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The 9 best men's dress shoes for stepping out in style and comfort

The 9 best men's dress shoes for stepping out in style and comfort

Dress shoes don't have to be stuffy or relegated to the odd wedding or other formal occasion you find yourself attending. They're actually a very versatile footwear category that can elevate your everyday style and still be appropriate for more formal occasions. Knowing what to look for in both the type of shoe and how they're made is key to finding a high-quality dress shoe within your budget.
This guide highlights some of the best in dress shoes for men, from the least formal — loafers — to the most formal, wholecut Oxfords, with some others that range between these two. That is, brogue wingtips, dress boots, Bluchers, and monk straps. We've also included both a high-end Oxford from the legendary American brand Allen Edmonds that's worth the monetary investment, and a more budget-friendly pair from Florsheim, which are still manufactured with high standards using time-tested techniques.
We've thoroughly tested these dress shoes that will have you looking sharp, feeling confident, and will last for years with a little TLC on your part.
Best Oxford: Ace Marks Wholecut Oxford
A wholecut Oxford offers one of the dressiest shoe options out there with its closed lacing system, refined profile, and sleek style that pairs well with everything from a tux to a business suit to more casual separates. Ace Marks offers an exceptional Plain Toe Wholecut Oxford, which the DTC brand handcrafts in Italy from a luxurious hand-dyed and burnished calfskin leather and includes key details like a leather lining, stacked leather heel, and Blake stitching so the shoes can be resoled when the time comes (although based on our testing these Oxfords that run true to size will last you years before you'll need it).
Best for comfort: Cole Haan Zerogrand Remastered Wingtip Oxfords
Cole Haan's Zerogrand Remastered Wingtip Oxfords masterfully combine the elevated style of wingtip Oxford dress shoes with the comfort of sneakers in one stunning package that doesn't require breaking in. I walked two miles in these straight out of the box and my feet felt fine, with no pinching, rubbing, or blisters — and they've only gotten more comfortable over longer wearing periods, including an eight-mile walk around Manhattan.
Best Brogue: Beckett-Simonon Yates Oxfords
The brogue dress shoe features perforated leather detailing, and whether it's a full brogue wingtip — with a point at the center of the toe cap and wings running along the sides — a half-brogue, with broughing at the cap toe, along the shoe's edges, and with a medallion, or a quarter brogue, which doesn't feature a medallion, these various iterations add visual appeal to your footwear. The Durant Oxfords are full-brogue wingtips handcrafted in Columbia under ethical conditions, feature full-grain Italian leather, gorgeous details and craftsmanship, break in easily, and are made to order, which allows the company to offer a superior shoe at a reasonable price. (Note: Beckett-Simonon shoes are made to order and include 150 steps in the manufacturing process, which means it can take between six to eight weeks for delivery, but it's worth the wait).
Best Loafer: Marc Nolan Abe Penny Loafers
Loafers, whether bit, tassel, or penny, are the warm weather shoes that offer an elegant way to dress up a casual outfit or make a suit seem a bit less stodgy, and the penny loafers from the DTC brand Marc Nolan do the job exceptionally well with 11 different options in eye-catching colorways and materials. They exude summer fun without losing a sense of sophistication thanks to their top-notch materials, like calfskin leather and sheepskin suede, and are easy to break in, very comfortable due to memory foam insoles, and can be worn with or without socks.
Best Budget Dress Shoe: Florsheim Midtown Cap Toe Oxford
Andrew Amelinckx
Florsheim's Midtown cap toe Oxfords nicely balance price with quality that, like all the footwear I've tried from the brand, hold up well, with the bonus that they're really comfortable for all-day wear and are available at Famous Footwear. For $125 you get a great looking dress shoe made from leather sourced from environmentally responsible tanneries with Goodyear welted construction (meaning it can be resoled), plus tons of cushioning, and they'll hold up well for years if properly cared for.
