.jpg%3Ftrim%3D167%2C0%2C169%2C0%26width%3D1200%26height%3D800%26crop%3D1200%3A800&w=3840&q=100)
Experience Scotland's most magical islands with this cruise – following William and Kate's anniversary trip
A day alive with world-class hiking, breeching whales and boat-fresh seafood lingers on with a smouldering Hebridean sunset; enjoyed with a dram in hand in the on-deck hot tub. Welcome to life aboard Hebrides Cruises' Emma Jane, a small luxury ship that eases just 10 guests on life-affirming adventures around Scotland 's incomparable islands.
It's no wonder that the royal couple William and Kate are rumoured to have sailed to Mull when they celebrated their 14th wedding anniversary. 'There is nowhere quite like the Hebrides,' beams the Emma Jane 's skipper Jake (it's very much first name terms with Hebrides Cruises) from the helm of a plush cruiser that feels more Monaco than Mallaig. 'To explore this magical archipelago is a real privilege; I cannot think of anywhere else I'd rather be sailing.'
I'm back aboard the Emma Jane for the 10-night 'Far-flung islands: Shiants & the Summer Isles' cruise eight years since I joined her inaugural sailing. Since then, she has aged more gracefully than me, each winter enjoying upgrades, including a hybrid power system, part of a determination to be more sustainable that has attracted Hebrides Cruises coveted Green Tourism Gold awards. Their fleet – which also includes the trim former rescue vessel Elizabeth G and the even more luxurious Lucy Mary – cannot stop winning awards, with half a dozen in 2024 and two Sailawaze gongs this year.
As we emerge from their home port of Oban, I share Jake's enthusiasm as an escort of porpoises greets us. Wildlife is a constant companion with Hebrides Cruises: minke whales in the Minch, sea eagles off Rona and a massive pod of common dolphins on approach to Loch Torridon are just some of the highlights on a cruise that would have Sir David Attenborough purring. Then there are the seabirds: gannets, guillemots, great skuas (called 'bonxies' in these isles) and impossibly cute puffins, with two per cent of the world's population of the latter in the Shiant Islands alone.
If the royals did cruise their way to the Isle of Mull, it wouldn't be a surprise. Queen Victoria's burning passion for Scotland forged a castle at Balmoral and the Royal Yacht Britannia was practically wed to the Hebrides until her retirement in 1997. The late Queen Elizabeth II missed her Hebridean trips so much she chartered another small luxury cruise ship, the Hebridean Princess. Twice. William and Kate simply took up the Hebridean mantle with their anniversary Mull trip.
Life aboard the Emma Jane is indeed a regal affair. The large main deck interior is open-plan with comfy leather seating and a hardwood dining table. Talented young chef Minty works her magic in an open kitchen with local langoustines, scallops and beef; skipper Jake chipping in with freshly caught mackerel. Stewardess Trinity serves up winning smiles and a genuine friendliness that spreads through the passengers as strangers become friends, our group quickly bonding over shared wildlife experiences and tales from previous Hebrides Cruises voyages. Onboard wildlife guide Will tells me: 'We get a lot of repeat guests – they really love their time aboard and many come back every year.'
That hot tub bubbles away, easing muscles pounded by yomping across Lewisian gneiss and Torridonian sandstone. These are some of the oldest rocks in the world, stars of the elemental, savagely beautiful – and still relatively unspoilt – Hebrides. Think towering mountains, emerald slopes, soaring sea cliffs and starched white beaches. The Thai tourist authorities famously borrowed one beach from the Hebrides for an advertising campaign – and on this cruise, I repeatedly see why. Another highlight is a beach landing on Caribbean-esque Coral Beach on Skye for a life-affirming spring swim.
As we round Ardnamurchan Lighthouse, and the most westerly point on the island of Britain, it's also easy to see why Mendelssohn was so inspired by the Hebrides that he crafted an eponymous overture in their honour. Mull's mountains rear up behind, while ahead the quartet of Small Isles vie deliciously for attention, with Rum's sky-scraping Cuillin mountains a match for their namesakes on the brooding hulk of Skye.
Being aboard Hebrides Cruises can feel like dreamily sailing around inside a postcard, or reclining in an elegant coastal cafe with its decadent afternoon teas and epic scenery, but you can get stuck into this wild and wildly beautiful land, too. Will leads a wildlife walk on every island, sharing his deep passion for the Hebrides and its rich flora and fauna: everything from flesh-eating plants and striking orchids, through to the hulking red deer, leaping dolphins and magical orcas.
I strike out alone too, as I'm sure some of the royals have done on their Hebridean forays away from the glare of cameras. I tackle the imposing 393m summit of An Sgùrr, an impenetrable fortress from the water that leaves its back door open to allow a short scramble to a summit that peers over swathes of the Hebrides. The Shiant Islands also offer a hike with thousands of birds swirling all around; Rona a yomp to a mysterious cave where they used to hold church services, and the tragic ruins of a cleared village.
