Latest news with #AceMarks
Yahoo
3 days ago
- Business
- Yahoo
Where's the New Opportunity in Footwear Production? Jack Erwin President Sounds Off
Paul Farago, president of footwear brands Jack Erwin and Ace Marks, has been navigating the shifting tariff backdrop firsthand for years. More importantly, he's already seeing a structural change in footwear production, moving from central concentration to a new normal with distributed manufacturing networks and regional specialization. More from WWD Shoe Firms, Consumers Get Big Break as Trump Extends China Tariff Deadline Willy Chavarria, Adidas Issue Apology to Oaxaca Community Over Adidas Shoe Gaurav Gupta Taps René Caovilla as Exclusive Shoe Partner for Bridal Collection 'I don't believe there's a single 'new China' emerging. Rather, we're moving toward a more regionalized production model where brands maintain manufacturing relationships across multiple countries to balance costs, capabilities, and risk. This diversification strategy is more resilient but requires more sophisticated supply chain management,' he said. For more on the challenges and opportunities in global markets from Brazil and Mexico to Italy and Portugal, read on. Footwear News: The tariff plan for imports to the U.S. could continue at the temporary 30 percent rate instead of the planned 55 percent for . Will companies that have moved production out of China rethink that strategy? Paul Farago: The reduction from 55 percent to 30 percent on China tariffs is somewhat of a relief, but I don't expect to see wholesale reversals of production decisions already made. Companies that have successfully diversified their manufacturing — particularly those with established relationships in Italy, Portugal, Mexico and Brazil — have discovered benefits beyond just tariff avoidance: reduced lead times, smaller minimum orders and greater supply chain resilience. However, this tariff adjustment will likely slow the pace of new production shifts. For firms still evaluating moves away from China, a 30 percent tariff significantly changes the economic calculus, especially for mass-market products where China's volume capacity and component ecosystem remain unmatched. The lesson learned from this experience is not to have all of your eggs in one basket, and I don't think it will soon be forgotten. For countries like Vietnam, this could actually represent positive news. As flight from China loses its urgency, there's less pressure to create new manufacturing capacity in alternative locations. This could lead to more stable, sustainable growth in Vietnam's footwear sector rather than the boom-bust cycles we've seen in other countries when brands rush in during crises only to exit when conditions normalize. FN: What lessons were learned during COVID-19 that can be applied during this period? PF: COVID revealed that efficiency and resilience are often competing priorities in supply chains. The footwear brands that weathered the pandemic best weren't necessarily those with the lowest production costs, but those with diversified manufacturing relationships. The most significant lesson wasn't just about geographical diversification — it was about relationship depth. Brands with transactional supplier relationships faced the worst disruptions, while those who had invested in partnership-based manufacturing relationships received preferential treatment when capacity was constrained. The footwear industry now recognizes that concentrating production entirely in one region creates substantial vulnerability. However, the solution isn't simply relocating — it's developing flexible networks across multiple countries while acknowledging that each offers different capabilities and capacity constraints. FN: Given the specialized machinery involved, footwear manufacturing isn't an easy category where one can pick up stakes and shift production elsewhere. Do you foresee China still maintaining its position as a footwear manufacturing hub? PF: China will remain indispensable for mass-market footwear production due to its unmatched capacity and comprehensive component ecosystem. Even manufacturers in Italy, Portugal, Mexico, and Brazil depend on China for many components, creating an interconnected global production network rather than truly independent alternatives. What we're witnessing isn't China's replacement but a more nuanced evolution where different categories find their optimal production locations. Mass-market brands will continue leveraging China's scale advantages, while creating secondary capacity in places like Vietnam and Indonesia. Midtier and premium brands have more geographic flexibility, and can explore alternatives with attractive quality-to-cost ratios. The specialized machinery and