Best Luxury: Allen Edmonds Park Avenue Oxford
The word iconic gets thrown around a lot, but in the case of American heritage brand Allen Edmonds and its Park Avenue cap toe Oxford, it's an apt description and while they're considered luxury, the craftsmanship and top-notch materials justify the cost. They handcraft these timeless dress shoes in Wisconsin using 212 steps, European calfskin, Goodyear welting, and cork insoles that mold to the shape of your foot over time, making for a refined pair of Oxfords that deliver a comfortable wearing experience, will last decades, and can be recrafted down the road.
Best Dress Boot: Idrese Galahad Jodhpur boots
Idrese is a direct-to-consumer shoe company that handcrafts its footwear in Spain, and while it specializes in letting the customer design their own shoes and boots — that's what I did with a pair of Jodhpurs that I absolutely love and fit my feet perfectly — the company also has ready to wear items like the Galahad jodhpurs. Idrese uses supple Italian calfskin leather, Goodyear welting, and a sleek profile for an elevated take on this boot style that includes a strap and buckle near the top.
Best Derby: Moral Code Chase Derby
Best Monk Strap: Thursday Boots the Saint Double Monk Strap
With their rich history dating back centuries to their modern appeal as an alternative to less fashion-forward Oxfords, monk strap dress shoes — with their unique straps and buckles (one or two) rather than laces — look as good with a contemporary suit as they do with nice jeans, so they won't get dusty waiting for formal occasions to be worn. The DTC footwear brand Thursday Boots makes the Saint double-monk strap from sleek full-grain leather using Blake stitching, with straps that are sturdy, stay in place, and have a good range of adjustability for a tighter or looser fit — and all with a minimal break-in period.
What to consider when shopping
There are a few important factors to consider when looking for dress shoes that will last you years. The shoes should be made of high-quality leather rather than a synthetic material (unless you're morally opposed to it). The shoes should have either Goodyear welting or Blake stitching, rather than being cemented, as you see with sneaker construction. These two old-school techniques for attaching the upper to the sole, allow you to have them resoled down the line.
FAQs
What's the difference between Oxfords and Derbies?
Oxford have closed lacing, meaning the part of the shoe called the quarters, where the laces go, are sewn under the vamp (front part of the shoe) making for a sleeker shoe that's considered more formal than Derbies. The latter type of shoe has open lacing, meaning the quarters are sewn over the vamp, which gives the shoes a more relaxed look and allows for greater ease of movement.
How do I care for leather dress shoes?
There are a few simple steps to keeping your dress shoes looking sharp. Depending on how often you wear them, you should shine them every few weeks if they get heavy use or every few months if you don't wear them as often. First, clean them with saddle soap, then use a moisturizing cream polish, and if you're looking for a high shine, use a wax polish. Here are the six you should use.
Can dress shoes be resoled?
Quality dress shoes should be made with either Goodyear welting or Blake stitching, two methods for attaching the sole to the upper. Both of these methods allow for a professional cobbler to resole your dress shoes.
Are expensive dress shoes worth it?
It depends on what your needs are and whether you're willing to invest the money. If you can afford to, you should buy a well-crafted, timeless style of dress shoe rather than a cheaper fast-fashion pair that uses glue instead of Goodyear welting or Blake stitching. A high-quality pair can last years, if not decades, if properly cared for, while cheaply made ones won't last nearly as long.
How do I break in new dress shoes without pain?
There are a few tricks you can use to break in new dress shoes. If you aren't in a big hurry you can do it over several days starting by wearing them indoors for 30 minutes or so and then over the next few days, wear them for incrementally longer periods, both inside and outside. Comfortable socks also help and if you know you're prone to getting blisters on certain parts of your feet, you can stick adhesive bandages on the problem spot until your new shoes become comfortable.