The Highland Clearances are the baleful period from the eighteenth century into the early twentieth when thousands of Hebridean islanders were forced off their ancestral land for ships bound for the likes of Canada and New Zealand. As well as sobering history, these Hebridean cruises also bring signs of renewed hope in the isles. Our last stop is Eigg, an isle that has thrived after being run by the community since 1997. It became the world's first island to be powered by its own green electricity and the islanders are keen to share their story in the slick new community centre and café, An Laimhrig, which beams like a beacon and Hebridean exemplar as we arrive by tender.
As we reluctantly sail back into Oban, I disembark with a spirit-soaring reel of sights, smells and sounds seared across my heart and my soul. My own love of the Hebrides burns brighter than ever. Whether William and Kate cruised with Hebrides Cruises or not, this unique family-run company offer experiences that are truly fit for a royalty.
Robin was travelling as a guest of Hebrides Cruises.
How to do it
Hebrides Cruises 'Far-flung islands: Shiants & the Summer Isles' 10-night cruise has berths on the Emma Jane for £4,460 per person, including all meals, wine with dinner, teas and coffees, tenders and the services of a wildlife guide. They offer myriad Hebridean options across their trio of vessels. Find out more at hebridescruises.co.uk.
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
The Sun
27 minutes ago
- The Sun
Tourists defecated in BINS to dodge ‘poo lasagnes' in toilets & floors squelched with wee aboard infamous ‘Poop Cruise'
IT should have been the trip of a lifetime... instead it turned into the ultimate holiday from hell. Passengers went from sipping cocktails on deck and enjoying sumptuous dinners to wading through pools of raw sewage and sleeping in a makeshift tent city outside after a catastrophic power failure left the Carnival Triumph cruise liner floating adrift - with no flushing toilets. 20 20 20 20 In the ultimate final degradation, holidaymakers were even asked to defecate in red plastic bags instead of using the over-flowing loos. It was a huge PR disaster for the luxury Carnival cruise line and led to the ship being known around the world as the 'Poop Cruise'. Passenger Devin Marble tells The Sun none of the passengers were prepared for the horrifying announcement that the toilets were going to stop working. "That was some rough news for sure," he recalls. "And no-one expected the red bags at all. They were adult-sized poopy bags - and those bags aren't very big.' The 13 storey, 9,000ft long luxury liner embarked on a four day trip out of New Orleans throughout the Gulf of Mexico in February 2013. For Devin it was the first time meeting his then wife-to-be's extended family and he wanted to make a good impression. 'It was really important to me to make a good impression on my father-in-law,' he explains. 'I wanted to be the man who can provide, and he feels confident in me, we had just got engaged. I met her uncles, nephews, nieces and all the cousins. I just hoped everyone like me. 'When we landed at the first stop, we had a lot of fun. We went snorkelling, ate some delicious food, and that would have been really awesome to keep replicating for the next three days. "Enjoy each other's time and have great experiences together.' But a day later an electrical fire broke out in the middle of the night and turned the entire trip into a horror movie. At first passengers were panic-stricken thinking the ship was going down. Devin says: 'You know, smoke was probably a big indicator. Hearing 'Alpha Team, Alpha Team' waking you up out of a dead sleep, then the lights are out. "We got out of bed and my brother-in-law and I went looking to see where the smoke was coming from. "Our biggest concern was 'Is this a cruise line or is this the Titanic? What is the problem here?'' The crew soon reassured the passengers that the fire was contained and the ship was seaworthy. 'We certainly thought that they must have more than one engine,' says Devin. 'They described it as the door being shut and it is contained. So we thought they will put the fire out, we are going to be slower with one engine, but we are going to be punting along, but that did not happen.' Foul stench 20 20 20 20 Nobody was prepared for what happened next. The loss of power had left 4,000 passengers and crew with no refrigeration, air conditioning or sanitation. The giant cruise liner was effectively dead in the water and drifted powerlessly for four days in the Gulf of Mexico. As the toilets stopped working, it was left to straight-talking British cruise director Jen Baxter to break the news to passengers to do 'number ones' in the showers and 'number twos' in the red plastic bio-hazard bags. But some continued to use the over-flowing toilets and even did their number twos in waste bins, leading to the entire ship smelling of faeces. The sewage system soon became overwhelmed and began leaking the excrement of thousands of people onto the floors and hallways. Devin recalls: 'It wasn't long at all before we started to smell stuff. "Everyday I would go out looking for a working bathroom. I used to go to the lower decks and the lower you go, the thicker the air gets, the more putrid the smell is. 'It was maybe two days into this when I was walking around barefoot, which you do on a cruise ship, and suddenly I felt the carpet squish, squish - and it doesn't rain inside. "Those moments I won't forget.' Meanwhile crew member Abhi describes seeing what he described as a poop "lasagne" in a bathroom - piles of excrement interspersed with layers of toilet paper - while the cafeteria floors were swimming in urine and faeces. 