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Nintendo Stock (NTDOF) Rockets on Donkey Kong Bananza Direct

Nintendo Stock (NTDOF) Rockets on Donkey Kong Bananza Direct

Business Insider5 hours ago

Nintendo (NTDOF) stock saw a strong rally on Wednesday as investors and gamers reacted to the latest Direct focused on Donkey Kong Bananza. This is a new game that will be released for the Switch 2 on July 17, 2025.
Confident Investing Starts Here:
The Donkey Kong Bananza Direct provided a wealth of new information about the game, giving gamers an idea of what to expect when it is released. The presentation went over well, with this new game taking inspiration from Super Mario Odyssey and The Legend of Zelda: Breath of the Wild. These were two of the best-selling Switch games, with combined sales of $69.05 million units.
Nintendo and its investors no doubt expect the new Donkey Kong game to perform well, considering the state of Switch 2 sales. The video game console sold 3.5 million units in its first four days on the market, setting new records for Nintendo and the game industry. With those sales under its belt, and a month to go before Donkey Kong Bananza is released, there's huge potential for the game to sell well. Today's presentation could also help boost Switch 2 sales ahead of the game's release.
Nintendo Stock Movement Today
NTDOF stock soared 6.27% higher on Wednesday, extending the company's year-to-date rally of 58.51%. Additionally, this propelled Nintendo shares to a new all-time high of $90.97. Switch 2 sales data, new game releases, and more could be significant catalysts that send NTDOF stock higher in 2025.
Is Nintendo Stock a Buy, Sell, or Hold?
Turning to Wall Street, the analysts' consensus rating for Nintendo is Moderate Buy, based on eight Buy, two Hold, and a single Sell rating over the past three months. With that comes an average NTDOF stock price target of $92.41, representing a potential 1.58% upside for the shares.

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9 Simple Tips to Make Your Switch 2 Games Really Pop on Your 4K TV
9 Simple Tips to Make Your Switch 2 Games Really Pop on Your 4K TV

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9 Simple Tips to Make Your Switch 2 Games Really Pop on Your 4K TV