infrastructure required for footwear manufacturing creates significant barriers to rapid relocation. This reality explains why, despite years of tariff pressures, we haven't seen wholesale exodus from China — the capacity simply doesn't exist elsewhere to absorb that volume. FN: Amid all of the upheaval, is there more opportunity for European footwear producers? PF: China's dominance in mass-market footwear remains undeniable, but European manufacturing represents a fundamentally different approach rather than just a higher price point. In Italy, Portugal, and Spain, we're seeing specialized expertise by product category — Italy excels in dress shoes and luxury sneakers, Portugal in casual and performance leather goods, and Spain in particular types of construction methods. Portugal, for instance, has brilliantly positioned itself as a middle ground — offering much of the craftsmanship associated with Italian production but at more accessible price points. This has made Portugal particularly attractive as tariffs have increased on Chinese goods. The real advantage these European countries offer isn't just quality — it's flexibility. When we produce a run at our Italian factories, the minimum order quantities (MOQs) are much lower allowing us to test a larger variety of product with less risk. Many suppliers also have skilled technicians on site that can do a lot of the heavy lifting when it comes to product development, and they do it fast. This responsiveness has become increasingly valuable as consumer preferences change more rapidly. As for prices, at the product level, you'd be hard-pressed to find China prices in a European country with comparable quality to China. However, when you factor in logistics costs, quality control requirements, MOQs, other operational factors, and of course the current tariff situation, what was once a huge pricing delta is now a much thinner spread that has to be seriously considered. FN: You've said that Brazil and Mexico have been manufacturing hubs for footwear for decades. What is the factory infrastructure? What is the main hurdle? PF: Brazil has maintained a robust domestic footwear industry due to its size and relative isolation, focused primarily on serving its internal market with some export capacity. Mexico's proximity to the U.S. has positioned it well for certain categories, but has also historically focused on domestic production. Both countries have very ardently protected their domestic manufacturers through the decades, which is one of the reasons that they have a footwear manufacturing infrastructure today — unlike the U.S. which used to be a footwear manufacturing hub until the '70s. The infrastructure in both countries varies significantly by region. Brazil has well-developed industrial clusters, particularly around Novo Hamburgo, with sophisticated technical capabilities. Mexico's footwear industry is concentrated in León and surrounding areas. The primary hurdles aren't necessarily technical capacity — both countries have skilled labor pools and understand footwear construction — although younger generations are not exactly flocking to work at footwear factories. The challenges are more systemic: inconsistent material supply chains, logistics infrastructure that wasn't designed for export-oriented manufacturing, and business environments that can be challenging for international brands to navigate. And they often prioritize domestic production over export as they see it as more stable, which often leads to delays and results in the deterioration of trust between foreign brands and local manufacturers. FN: For shoe imports to the U.S., how realistic is the possibility for nearshoring — given the investments needed and the time required — to build out a new manufacturing infrastructure just for footwear? PF: Nearshoring for footwear faces significant challenges but is increasingly viable for specific product categories. The economics simply don't work for mass-market athletic footwear, which requires massive scale and specialized technical capabilities currently concentrated in Asia. However, for certain types of leather footwear, particularly in the premium and luxury segments, nearshoring to Brazil, Mexico, Colombia and a few other countries in the Americas can be economically viable today. We've successfully produced dress shoes and leather casual styles in Brazil with quality comparable to our European manufacturing at competitive costs. FN: How do you think Trump's current policy might impact the thinking around footwear production in the years to come? PF: Frustratingly, one trade policy that has not seen much change over the decades with regards to footwear is the unreasonably high duty rates that existed even before the current trade challenges. Footwear production and the related logistics is so complex and often reliant on the good graces of multiple domestic and foreign governments that it feels like we are always dealing with some sort of a crisis either caused by nature, man, or government. Just in the last decade we've had to deal with currency volatility, COVID, pirates, port congestion, canal closures, haphazard testing regulations, and now tariffs just to name a few. It's a constant battle. Best of WWD All the Retailers That Nike Left and Then Went Back Mikey Madison's Elegant Red Carpet Shoe Style [PHOTOS] Julia Fox's Sleekest and Boldest Shoe Looks Over the Years [Photos]
