal.'
But the ingredient isn't just finding favour among the older generations - much of this upturn has been fuelled by social media, with the vibrant pink hue making rhubarb perfect for online content.
TikTok recipes and 'cook-alongs' regularly attract upwards of one million views.
Among all the hype, foodies have been experimenting with recipes both old and new.
While the favourite still seems to be a classic rhubarb crumble or pie, they tell us that uses for this versatile ingredient go well beyond that.
'Explore its potential'
Alex Firman, head of a catering company in East Anglia, says: 'A simple rinse, chop and light bake in a tray with a sprinkle of sugar is all it takes to create a lovely compote.'
He recommends pairing this with 'granola and yoghurt as a healthy-ish breakfast, or as a replacement for berries in a simple to prepare Eton Mess. We use it as an accompaniment to feta and honey cheesecake, with a sprinkle of oat shortbread crumble.'
Massimo says his team of academy chefs likes to 'explore its potential in savoury dishes - think rhubarb chutneys paired with game meats, pickled rhubarb as a bright counterpoint to rich dishes, or even rhubarb-infused sauces and glazes. In desserts, it shines in mousses, tarts, and sorbets, often paired with unexpected flavours like miso or black pepper to elevate its depth.'
Rhubarb can also be used to flavour drinks including gin, wine and lemonade.
Food-evoked nostalgia
TikTok is awash with creative recipes, with videos guiding users through rhubarb crème brûlées, salads and sorbets. One recent video, explaining how to turn the pink vegetable into a flavoured coffee, attracted over 1.3 million views.
Beyond food and drink, it can also be found in a variety of household products, from washing-up liquid to candles and even loo paper.
Production shows no signs of slowing down; indeed recent demand for the crop has seen it expand beyond the so-called rhubarb triangle in West Yorkshire to farms all across the UK.
And given the well-documented power of food-evoked nostalgia, as well as forced rhubarb's broad base of appeal, it appears that the ingredient is here to stay.