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Working out without working hard
Working out without working hard

Business Insider

time37 minutes ago

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Working out without working hard

Every generation has its own version of the vibrating belt machine — the '50s-era contraption that promised to literally shake housewives into shape with minimal effort (and effect). This perpetual fitness obsession is why, on a recent Friday in June, I found myself strapped into the 2025 iteration: an electro-muscle stimulation suit. For 15 minutes, sporting an outfit that had me looking like a cross between Uma Thurman in "Kill Bill" and a Transformer, I lunged, squatted, and pressed around a compact, chic-ish space as the getup intermittently sent little electrical impulses through my body. At first, I cackled as the EMS suit gripped and vibrated me every few seconds as I attempted to move. By the end, I came to dread the waves — it felt like a shock collar people put on dogs to stop them from breaking out of the yard. Despite my discomfort, the premise of the whole thing was enticing: EMS suits supposedly give you the same results in 25 minutes as you would get from working out for four hours, at least according to the fitness studios that market them. The quest to work out without actually doing much work is eternal. We know that exercise has all sorts of benefits. It's good for our hearts, our muscles, our minds. It increases energy, helps us live longer, and prevents disease. In a society that glorifies fit bodies, exercise can help keep things aesthetically in check. The problem is that exercise isn't always the most fun endeavor, at least by many people's estimations. So we find ourselves looking for shortcuts to reap the muscular rewards for a fraction of the sweat equity. Companies are happy to oblige, offering up all sorts of quick fixes. Whether much of this works, fitness-wise, is doubtful, but psychologically, the ploys are effective. "Our capitalistic culture of fitness has really morphed into sellable life hacks, and the process has become transactional for many," says Sam Zizzi, a professor who focuses on sport and exercise physiology at West Virginia University. He compares these various fitness shortcuts to a lottery ticket. You know chances are slim to none that you'll get the winning Powerball ticket, but you buy one anyway just in case. Who doesn't want to hack their way to health, especially in an era of extreme instant gratification — and Ozempic? American fitness culture is intertwined with the American idea of individualism: You pull yourself up by your bootstraps, and success depends on individual commitment and will. An equally powerful American tradition is the desire to have something for nothing, explains Natalia Mehlman Petrzela, a history professor at The New School who's the author of "Fit Nation: The Gains and Pains of America's Exercise Obsession." We want to believe that there's a magical product right around the corner that will grant us miraculous results with only a small bit of input on our part. "Both of these ideas are equally powerful in making American fitness culture so long-standing," she says. It's human nature to gravitate toward shortcuts. People may think of some of the quick-fix stuff as relics of the past, like the aforementioned vibrating belt machines marketed to women in the mid-20th century, when it was thought that exercise wasn't just unbecoming of women but potentially dangerous. There were also later developments that followed in the belt's wake, like the sauna suits of the 1970s and the ab belts of the '90s. These concepts persist, just in different formats. There are the shaking weights that promise to rattle your bicep curls into overdrive, vibrating platforms for you to balance on to turbocharge your squats, and sculpting machines that promise to boost your glutes without you having to do a single squat. "It's human nature to gravitate toward shortcuts," says Cedric Bryant, the president and CEO of the American Council on Exercise. Those shortcuts sound nice, but the research on many of them is limited, and where it does exist, it's often conducted or paid for by the companies selling the products. "The concern with all of these gadgets is that, similar to supplements for weight loss and health benefits, there is no, or at least very little, data and strong comprehensive studies that show, yes, this is going to be beneficial," says Jessica Bartfield, a clinical associate professor of weight management at Wake Forest University's School of Medicine. ACE has commissioned research institutions to test the claims of many of these low-effort, heavily marketed products, Bryant says, and for the most part, they've found many offer marginal benefit at best. And none are a substitute for a comprehensive, regular program of physical activity. "The science behind most of these products is weak, often anecdotal, and almost always overhyped," he says. The effects these products do have aren't particularly impressive. Take the example of electromagnetic body sculpting treatments, such as Emsculpt, which are supposed