First look: Bait El Lowal revives Sharjah's trading past with flavours from the Silk Road

The National

13-02-2025

The scent of cardamom and saffron drifts from the kitchen of Sharjah's Bait El Lowal, echoing the UAE's past as a vital node along the Silk Road. Overlooking the Sharjah Creek and the vast Arabian Gulf, the new restaurant gazes upon the storied paths once travelled by traders from India, Persia and North Africa – their dhows laden with black pepper, turmeric, local fish and dates – some of the ingredients defining what is now known as Emirati cuisine. Opening to the public on Thursday and the brainchild of Sheikha Bodour Al Qasimi, Bait El Lowal reflects this heritage through its detailed architecture and a meticulously crafted menu inspired by the raw, fresh goods once carried in ancient cargoes. Sheikha Bodour notes that the name itself is a nod to the past travellers who found shelter – and, in some cases, a new life – upon stepping onto the shores of Sharjah. 'The name itself reflects this journey. 'Bait' means home, while 'El Lowal' is an old Emirati term for the traveller who returns, not just with goods, but with knowledge, experiences and discoveries,' she tells The National. 'For centuries, Sharjah welcomed traders and explorers from India, Persia, Morocco and beyond. Their ships docked along its shores, carrying silks, spices, and traditions that blended seamlessly with our own. 'I wanted Bait El Lowal to reflect that sense of homecoming, a place that embraces visitors as if they were returning from a long voyage, where every dish, craft and space carries echoes of the journeys that have shaped us.' Nestled in the heart of Sharjah and located off Corniche Road, Bait El Lowal sits in one of the emirate's typically culturally rich coastal neighbourhoods. It is home to the Sharjah Art Foundation, the picturesque Urban Garden, and the stunning Masjid Al Zahra, a mosque that features bright decorative tile work that is heavily influenced by Iranian-Persian design. The facade of the two-storey structure, once a century-old residence known as Bait Al Mazrou, is restored and designed to reflect traditional Emirati architecture. Its coral stone walls and carved wooden doors are materials historically chosen to insulate residents from the intense desert heat. 'Restoring Bait El Lowal was about more than preserving a building; it was about safeguarding the stories and traditions embedded in its walls,' Sheikha Bodour says. 'The house, originally home to the Al Mazrouei family, had stood for over 100 years, witnessing the movement of travellers, merchants and generations of Emirati life. The priority was to retain its character while carefully integrating elements that allow it to serve as a welcoming space for modern visitors.' Once inside, guests are transported to a stately Moroccan riad with a fountain at the centre of a tranquil central courtyard. The sunlight glimmers off the colourful Zellige tiles, casting shadows on creamy walls with Moorish horseshoe arches. The seats lining the courtyard are a mix of woven rattan chairs and cushioned benches adorned with colourful throw pillows. Inside, surrounding the courtyard, are several plush majlises featuring luxurious couches and artisanal rugs perfect for group tea sessions. Also on the ground floor is Al Kutubkhana, an on-site bookstore featuring a selection of art and history books on the region's cultural heritage, along with English translations of novels and non-fiction works by Sharjah's ruler Sheikh Dr Sultan bin Muhammad Al Qasimi that explore the emirate's past. There's also Soghat El Lowal, an arts and crafts boutique, that showcases works by local and regional artisans that embrace sustainable practices. These include Emirati hand-embroidered mkhaweer dresses, silk scarves from Uzbekistan, jewellery from India, and traditional shoes and homeware from Morocco's Amazigh culture. Al Marmas, the rooftop terrace, is stunning – featuring elegant archways and a majestic view of the Sharjah Creek. Bait El Lowal's menu is a meeting point of cultures, with each section evoking a journey across the region. Breakfast dishes are titled The Silk Road Awakens, while appetizers are dubbed Teasers – A Prelude to the Voyage. Main courses fall under Coming Back – The Journey Returns and desserts are presented as A Sweet Journey Through the Silk Road. With more than 30 dishes on offer, priced between Dh25 and Dh190, the menu focuses less on fusion and more on highlighting the culinary connections forged through historical trade routes. An example is the roasted eggplant with red miso and feta cheese – an impactful eggplant salad that showcases some of the ancient fermentation techniques traders used to preserve ingredients on months-long journeys. The smoked salmon and ossetra caviar tartlet, an elegant pastry appetiser, takes its cues from the historic Caspian Sea Trade – a key feature of the Silk Road. It reflects how delicacies such as caviar and fish roe were transported from places like Persia throughout the region. The meat dishes, such as the braised lamb shank and striploin, are infused with Silk Road spices like sumac, ginger and cloves. Meanwhile, contemporary influences emerge in the quinoa-crusted octopus and chicken liver parfait. The octopus is gently braised, then coated in crisped quinoa for added texture, while the sweetness of apple and the richness of the parfait create a balanced, smooth finish. A dessert dish that could prove popular is Hidden Treasure – a decadent Guanaja chocolate whipped ganache with crunchy cocoa nibs, sitting atop a crispy date cake and a puddle of fragrant cardamom soup. 'We wanted to celebrate this history by creating a menu that captures the essence of those exchanges,' Sheikha Bodour says. 'Every dish is designed to reflect the natural evolution of flavours that have travelled across continents yet feel at home in Emirati kitchens. Some dishes pay homage to time-honoured recipes, while others reimagine these influences in new ways.' Bait El Lowal is located on Al Marija Street, Sharjah; open daily from 8am to 11pm; for reservations go to baitelowal.com