Luxury's split between winners and losers is only getting wider
In the case of the Louis Vuitton and Tiffany & Co. owner, the stock has lost roughly half of its value over the past two years, losing its crown of Europe's biggest stock, with investors increasingly worried about an unprecedented demand slump in China. Hermes shares, on the other hand, are weathering the broader industry pullback. After a 160% jump since the end of 2020, the stock is little changed this year versus a 7% drop in Goldman Sachs Group Inc.'s basket of luxury shares.
In the current economic context, pricing power is critical, said Helen Jewell, Europe, Middle East and Africa chief investment officer at BlackRock Fundamental Equities. 'The challenge for investors has been some of the names that we thought had greater brand strength, and it turned out they actually didn't,' she said, adding that there could be some buying opportunities after the selloff in the sector 'but you do need to be selective.'
For the sector as a whole, the difference is stark between now and the 2021 to 2023 boom times, when investors were rushing to snap up any European luxury shares as they reaped the profits from shoppers on a post-pandemic spending spree. But with China's sluggish economy putting a dent into demand for pricey handbags and watches, investors are buying shares in the brands that can captivate consumers and selling the ones that can't.
Among this year's winners, shares in Burberry have surged more than 30%. The UK fashion brand is gaining traction with its turnaround plan and winning new customers through its outwear push.
To some investors, luxury valuations are still too high overall even after this year's plunge in a number of stocks. The industry has an average forward price-earnings ratio of 27, according to data compiled by Bloomberg. That's a near 85% premium to the broader market and above the long-term premium from the past 10 years.
'This is a sector that is fully exposed to tariffs and fully exposed to the weaker dollar,' said Roland Kaloyan, head of European equity strategy at Societe Generale SA. 'It's going to be quite difficult, so I stick to my underweight.'
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