Business Insider
10-06-2025
- Lifestyle
- Business Insider
The 9 best men's dress shoes for stepping out in style and comfort
Dress shoes don't have to be stuffy or relegated to the odd wedding or other formal occasion you find yourself attending. They're actually a very versatile footwear category that can elevate your everyday style and still be appropriate for more formal occasions. Knowing what to look for in both the type of shoe and how they're made is key to finding a high-quality dress shoe within your budget. This guide highlights some of the best in dress shoes for men, from the least formal — loafers — to the most formal, wholecut Oxfords, with some others that range between these two. That is, brogue wingtips, dress boots, Bluchers, and monk straps. We've also included both a high-end Oxford from the legendary American brand Allen Edmonds that's worth the monetary investment, and a more budget-friendly pair from Florsheim, which are still manufactured with high standards using time-tested techniques. We've thoroughly tested these dress shoes that will have you looking sharp, feeling confident, and will last for years with a little TLC on your part. Best Oxford: Ace Marks Wholecut Oxford A wholecut Oxford offers one of the dressiest shoe options out there with its closed lacing system, refined profile, and sleek style that pairs well with everything from a tux to a business suit to more casual separates. Ace Marks offers an exceptional Plain Toe Wholecut Oxford, which the DTC brand handcrafts in Italy from a luxurious hand-dyed and burnished calfskin leather and includes key details like a leather lining, stacked leather heel, and Blake stitching so the shoes can be resoled when the time comes (although based on our testing these Oxfords that run true to size will last you years before you'll need it). Best for comfort: Cole Haan Zerogrand Remastered Wingtip Oxfords Cole Haan's Zerogrand Remastered Wingtip Oxfords masterfully combine the elevated style of wingtip Oxford dress shoes with the comfort of sneakers in one stunning package that doesn't require breaking in. I walked two miles in these straight out of the box and my feet felt fine, with no pinching, rubbing, or blisters — and they've only gotten more comfortable over longer wearing periods, including an eight-mile walk around Manhattan. Best Brogue: Beckett-Simonon Yates Oxfords The brogue dress shoe features perforated leather detailing, and whether it's a full brogue wingtip — with a point at the center of the toe cap and wings running along the sides — a half-brogue, with broughing at the cap toe, along the shoe's edges, and with a medallion, or a quarter brogue, which doesn't feature a medallion, these various iterations add visual appeal to your footwear. The Durant Oxfords are full-brogue wingtips handcrafted in Columbia under ethical conditions, feature full-grain Italian leather, gorgeous details and craftsmanship, break in easily, and are made to order, which allows the company to offer a superior shoe at a reasonable price. (Note: Beckett-Simonon shoes are made to order and include 150 steps in the manufacturing process, which means it can take between six to eight weeks for delivery, but it's worth the wait). Best Loafer: Marc Nolan Abe Penny Loafers Loafers, whether bit, tassel, or penny, are the warm weather shoes that offer an elegant way to dress up a casual outfit or make a suit seem a bit less stodgy, and the penny loafers from the DTC brand Marc Nolan do the job exceptionally well with 11 different options in eye-catching colorways and materials. They exude summer fun without losing a sense of sophistication thanks to their top-notch materials, like calfskin leather and sheepskin suede, and are easy to break in, very comfortable due to memory foam insoles, and can be worn with or without socks. Best Budget Dress Shoe: Florsheim Midtown Cap Toe Oxford Andrew Amelinckx Florsheim's Midtown cap toe Oxfords nicely balance price with quality that, like all the footwear I've tried from the brand, hold up well, with the bonus that they're really