to tighten muscle and burn fat. One review of the literature on the practice found that patients' measurements decreased by 2.9 millimeters on average, or about a 10th of an inch. "That doesn't seem like very much," says Melanie Jay, the director of the NYU Langone Comprehensive Program on Obesity. It doesn't give you the same benefits as exercise or losing weight and maintaining weight loss. In response to a request for comment, a spokesperson for BTL Aesthetics, the maker of Emsculpt, sent along a pair of presentations from the company touting the product's ability to increase muscle strength, prevent muscle loss, and enhance flexibility. They also pushed back on the conclusions drawn by the 2022 literature review, arguing in part that its data largely encompasses the Emsculpt, not the newer Emsculpt Neo (though two of the studies the independent paper cites include the newer version as well). They put me in touch with two doctors to vouch for the device — Jonathan Schoeff, of Rocky Mountain Advanced Spine Access, and Eugene Lou, from Minivasive Orthopedics. Schoeff said that the Emsculpt is a powerful tool to "direct metabolic change" though he advises patients it's not a replacement for the gym. Lou said the device "absolutely can be" a replacement for exercise, citing the positive experience of two of his patients in rehab settings. Schoeff is a paid educational consultant for BTL and participated in research sponsored by the company. Lou is a paid speaker for the company. Leah Verebes, a physical therapist and assistant professor at Touro University, notes that studies and independent reviews indicate that the fat loss effects of Emsculpt are modest and often within the margin of error. "Overall, Emsculpt is best suited for functional wellness and rehabilitation, not significant weight loss or body contouring," she says. She had comparable thoughts on EMS suits, like the one I tried: they have some potential in the rehab world, but their fitness value outside that is more about getting the ball rolling on a behavioral shift. In other words, if the shocking suit gets me off the couch, fine, but otherwise, I can move on. Verebes is similarly agnostic on the Shake Weight, an as-seen-on-TV classic. It's better than nothing, and the shaking may recruit more muscles than a regular weight, but it's not a replacement for a regular strength routine. "I think you might look a little funny with the Shake Weight, but you know what? If it's getting somebody who normally would just sit on the couch and flex their elbow bringing the can to their mouth, at least they're doing something that's getting their body moving," she says. Coming into this story, I expected the people I talked to to do a real LOL when I mentioned various devices, but that's not entirely what happened. Many of them seemed supportive of the idea that if a wacky little accessory is a way to get people to start doing something, so be it. But people should be realistic about how effective said devices are and whether buying them will actually change their habits. "There's a motivational piece here for people who are ready to change their health," Zizzi says. In sports psychology, motivation driven by outside factors like a new gadget or some office competition often gets "pooh-poohed," he adds, but all motivation is useful. It's just that extrinsic motivation fades fast. He points to the example of fitness trackers — when people get them, they use them and may even increase their activity, but over time that use declines. The fitness graveyard is filled with fads of the past. Who among us hasn't bought a treadmill or a bike or an ab roller, thinking, "This will finally be the thing that gets me to work out," only for it to sit in the corner and collect dust? People's starting points matter, too. Take the devices that let you pedal your legs while watching TV. "On a scale of fitness, it's a 1 out of 10 or a 2 out of 10," Zizzi says. "If you did that and you are diabetic and you don't get any other physical activity, that's probably better than telling somebody, 'Hey, you need to walk, walk 30 minutes a day, five days a week to meet guidelines, or it doesn't count.'" Of course, this isn't all just harmless. Some of these products may hurt people — the supermodel Linda Evangelista said she experienced rare but severe side effects after undergoing CoolSculpting, which is supposed to freeze away fat. Basically, all fitness-related contraptions come with some sort of disclosure or require you to sign something saying that if you get injured or die, it's on you. Jay, from NYU, says she's never recommended one of these treatment hacks to patients. "Maybe if they're trying to decide between a tummy tuck or one of these, I don't know. A tummy tuck is probably more effective, but of course, the risks and the downtime might be higher," she says. But that's not really the point. "The bigger point is that it doesn't give you the same benefits as exercise or losing weight and maintaining weight loss." If I decided I absolutely could not live without the EMS suit, it would probably be an OK addition to my normal workout routine. But I shouldn't try to get by on