'Tent city' 20 20 20 With the rancid stench and suffocating heat due to the lack of aircon, passengers dragged their mattresses from their cabins and set up a 'tent city' on the upper decks to escape the smell and soaring temperatures. The lack of refrigeration meant food soon ran low, and instead of five-course dinners the passengers were forced to survive on ham and cheese sandwiches. Devin Marble says: 'It was like more of a camping trip than we planned for. We were never without food, it is just that we went from eating lobster to cold cuts. 'The crew did a really good job of getting us supplies. One of the bigger challenges for me was that these types of crisis situations show people's true colours. It was maybe two days into this when I was walking around barefoot, which you do on a cruise ship, and suddenly I felt the carpet squish, squish - and it doesn't rain inside Devin Marble "So when you see people in line and they are leaving with five plates and you just think to yourself, 'I really hope you have a room full of kids and that is why you are taking five plates'.' In a bid to cheer up the desperate passengers, the crew made a bizarre decision - to open up a free bar for the night. 'This is when people's inhibitions really let loose,' says Devin. 'I think people just allowed themselves to panic. "We heard yelling, we heard disagreements. 'At the time we thought the bar was a great idea. We went and had drinks and played cards. But we weren't panicking. "In hindsight, probably not the best idea. The dehydration, the toilets were out, and alcohol makes you want to go to the toilet.' Cabin fever 20 20 20 20 After days of ruined plans, rationed food and the desperate toilet situation, insanity started to creep in. Passengers made help signs, and drew on robes and bed sheets to document the disaster. And whenever they got internet connection they desperately called relatives and friends, or posted on social media to let the world know of the disaster unfolding at sea. 'We would go right to the edge and hold our phones out to any cruise liners coming by to try to get some of their WiFi,' says Devin. 'We would run around the ship to see if we can get roaming. Our primary goals were to get the message to our families and friends that we were safe, or call my work and tell them I'm not coming in tomorrow.' Help finally arrived on Valentine's Day, February 14. Tug boats ushered the floundering ship from the Gulf to a nearby port in Mobile, Alabama, miles away from the cruise's original docking point. And they sailed straight into a media frenzy. Devin recalls: 'I will never forget when we pulled in, there was a crowd of people, lights, flashbulbs. And when we walked down that ramp there were microphones, cameras, we were hit with a wall of media. 'And I will never forget the smell of a Happy Meal - it was great to see those golden arches. And a clean bathroom.' I will never forget the smell of a Happy Meal - it was great to see those golden arches. And a clean bathroom Devin Marble Some passengers decided to take legal action against the cruise company - but ended up with a steak reminder always to read the small print. Maritime lawyer Frank Spagnoletti, represented a number of passengers who took Carnival Cruise Line to court. 'This was something that was totally preventable, so we definitely had a good chance," he told the Netflix Poop Cruise documentary. "The problem is, you run into the ticket.' Carnival's lawyers insisted that those on board the ship had no right to sue in the wake of the disaster, citing that when people booked their holidays with Carnival Cruise Line, they accepted a clause in the terms and conditions that eerily predicted what unfolded on board. The ticket contract read: "[Carnival] makes absolutely no guarantee for safe passage, a seaworthy vessel, adequate and wholesome food, and sanitary and safe living conditions.' 20 20 20 20 Frank added: "It's amazing. I think if most people actually knew that existed at the time, they probably would never buy a ticket. I certainly wouldn't.' Carnival Triumph passengers received a refund, $500, transportation reimbursements, and a voucher for a free cruise. Despite the ticket clause, in 2015 a Florida judge awarded 27 passengers compensation of between $3000 and $15,000. Since the disaster, Carnival has changed their terms and conditions, removing the caveats about wholesome food, sanitary and safe living conditions, safe passage and a seaworthy vessel. Devin and his family decided not to bother with legal action and just to go back to their lives. 'They gave us a free cruise ticket, but we were like, thanks but no thanks,' he laughs. Carnival Triumph underwent a big refurb and as of 2019, it started sailing under a different name: Carnival Sunrise. It is still operating today around The Bahamas and the Caribbean. Trainwreck: Poop Cruise is streaming on Netflix now. 20
The Herald Scotland
36 minutes ago
- The Herald Scotland
Edinburgh Royal Mile tourist office to reopen under new management