comfortable for all-day wear and are available at Famous Footwear. For $125 you get a great looking dress shoe made from leather sourced from environmentally responsible tanneries with Goodyear welted construction (meaning it can be resoled), plus tons of cushioning, and they'll hold up well for years if properly cared for. Best Luxury: Allen Edmonds Park Avenue Oxford The word iconic gets thrown around a lot, but in the case of American heritage brand Allen Edmonds and its Park Avenue cap toe Oxford, it's an apt description and while they're considered luxury, the craftsmanship and top-notch materials justify the cost. They handcraft these timeless dress shoes in Wisconsin using 212 steps, European calfskin, Goodyear welting, and cork insoles that mold to the shape of your foot over time, making for a refined pair of Oxfords that deliver a comfortable wearing experience, will last decades, and can be recrafted down the road. Best Dress Boot: Idrese Galahad Jodhpur boots Idrese is a direct-to-consumer shoe company that handcrafts its footwear in Spain, and while it specializes in letting the customer design their own shoes and boots — that's what I did with a pair of Jodhpurs that I absolutely love and fit my feet perfectly — the company also has ready to wear items like the Galahad jodhpurs. Idrese uses supple Italian calfskin leather, Goodyear welting, and a sleek profile for an elevated take on this boot style that includes a strap and buckle near the top. Best Derby: Moral Code Chase Derby Best Monk Strap: Thursday Boots the Saint Double Monk Strap With their rich history dating back centuries to their modern appeal as an alternative to less fashion-forward Oxfords, monk strap dress shoes — with their unique straps and buckles (one or two) rather than laces — look as good with a contemporary suit as they do with nice jeans, so they won't get dusty waiting for formal occasions to be worn. The DTC footwear brand Thursday Boots makes the Saint double-monk strap from sleek full-grain leather using Blake stitching, with straps that are sturdy, stay in place, and have a good range of adjustability for a tighter or looser fit — and all with a minimal break-in period. What to consider when shopping There are a few important factors to consider when looking for dress shoes that will last you years. The shoes should be made of high-quality leather rather than a synthetic material (unless you're morally opposed to it). The shoes should have either Goodyear welting or Blake stitching, rather than being cemented, as you see with sneaker construction. These two old-school techniques for attaching the upper to the sole, allow you to have them resoled down the line. FAQs What's the difference between Oxfords and Derbies? Oxford have closed lacing, meaning the part of the shoe called the quarters, where the laces go, are sewn under the vamp (front part of the shoe) making for a sleeker shoe that's considered more formal than Derbies. The latter type of shoe has open lacing, meaning the quarters are sewn over the vamp, which gives the shoes a more relaxed look and allows for greater ease of movement. How do I care for leather dress shoes? There are a few simple steps to keeping your dress shoes looking sharp. Depending on how often you wear them, you should shine them every few weeks if they get heavy use or every few months if you don't wear them as often. First, clean them with saddle soap, then use a moisturizing cream polish, and if you're looking for a high shine, use a wax polish. Here are the six you should use. Can dress shoes be resoled? Quality dress shoes should be made with either Goodyear welting or Blake stitching, two methods for attaching the sole to the upper. Both of these methods allow for a professional cobbler to resole your dress shoes. Are expensive dress shoes worth it? It depends on what your needs are and whether you're willing to invest the money. If you can afford to, you should buy a well-crafted, timeless style of dress shoe rather than a cheaper fast-fashion pair that uses glue instead of Goodyear welting or Blake stitching. A high-quality pair can last years, if not decades, if properly cared for, while cheaply made ones won't last nearly as long. How do I break in new dress shoes without pain? There are a few tricks you can use to break in new dress shoes. If you aren't in a big hurry you can do it over several days starting by wearing them indoors for 30 minutes or so and then over the next few days, wear them for incrementally longer periods, both inside and outside. Comfortable socks also help and if you know you're prone to getting blisters on certain parts of your feet, you can stick adhesive bandages on the problem spot until your new shoes become comfortable.