less than half an hour of exercise once a week. As Verebes said, these sorts of workouts might be better suited to particular applications. Bryant notes that EMS could be helpful for people recovering from an injury because "it helps to restore the connection between the nervous systems and the muscles." For a healthy person, however, the benefit is "going to be much less dramatic." Even the experts and their loved ones aren't immune to this stuff. Jay bought a vibrating platform, but she got really dizzy on it, so she gave it away. Mehlman Petrzela's son bought an ab belt he saw on TikTok. The modern narrative around fitness is that it's not just about being thin — it's about being strong, healthy, and fit at any weight. But underneath all that is an enduring truth: People want to look conventionally attractive. Those attitudes feed the tricks that have long plagued the fitness industry. People get duped by supplements that supposedly burn fat while they sleep and vests that claim to sculpt abs while they sit on the couch, not because they're actually trying to improve their fitness levels, but because they're looking for a shortcut to an aesthetic goal that's often unattainable. "There can be a lot of misinformation, a lot of gimmicks or gadgets or supplements where they make some promises and there is no evidence, no data, to support them," Bartfield says. Social media doesn't help the situation. It places unrealistic aesthetic expectations in front of us all the time — and lets companies sell us endless ways to attempt to achieve them in 10- or 15-second video bites. My Instagram knows that I'm fitness-curious and weight-conscious; it's filled with ads for weight-loss drugs and quick-fix fitness gear. I regularly exchange various hacky fitness ads with friends. The (very skinny) elephant in the room here is the rise of GLP-1 weight-loss drugs. Exercise can be arduous and hard. Going to the gym often isn't an instantly gratifying activity. Beyond the overarching purpose that is long-term health, you don't really noticeably accomplish anything with a single run on the treadmill or one set of squats. It's natural that people would rather skip to the fun part of nailing that summer body without sweating it out in a spin class on a frigid day in March. "People are wired for these fast, easy solutions, and your brain naturally goes toward the area of least resistance," Verebes says. The (very skinny) elephant in the room here is the rise of GLP-1 weight-loss drugs such as Wegovy (which is the same as Ozempic) and Zepbound (Mounjaro) that really do seem to deliver miracles. They help people with obesity lose weight and, as long as they keep taking the drugs, keep it off. For many people, these drugs can make a real change to their lives. These pretty miraculous drugs may have people looking for miracles elsewhere, which obesity doctors and fitness trainers warn against. GLP-1s need to be accompanied by healthier diets and exercise routines, especially since they can lead to muscle loss. Being thin is not synonymous with being in great shape. "We certainly do not want people to think that you can lose weight, and that equals health," Bartfield says. "There's the idea of nutritional quality, the idea of body composition, right? Maintaining muscle mass." In what would be shocking news to my younger self, I genuinely enjoy exercise. As a person who also likes to eat and drink a fair amount (a fact that would not be a surprise to younger me), I work out most days of the week as part of a perpetual balancing act. But I'm also not immune to the appeal of shortcuts. In my 20s, I tried to work while sitting on an exercise ball, but I had to stop because I couldn't stop myself from slightly bouncing up and down as I typed and making myself nauseous. A few years ago, at the advice of my mother, I spent a couple of thousand dollars on CoolSculpt, which, as far as I could tell, had little effect. I've gone farther down the GLP-1 "microdosing" research rabbit hole than I'd like to admit, though the price tag always scares me off. I don't want to work out with no work, but I'd like to work out with less work. Fitness isn't as easy as diet and exercise. It's also not something that people can hack their way into. To reap the benefits of exercise, you kind of have to exercise. That doesn't mean running a marathon, but it doesn't mean vibrating the fat cells away, either. The good news is that the simplest stuff is cheap or free — go for a walk, lift a weight, find an activity you like. The bad news is that it requires time and effort that a quick-fix mentality doesn't allow for. In the days after my little EMS suit adventure, I was a little sore, indicating the device probably did something. But I won't be going back. The price point was not within my budget — membership at the studio I went to was $225 a month, and you can do it only once a week, which means more than $50 a class. Plus, as mentioned, the intermittent shocking really was not for me. I'll be doing things the old-fashioned way, one weight and stride at a time, until an ad inevitably gets me once again, and I'm testing out the 2026 version of the vibrating belt.