Alongside providing visitor information and ticket sales for attractions and tours, the new 'Experience Scotland' centre will include a retail element featuring 'Scottish-made products, unlike many existing Royal Mile retailers,' Cobbs Group said. Councillors agreed a 25-year lease worth £150,000 per year for the unit at 249 High Street on Tuesday. After the closures were announced last year, the council considered taking over the running of the tourist office. However, the proposal was scrapped after it emerged it could cost the authority over £500,000 a year at a time when its budget is already under significant pressure. At a meeting last November where the idea was discussed, Councillor Stuart Dobbin, SNP, said: 'We're not in the tourism business.' He added: 'There are organisations that cater to tourists and I think we need to listen to expert organisations in that business such as VisitScotland and they're giving up the visitors' centre for a reason - that they can't make it work and that they've got alternative strategies for communicating with visitors.' A report to councillor this week states: 'Cobbs are an established tourism based retailer which has been in existence for over 30 years. They currently operate four hotels in the Highlands, 12 gift shops in key tourist locations and employ over 500 staff. They have recently taken over two former Visit Scotland premises in Fort William and Aberfoyle. 'The offer will consist of Scottish themed retailing featuring local producers such as Edinburgh Honey Company, Coco Chocolatier, and Red Box tea and coffee. 'The visitor offering will include an interactive area dedicated to providing visitor information and ticket sales for Edinburgh/Scottish attractions and tours. Cobbs have also confirmed that they would be keen to work with tour operators of all sizes to operate a desk within the property, potentially on a rota basis.' Read more: Cobbs said the centre will offer an 'authentic Scottish experience featuring predominantly Scottish-made products, unlike many existing Royal Mile retailers'. Councillor Mandy Watt, Finance and Resources Convener, said: "While more and more visitors are planning their trips to Edinburgh online, you can't beat a warm Scottish welcome face to face. "We believe there remains an appetite for this type of in-person experience for visitors, particularly with the draw of a shop and a café, so I'm pleased that we've been able to secure the visitor information centre's future. "This will prove invaluable as we encourage tourists to visit all parts of the city in all seasons as part of the city's tourism strategy, and as we introduce Edinburgh's Visitor Levy next summer. The lease will also support us to raise income worth £3.5 million over the next 25 years. "Cobbs is well established throughout Scotland with the family nearing 40 years of tourism experience and we're looking forward to welcoming them into the space." Fraser Campbell, managing director of the Cobbs Group, said: "We're well established in Scotland as the Cobbs group and we proudly operate 35 sites across the country. Opening a tourism office in the heart of Edinburgh is a dream and we're excited to take over the lease. Right in the heart of Edinburgh's festival action, it is the ideal site for showcasing everything the city and Scotland has to offer. 'We're particularly keen to highlight local experiences and 'Made in Scotland' items where we can and I'd urge makers and crafters to please get in touch so that we can offer a unique and authentic range for tourists to enjoy on Edinburgh's famous Royal Mile.'
The Sun
36 minutes ago
- The Sun
Secret UK island with its own CASTLE in ‘unbelievable location' hits the market for first time in 80 years
YOU could be the proud owner of your own island and castle, after an entire Scottish island went on sale for the first time in 80 years. Spanning across 1,110 acres, the island has been in the hands of the same family for the last eight decades. 5 5 5 Shuna Island, which has eight residential properties on it, as well as the castle, is on the market for a whopping £5.5 million. It is located just off the coast from Appin, Argyll and Bute and features a working farm and a holiday home business. Shuna Castle, which was built in the early 20th century is in ruins, but offers panoramic views of the stunning Scottish coast. According to estate agents Sotheby's International Realty there is potential to renovate the castle, subject to planning rules. The estate agents described the island as a "truly rare offering, rich in heritage, natural wonder and possibility". It added that the island is "teeming with wildlife, from red and fallow deer to eagles and porpoises". Livestock farming is also supported on the island, with island traditions including country sports and deer stalking. Plus, the island is eco-friendly, thanks to the renewable energy system that powers it, including photovoltaic panels, wind turbines, battery storage and back-up generators. It even has its own helipad, plus a private pier and slipways for boats. Helicopter flights connect the island to Glasgow airport, which is just 55 miles away and it is also easy to reach the island by boat. We went star spotting at luxury hotel - it's ideal for a romantic getaway "Whether as a regenerative tourism venture or a family estate, this extraordinary Hebridean island offers an exceptional life lived off the beaten path", the estate agents said. The Gully family have owned the island since 1945, with Jim Gully stating that growing up next to white sandy beaches gave him an "idyllic" childhood. The current managers of the island have decided to move into another role, which has promoted the Gully family to sell up. In total, the eight properties on the island house 52 people, making the island suitable for multi-generational living, or a hospitality business. Viewings for the property, will begin next week. 5 5
