Tamil Nadu's Kodumbalur, which was the seat of power of Irukkuvels, is an architectural marvel

The Hindu

23-05-2025

Nestled in a corner of Pudukkottai district and often overshadowed by better known temple towns in Tamil Nadu, Kodumbalur holds a distinct place in the history of Tamils. The Sangam era literary work Silapadikaram refers to it as a place situated on the way to Madurai, the capital of Pandyas, from Woraiyur, the Chola capital. It is referred to as Konattu kodi nagaram (the capital city of Konadu) in Periyapuranam.
Situated about 40 km from Tiruchi, Kodumbalur was the seat of power of Irukkuvels (Velirs), known for their military prowess and patronage of art and architecture. The powerful feudatory family had played a crucial role in the political landscape of the region, particularly during the reign of the Cholas. Kodumbalur, a sleepy village now, is a veritable treasure trove with temples of great beauty and architectural elements. Inscriptions in the temples carry vital information on the history of the region.
Excavation under way
The Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), which maintains the three stand-out monuments of Moovar Kovil, the Muchukundesvara Temple, and the remains of Aivar Kovil, has recently taken up excavation to trace the cultural sequence and the history of the place.
Kodumbalur is one of the 32 sites identified for excavations in the Tiruchi Circle under the ASI's Looking Beyond-Vision Statement for Excavations by 2035. The place is referred to as Kodumbai in Silapadikaram. 'We will revisit the literary references to Kodumbalur and correlate them with the present scenario,' A. Anilkumar, Superintending Archaeologist, ASI, Tiruchi Circle, had told The Hindu, while launching the excavation in January this year. The excavation has been taken up in front of the Perumal temple and Kottaikaraimedu in the village.
'We would collect archaeological data to understand the complete history of Kodumbalur,' says V. Muthukumar, Assistant Superintending Archaeologist and co-director of the excavation.
The village's most prominent landmark is the Moovar Kovil (a cluster of three temples) built around 818 CE, a testament to the architectural brilliance of the Irukkuvels. Only two of the temples remain intact and their exquisite carvings and intricate sculptures offer a glimpse into the artistic excellence of the period.
The original layout had three west-facing temples almost identical in plan and size. Of the three temples, only the southern and central ones survive, while the one on the north is preserved up to the plinth level.
Sanskrit inscription
A Sanskrit inscription engraved on the central shrine asserts that the three shrines were built by Bhuti Vikramakesari, an Irukkavel chieftain. He named the central one after himself and the two on the flanks after his queens — Karrali and Varaguna. Significantly, the inscription gives the genealogy of nine generations of the Irukkavel chiefs. The temples were small units with an Ardha Mandapa in front of the Garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum). The temples feature exquisite sculptures including those of Shiva in fierce aspects from mythology — the most famous being that of Kalantaka, the conqueror of time/death — the form in which he kicks Yama to save his devotee.
The makara toranas above the niches and friezes of bhutaganas playing different musical instruments on the top of the walls add to the charm of the structures.
The enclosure originally had 16 symmetrically located subsidiary shrines for Parivara Devatas and pillared pavilions too. A circular stone well is situated within the complex.
To the south-east of this temple complex are the remains of the Aivar Kovil or Aintali (temple of five), which were exposed by the Pudukkottai Princely State in the early decades of the 20th Century. Though the earliest inscription found on the remains is that of Chola King Aditya I (871-907 CE), historians believe that the temple must have been built by the Irukkuval chiefs.
Only the basement of a large main shrine and four subsidiary shrines with pillared hall have survived. Two flights of steps to the north and the south lead to the hall and another to the circumambulatory passage of the main shrine. One of the balustrades of steps depicts dwarf figures blowing conches. Broken architectural elements, animal friezes, and sculptures of gods and goddesses were recovered from the site.
The temple, according to the ASI, is tentatively dated to the times of Sattan Marvan (around early 9th Century CE), father of Marvan Pudi alias Bhuti Vikaramakesari. In recent years, the ASI has developed the enclosure with fencing, landscaped lawns, and basic amenities.
To the south west of the Moovar Koil is the Muchukundesvara Temple, referred to as Mudukunram in its inscriptions. According to an inscription found on a pillar, the temple was consecrated by Mahimalaya Irukkavel. There are divergent views on dating the temple, but the recent view is that it was built in the early decades of the 10th Century CE. The original structure facing east consists of a square sanctum and a small hall. Traces of four subsidiary shrines can be observed around the main shrine. A pillared hall and the Amman shrine were added and renovated during the Pandya period. A circular stone well is also seen near the temple.
Unique temple
Explaining the historical importance of Kodumbalur, R. Kalaikkovan, director, Dr. Rajamanikkanar Centre for Historical Research, Tiruchi, said it was one of the very few towns mentioned by Ilango Adigal in Silapadikaram. 'It is one of the oldest towns in Tamil Nadu, where the Velir dynasty had flourished, and had been popular since the 8th Century,' he said.
'The Velirs had been in matrimonial relationships with the Cholas continuously as testified by several inscriptions found in the Tiruchi region. They had a key role to play in most of the Chola expeditions. They patronised temples, arts and culture. Their temple architecture and sculptures are rich and distinct in style. The Aivar Kovil, known as the Panchayatana temple and famous in north India, is the only such temple in Tamil Nadu. Unfortunately, only the basement of the temple has survived. The Moovar Kovil has a rare sculpture of Shiva holding a lingam on his shoulder,' Dr. Kalaikkovan said. The excavation, he felt, would lead to significant finds. Already, brick structures and a significant number of artefacts — including gold and glass beads, coins, semi-precious stones, terracotta images and toys — have been unearthed at the site.