Embrace the waves of joy with leheriya this Teej festival

Hindustan Times

a day ago

If Hariyali Teej had a dress code, it would be leheriya. The colourful, ripple-like sarees are synonymous with the festival, as women across North India pull out their finest greens — a nod to 'hariyali' — to mark the monsoon celebration steeped in tradition and goddess lore. Embrace the waves of joy with leheriya this Teej festival(Photos: Instagram)
Rooted in 17th-century Rajasthan, the leheriya (from leher, meaning "wave") pattern mimics the waves of the desert and was originally created using tie-and-dye techniques under Rajput patronage. Interestingly, it began as a style for royal men to flaunt their status with their turbans, but gradually found its way into women's wardrobes with sarees, dupattas, and more.
A wave of celebration
'The flowing wave patterns represent joy, celebration, and prosperity that beautifully align with the spirit of Teej. For many people, even today, wearing leheriya is a way to honour age-old customs,' notes designer Niti Bothra, whose designs include traditional leheriya patterns as well.
Designer Aarti Sethia adds, 'Usually, the sarees are dyed with one colour, but you can also find multicoloured ones, which are called pachrangi sarees,' she shares, adding, 'Sometimes, making pachrangi sarees takes us about a month or so. It is tiring yet a beautiful process altogether. Teej is an ode to this art as well.'
Creating the patterns
The pattern is created using a tie-and-dye technique. These are handcrafted by skilled artisans who roll the fabric diagonally and tie it at equal intervals before dyeing — a method still practised in Jaipur, Jodhpur, and Udaipur, to name a few regions.
Originally, the leheriya sarees were crafted with natural dyes and handloom fabrics such as natural silks and pure cottons. But with the development of modernity, some synthetic dyes and fabrics are also in use today, making this weave festive, wearable, and affordable.
Draping the grace
Lightweight, breathable fabrics such as chiffon, georgette, cotton, and silk work beautifully with leheriya, suggests Bothra. 'These materials allow the dye to absorb evenly and enhance the fluid movement of the wave patterns, giving the design its signature softness and vibrance,' she adds.
An edgy take on traditional drapes
Stylist Isha Bhansali shares some pro tips to give this style a contemporary spin: