Phulkari: Colourful threads of tradition
What is phulkari?
Phulkari, which literally translates to flower work, is an embroidery originating from
Punjab
, known for its intricate floral and geometric motifs created through a darn stitch on the reverse side of handspun cotton fabric or khaddar. Common motifs include grain plumes, paisleys and rural tools – each representing fertility, beauty or daily life
'Phulkari is a treasured heirloom'
Symbolic of happiness and prosperity, phulkari is a story told through silk threads.
Often seen as an essential to dress up and deck up spaces in festivals, phulkari represents the vibrant Punjabi culture. 'Phulkari typically ranges from sparse floral work to the densely embroidered bagh (garden),' shares Priya Chauhan, art curator and historian.
Aman Uppal, founder of Virsa Phulkari, shares, 'Traditionally, phulkari wasn't meant to be sold. When a girl was born in the family, ladies from the family would start embroidering it for her trousseau.
The phulkari was and continues to be a treasured heirloom, passed on from one generation to the other.'
'Phulkari continues to be a treasured heirloom' (Pics: @virsaphulkari)
When phulkari is placed on modern silhouettes - like capes, draped skirts, pre-draped saris, or even structured corset blouses - it becomes a beautiful conversation between heritage and modernity
Arpita Mehta, designer
Fact sheet
Traditionally phulkari was hand-embroidered, and craftspersons didn't use a frame (adda)
Phulkari is done on khaddar (cotton), crepe, chinon and georgette
To make a
hand-embroidered phulkari
dupatta, it may take seven to eight months
Using the traditional reverse-stitching technique, craftspersons craft vibrant patterns that come to life on the front of the fabric
One of the phulkaris has 52 motifs in a single dupatta, called bawan bagh. Chopte phulkari is an incomplete design, a corner of which is left undone, signifying prosperity. Khadar de bagh may have a full village scene depicted on it
- Inputs from Aman Uppal, founder of Virsa Phulkari, a phulkari brand
Manpreet Kaur Patti is working on the revival of traditional phulkari (Pics: @phulkarihouse)
'Phulkari is a festival and wedding essential for the Punjabis'
Phulkari-embroidered articles and clothes continue to be a showstopper in Punjabi weddings and festivals. 'Today, artisans embroider luxurious base fabrics like brocade and velvet for phulkari articles, setting a rich foundation for the embroidery,' shares Shagun Bawa, founder of Pataaree Studios, a bespoke design company making phulkari bridal chadars, mithai boxes, wedding favours & potlis.
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Phulkari-embroidered articles and clothes continue to be a showstopper in Punjabi weddings and festivals (Pics: @pataaree)
Phulkari 2.0
Designer Arpita Mehta, who designed Rakul Preet's pre-wedding phulkari outfit, says, 'The craft has such a rich, emotional resonance; it's colourful, and instantly impactful. What is exciting is giving the craft a fresh context, like combining it with mirrorwork.' Aman adds, 'To cater to the young generation, it is being done using bold-coloured threads.'
Saurabh Gupta, founder of Kalki Fashion India, says, 'Phulkari is actually a narrative told through threads. Its making is a slow process, involving detailed work—and that's what makes it so special. We have started blending phulkari into modern silhouettes like jacket palazzo suits'
Making phulkari cool for the current generation (Pics: @murgabi.in)
Did You Know: Phulkari pieces have 'deliberate' flaws as nazar battu
Those who make phulkari often leave at least one flaw in their piece –intentionally – to ward off nazar. 'Makers deliberately include a misplaced stitch or an odd colour in phulkari to act as a nazar battu,' says Priya, adding, 'There's a folk belief that an intentional 'flaw' protects the wearer or their family from envy or misfortune. Many also believe that perfection can attract unwanted attention.'
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