Exploring the wilds of the Hebrides by day - and lapping up luxury by night

The Courier

17 hours ago

I'm standing on deck in my socks as the grey water churns and salt sprays into my eyes, not noticing that my feet are getting soaked.
Why?
Dolphins!
Leaping all around our ship – a former Norwegian rescue vessel, the Elizabeth G – is a pod of at least six huge, sleek bottlenose dolphins, playing and diving in the waves.
My partner Steve and I were dozing in our cosy cabin when wildlife guide Rebecca came to fetch us.
Thank goodness she did. We wouldn't have wanted to miss this magical moment.
All the guests on board – there are six of us, out of a potential eight on this vessel – are enchanted.
This is the first cetacean sighting we've had on our six-night 'Idyllic Islands' cruise around the Inner Hebrides – but it won't be the last.
Let me rewind.
The cruise sets off in style from Oban on Saturday afternoon. All our luggage is taken on board a few hours earlier and stowed neatly in our cabins prior to arrival.
That means by the time our little band of guests arrives, all that's left to do is a short safety briefing before lifting anchor.
But first, 4pm prosecco and a homemade sweet treat! A daily occurrence on board, I'm delighted to discover.
This is a great chance for the group to get acquainted. After all, we're going to be in close quarters for the next six nights and seven days.
I'm always curious about the types of people who go on trips like this, and this group is a proper mixed bag.
It comprises myself and Steve (two 30-something young professionals), Alec and Pip (a retired couple who now run a B&B in the Lake District), Cathy (a retired teacher with an adventurous spirit) and Thomas, a married dad-of-two here to take photos.
Add on the crew – experienced skipper and Hebrides Cruises owner Rob Barlow, second skipper Iain Malcolm, longtime steward Craig Robison, new wildlife guide Rebecca and new chef Sally Williams, it's a busy little boat indeed.
Or ship, I should say. Rob tells us the difference is that a ship has a deck you can walk all the way around.
A man of few words during the days' sailing, he's a treasure trove of a maritime knowledge, and spends a few evening entertaining us with his seafaring tales.
After departing Oban on the first day, we steam up the Sound of Mull, taking in the sights from either the upper decks (wrapped up against the wind) or the large windows of the indoor common area.
We anchor for the night at Loch na Drom Buidhe, a beautifully tranquil sea loch near Oronsay. It's perfect, a still shelter. I don't think I've ever been anywhere so quiet.
Dinner the first night – as every night – is sublime.
Sally cooks relentlessly, feeding us hot breakfasts in the morning of eggs, sausages or smoked salmon; light lunches bursting with fresh veggies and filo pastry; beautiful homemade bakes at teatime, and elaborate, four-course evening meals featuring the best of local produce – hand-dived scallops, fresh oysters and mussels.
Wine flows plentifully (included in the package) with Craig filling up everyone's glasses before they can even approach empty.
This is where the real luxury of the Hebrides Cruises experience lies. Calm waters can't be promised, nor good weather, nor legroom. But not once do we want for anything.
Our every need and desire has been anticipated, from the well-designed cabin bathrooms with toilet paper covers to stop the shower getting it wet (genius) to the expertly mapped out routes (responding to conditions and explained each evening), right down to the onboard supply of sunscreen and seasickness medicine.
They also have a fully stocked bar, for those who wish to imbibe.
But each day we're up at 7am, and in bed by 9pm, happily shattered by the day's adventures – both environmental and gastronomical.
There's no need to think, only to enjoy.
Which brings me to the real point of the cruise – the scenery, and the wildlife, which guide Rebecca is on the ball with pointing out.
The ship tracks roughly around Mull, with stops on land every day, which we get to by tender. Each one feels like a different world.
We explore the magical, mossy forests of community-owned island Ulva, with white-tailed sea-eagles wheeling above at dizzying heights.
I've never been so grateful to have brought binoculars.
The group scrambles over the craggy peaks of millionaire-owned Gometra, stunned by the population of giant ravens keeping watch over the wild, treeless land.
There's a landing on the eerie, grassy isle of Inch Kenneth, and of course the stunningly spiritual Iona, where Christianity in Britain is said to have originated and the white sand beaches look more Caribbean than Scottish.
For me, a highlight is a sunny afternoon spent on Lunga. One of the Treshnish Isles, this island is uninhabited – by humans, at least.
But there we encounter an enormous puffin colony nesting on the cliff edge. Steve and I happily while away several hours watching the tiny, clown-like birds go about their cartoonish business.
Another heart-bursting wildlife sighting comes at Mull's Loch Spelve. We stop here because it's a prime spot for otter sightings, and we're not disappointed.
Not one, not two, but three Eurasian otters, hunting, playing and snoozing. For animal lovers, seeing these amazing creatures in their natural habitat is beyond special.
Out at sea, there's plenty of opportunity for wildlife spotting too. Our group sees seals, a minke whale, porpoises, and countless seabirds including gannets, cormorants and shags.
On a night, the stars are incomprehensible. Have you ever looked at the night sky so long, you think you might fall right into it?
Below, fluorescent moon jellyfish set the water softly aglow.
By the time we've circled Mull, spending our last evening anchored at Jurassic-looking Kerrera, it feels like we've been on some far-flung voyage.
We've not gone far, but we've seen so much.
We leave the cruise significantly rounder, and forever changed inside.
Today I'm still dreaming of the dolphins, the stars – and Sally's homemade treacle tart.