This Mountaintop Home in Switzerland Is a Modern Take on a Classic Alpine Chalet
This Mountaintop Home in Switzerland Is a Modern Take on a Classic Alpine Chalet

Yahoo

timea day ago

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This Mountaintop Home in Switzerland Is a Modern Take on a Classic Alpine Chalet

You don't need a massive plot of land or over-the-top design to make a powerful statement in real estate—especially not in the Swiss Alps. This boxy, three-story home and its detached carport cut striking figures among the dense greenery of the Alpine landscape during the summer and the glimmering white snow during winter. The dark-stained larch wood siding will only get darker over time through exposure to the elements, while the steep pitch of the solar-equipped standing seam metal roof helps keep snow from piling up and wood slats over some windows offer privacy while maintaining the views from inside. More from Robb Report Art Dealer Barbara Gladstone's Elegant Manhattan Row House Lists for $12 Million A Carefully Reimagined Midcentury Oasis in the Pacific Palisades Lists for $25 Million This $24 Million Boston Home Doubles as an Art Gallery Designed by the firm Montalba Architects as a modern homage to a classic architectural trope, the home is built into the hillside and angled to take in the best view of the 10,000-foot-tall Grand Muveran. Drawing inspiration from the shape of traditional chalets, the residence has been rethought with an open floor plan, vast picture windows, and clean-lined midcentury-inspired furnishings. Constructed over just 10 months, Montalba worked with a local builder to complete the property. All of the millwork, including the angular staircase, was also done in collaboration with local carpenters and cabinet makers. Many of the furnishings came from Switzerland as well, with additional pieces curated from throughout Europe and California. RELATED: A London-Based Designer Brought Italian Style to This Pint-Sized Apartment in the Swiss Alps It's a style of sourcing that mirrors the other work of Montalba, an international firm with offices in Los Angeles, New York, and Lausanne. The company was founded back in 2004 by the Swiss-American architect David Montalba, and it draws on Swiss precision and California Modernism to create properties that evoke both styles. Modest in size at just 2,600 square feet, the Alpine abode takes advantage of lighter woods and neutral tones that contrast with the dark, moodier exterior. The main living spaces are on the middle floor and include a living room with a Nero Marquina marble fireplace and a cozy Ligne Roset sofa and armchairs. In the dining area, the tables is from Moyard, and the light-filled kitchen opens to a small patio on the home's east side. The top floor is largely for sleeping. The primary suite has a covered balcony and private bath, and two guest rooms share an additional bathroom with a shower sheathed in the same marble used on the downstairs fireplace. The lowest level, which is embedded into the mountainside, has a studio space with a separate entrance, as well as a small sauna and storage of Robb Report The 10 Priciest Neighborhoods in America (And How They Got to Be That Way) In Pictures: Most Expensive Properties Click here to read the full article.

‘Walking Alongside' American Designer Claire McCardell in New Book
‘Walking Alongside' American Designer Claire McCardell in New Book

