Neil Perry's new restaurant, brought to life in Song Bird's former nest, serves Italian classics with a side of la dolce vita

Time Out

2 days ago

If the name 'Gran Torino' rings a bell, you might be thinking of the vintage car or the Clint Eastwood movie by the same name. But now, there's another reason to remember it: Neil Perry's latest restaurant. Taking over the former home of his Cantonese diner Song Bird in the heritage-listed Gaden House in Double Bay – which recently had its final flight less than a year after its shiny big opening – Gran Torino serves up Italian classics with a modern Australian spin and that unmistakable Perry polish. Gran Torino is a one-minute walk from Perry's cream-accented flagship diner Margaret – voted the second-best steak restaurant in the world – as well as his casual outpost Next Door (get the burge r) and excellent bakery, Baker Bleu.
The elegant two-storey dining room has been reimagined by long-time collaborators, fashion designer Collette Dinnigan and food photographer Earl Carter. Think bold red accents and striking black-and-white photographs from the 1950s and '60s that adorn the walls and add a touch of la dolce vita
The menu, crafted by Perry with executive chef Richard Purdue (Margaret, ex- Rockpool, ex- Rosetta) and Margaret's current head chef Ervin Mumajesi, champions seasonal produce from Perry's trusted local suppliers. Dishes are kept authentic to highlight the freshest seafood and prime cuts of meat.
Perry says: 'The basis of all Italian cooking is to work with the seasons, so Gran Torino's menu will reflect what's available at the market each day. Antipasti and pasta to begin, followed by seafood and meat for mains. To be cooking these dishes in this beautiful dining room just feels right.'
Go with Perry's rec and kick things off with antipasti – the bresaola using thinly sliced Mishima beef topped with Reggiano, or the shaved raw artichokes and fennel, are our picks. Move on to house-made pasta like the pumpkin tortelli with burnt butter, the tagliolini with blue swimmer crab, or the agnolotti del plin that's stuffed with veal and guinea fowl (plin means 'pinch' and refers to the way the pasta is sealed).
For mains, how about a mighty 1kg bistecca alla Fiorentina, or a grilled swordfish steak? Make sure you have a separate 'dessert stomach' for classic tiramisu and bomboloni filled with vanilla cream and raspberry conserve.
The drinks list is just as enticing, with Bellinis, Martinis, Italian vermouths and Campari, plus drops from Australia to Italy and across to the Americas.
And there's more to come. In September, Neil and Samantha Perry will launch Bar Torino in the space that Bobbie's occupied. It will be a more casual Italian spot for spuntini, antipasti, pasta and larger plates, served from midday 'til late.
Got a celebratory dinner coming up? Give Gran Torino a try.