Yahoo

timea day ago

  • Yahoo

‘Walking Alongside' American Designer Claire McCardell in New Book

'Good fashion earns its right to be remembered.' Those words weren't just spoken by Claire McCardell, but she lived up to them too. Elizabeth Evitts Dickinson's new book, 'Claire McCardell: The Designer Who Set Women Free,' spells that out again and again. Progressive as a working woman, McCardell helped to pioneer American fashion, after studying at Parsons and living in Paris for a stretch. Her specialty was practical, stylish, affordable clothes that women could move through their days. McCardell's breakthrough look in 1938 was the Monastic dress, which flattered a range of body types. More from WWD Louis Vuitton Names Jeremy Allen White as Brand Ambassador Kering Eyewear Acquires Italian Manufacturer Lenti LVMH and Google Executives Talk Agentic AI, Cybersecurity and Navigating Volatility Ballet flats, separates, the shirtwaist dress, spaghetti straps on evening gowns, strapless swimsuits and athletic-friendly designs were among her creations. She also made leotards popular. As McCardell told Betty Friedan in her magazine writing days, 'You have to design for the lives American women lead today.' While many associate sportswear with the second generations designers like Calvin Klein, Halston and Donna Karan, the author noted how McCardell forged the path. Although her label was not carried forward after her death in 1958 at the age of 52, Dickinson said the lack of the magnitude of her influence was more due to 'the societal clapback about women being at the forefront of the industry. We've forgotten a lot of those women's names unfairly,' she said. Dickinson said, 'She never wanted to be out of the trenches. She enjoyed the work. Even when she was famous enough, well-off enough and partner in her firm, it was suggested that she take a step back, [but] that never appealed to her. She really was an inventor and an artist.' As much about McCardell's life as it is about her career, the Simon & Schuster biography will be released June 17. Dickinson will speak Thursday at a ticketed event at the New York Historical, which will be followed by a book launch at the Maryland Center for History and Culture on June 17 and an appearance at the Frenchtown Bookshop in Frenchtown, N.J., on June 24. Reading McCardell's writing, transcribing McCardell's archival letters and 'triangulating' them to cultural events and geographic locations enabled Dickinson to hear her voice and visualize her life at that time. Esoteric as that might sound, the author manages to relay McCardell's upbringing, career, marriage and pursuits with historical footnotes and entertaining asides. 'I wanted it to feel like you were walking alongside McCardell and not like you were spending time with a biographer telling you about her.' Pragmatism was paramount to all that she did. Dickinson said, 'She always had the lived experience of the woman in mind so that everything she was designing had a reason. She really wanted to be remembered for making clothes that changed people's lives and helped women to be more autonomous, ambitious, comfortable and confident.' Those reasons were aplenty such as creating a detachable hood to replace the hassle of traveling on an airplane with a hat, designing pockets to stash fidgety hands when speaking to her boss and generously cut dresses to allow subway riders to grab a straphanger without tearing her clothes. 'She was always thinking about the reality of living and moving through the world as a woman,' Dickinson said. While working at what is now known as the Maryland Center for History and Culture in the late 1990s, the author's first encounter with the designer was through an exhibition. Fresh out of college with no idea of who McCardell was or that she was one of the reasons behind much of what hangs in our closets, Dickinson said, 'I knew very little about the sportswear movement, and the women like Claire, who in the 1920s and '30s, were really building American fashion. I remember standing there in a really unfortunate suit that I'd been talked into buying by a salesperson. We've all been there. It doesn't fit. It's not comfortable. The color is trendy, but it's not good on you. And it didn't have pockets,' she recalled. 'I remember thinking, 'How did we go backward?'' Moreover, Dickinson questioned how the industry appears to have slid back again with men being installed as the creative directors of luxury houses — including Dior, Chanel and Gucci. But back to McCardell. What hooked the author was how McCardell's show made her question what women are expected to wear, why that is the case and who is dictating those mandates. 'Whose gaze are we prioritizing? Claire always prioritized the female gaze, the wearer,' Dickinson said. The fact that women were 'pretty much required' to wear wool swim stockings on public beaches in the 1920s to avoid the seeming indecency of bare legs, was news to the author. McCardell's daringness, as a teenager, to take her swim stockings off to take a plunge endeared her to the author. 'I loved that she was trying to push back on things that she thought were unreasonable,' Dickinson said. Another revelation in her research was just how difficult it was for a young single woman to maneuver her way around New York City without a male escort. 'I was fascinated to learn how art clubs and other places [like the Fashion Group International] emerged to support women like Claire and how Claire, in turn, tried to help other women throughout her career to find their footing in the city and in the industry,' she said. Readers will learn how the designer was at the nexus of a constellation of a lot of extraordinary women and entrepreneurs [like Elizabeth Hawes, Eleanor Lambert and Bonnie Cashin]. 'This really is the story of a group of women working together to build an industry,' Dickinson said. 'She was often years ahead of her time. She invented separates in 1934 and she kept at it, so that by the 1940s she got them out there. As one person I interviewed said, 'She is one of the most under appreciated, but important designers of the 20th century.' McCardell also approached her collection tactically. So much so that she once deconstructed a Vionnet dress that she bought at a Paris sample sale in the 1920s to get a better understanding of how it was made. That was all the more telling, given that American design students at that time were learning more about how to draw clothes than how they worked, Dickinson said. McCardell's personal archives include reams of letters from not just fans, the famous and customers. Amongst them was a lengthy handwritten one in which the writer said a McCardell suit failed her during an Italian vacation that she had saved up to go on for years. Dickinson said, 'I think she saved it to remind herself, who she worked for. She surely went back to [review] the design, to the manufacturer and to the fabric to figure out how to fix it.' When World War II called for rationing, McCardell made the most of every scrap of fabric for her designs, and used innovative aspects like mattress ticking and parachute materials that were left over from the military, Dickinson noted. At the request of Harper's Bazaar's editors Diana Vreeland and Carmel Snow, she created a design for American women whose lives had been upended with some pitching in with the war effort while also running their households. The 'Popover' dress in durable cotton that McCardell came up with had an oven mitt attached at the waist. More than 50,000 units of the New York made frock were sold in 1942. The designer was also a witness to history, having been one of the last designers to leave Paris before it fell to German troops. She also connected with leaders in the arts like Ernest Hemingway, and the actress Joan Crawford, who 'begged' the designer in letters to make clothes for her. And the artist Georgia O'Keefe wore her clothes. At heart, McCardell was an artist and an inventor, according to the author. To that end, the designer once said, 'I've always designed things I needed myself. It just turns out that other people need them too.' 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