PCMag editors select and review products independently. If you buy through affiliate links, we may earn commissions, which help support our testing. The Switch 2 is Nintendo's most powerful game system yet, and the first capable of running games at resolution and in high dynamic range (). Its 6.8-inch LCD screen is big and bright, but it's only 1080p, which means you need to dock it and connect it to a TV if you want to see every single pixel it's capable of pushing. Ideally, the new console will do most of the work of making that happen, but that's not always a certainty. Fortunately, I'm not only PCMag's resident Nintendo system reviewer, I'm also its home theater expert and a certified TV calibrator. Follow these steps to make sure you're getting everything you can out of your Switch when you're playing it on your TV. Not all HDMI ports are created equal. They're classified under different standards that enable different features like higher resolutions, faster refresh rates, and HDR. The most current standard is HDMI 2.1, which supports 4K video at 120Hz. The Switch 2 can't go quite that far, but it can output 4K video at 60Hz or, optionally, lower-resolution 1080p (HD) or 1440p (QHD) video at 120Hz. You'll probably want to use the sharpest 4K60 video most of the time, and for that, you need an HDMI 2.0 port. HDMI 2.0 is very common now and can be found on almost all 4K TVs made in the last several years. If your TV is older, though, it might only have HDMI 1.4b, which will accept 4K video but only at up to 30Hz. It also might mix and match the HDMI port standards between those three. Look at the ports on the back of your TV and check if there are any identifiers beyond 'HDMI.' Most TVs mark their ports clearly as resolution and refresh rate combinations like 4K60, 4K120, 4K144, or as the HDMI standards themselves. Make sure your Switch 2 is plugged into a 4K60/HDMI 2.0 port or better. That will let you get the most out of the system. If you have other game consoles or a gaming PC, consider saving any 4K120/HDMI 2.1 ports for them since they are capable of outputting at higher refresh rates. Like HDMI ports, also have different capacities. Fortunately, Nintendo has you covered here: The Switch 2 comes with a cable that supports the system's output (4K60 and 1080p/1440p120). You should use it. If you lose the included cable, make sure you replace it with a . This type of cable has a bandwidth of 18Gbps, which is required for 4K60. These cables will be clearly marked as Premium High Speed and should have a fancy sticker on the box showing that they're certified as such. The Switch 2 should automatically output at 4K and enable HDR once you connect it to your TV, but check to make sure. Go into the system menu and scroll down to Display, then select Dock Output Information. This will bring up a screen showing what the dock is currently sending to your TV. If it says 3,840 x 2,160 under Resolution and HDR under Outputting, you're all clear. You can start playing Switch 2 games at 4K60 in HDR. Have fun! If it doesn't say that, or if you want to use a higher refresh rate at a lower resolution, read on. In the same Display menu, right above Dock Output Information, there's a TV Resolution option. When set to the default Automatic, it should output at 4K, but if not, you can try to force it to output at 4K by selecting 2160p (4K) from the dropdown menu. If the screen blacks out and doesn't come back after a few seconds, double-check the HDMI cable and port to see if there's a bottleneck there. The Switch 2 should detect HDR support and walk you through enabling it when you first set it up, but if that isn't the case, you can fix it in the Display menu. First, make sure the RGB Range option is set to Full Range. Next, scroll all the way down through the TV settings to HDR Output and make sure it's set to For All Software or Compatible Software Only. After that, you can choose Adjust HDR below it and follow the instructions to adjust HDR brightness to best fit your TV. If you don't have HDR after that? Check the cable and port to make sure the signal is getting to your TV properly. After all that, you might actually want to turn HDR off to get the best picture on your TV. HDR should let the Switch 2 tell your TV to get brighter and more colorful than a standard dynamic range does because that's the point of the technology: It increases the range of light each pixel displays. However, some TVs will actually show a dimmer and more washed-out picture when the Switch 2 is outputting in HDR. I encountered this on my Hisense TV and have seen several reports of users experiencing the same issue. If the Switch 2 doesn't look quite right on your TV despite all the settings seeming correct, go back into the Display menu, scroll down to TV settings, and set HDR Output to Off. The TV should blackout for a few seconds and then look better than it did with HDR. Note: Don't disable the HDR Output option at the top of the Display menu. That setting is for the Switch 2's screen itself, not your TV, and that screen should automatically and consistently look good. The Automatic resolution setting will default to outputting at 4K60 if your TV can handle it. If you're willing to compromise sharpness on the chance that the game you play can push past a 60fps frame rate, you can manually set the output to 1080p or 1440p (QHD). With that set, scroll down the Display menu again and make sure 120Hz Output is checked. If the game you're playing supports it, you can then play at a lower resolution and higher refresh rate. This is a big if, depending on both the game and your TV. I've found that TVs handle video signals that combine lower-than-4K resolutions with higher-than-60Hz refresh rates very inconsistently, especially when the source device doesn't have variable refresh rate (VRR). VRR is a feature that synchronizes the refresh rate of the signal and the TV even if it changes, and it's very helpful for games where frame rates can change wildly based on what's being rendered. While the Switch 2 has VRR for its own 1080p120 screen, its HDMI output is locked to 60Hz or 120Hz. In other words, if you really want the smoothest gameplay possible, you might want to just take the system out of the dock and play it in your hands instead of on your TV, and save the docked mode for nice, sharp 4K games at a more modest 60Hz. Even if the right signal is being sent out from your Switch 2, your TV has to know how to best handle it. This should be automatic, especially if your TV is fairly new. The Switch 2 supports Auto Low-Latency Mode (ALLM), which tells your ALLM-equipped TV to automatically switch to its Game mode to reduce input lag when you're playing on it. If your TV doesn't have ALLM, though, you should manually switch its picture mode to Game or Gaming. Doing so can be the difference between your game feeling like it's responding to you instantly and feeling like you're playing a bathtub full of pudding. Most TVs from the '90s and early 2000s had a 4:3 aspect ratio instead of the 16:9 widescreen we're all used to today. Nintendo was forward-thinking at the time, though, and so the N64 and GameCube both support outputting widescreen video. Most games were still released in 4:3, but a few were programmed to take advantage of their systems' 16:9 capabilities. Today, when you play an N64 or GameCube game on Nintendo Switch Online + Expansion Pack, you'll be greeted with a 4:3 picture with black bars on the side. You'll probably want to fix that, and for games that support widescreen, you can. You just need to manually enable it in each game as you play it. In some games, like F-Zero GX, the option is in the Settings menu off of the main menu. In Goldeneye 007, it's hidden in a sub-menu in the pause menu. You might need to dig, but it's worth finding the setting, whether you're playing on your 16:9 TV or the Switch 2's own 16:9 screen.

Nintendo Switch 2 vs. Switch 1: What's the Difference?
Nintendo Switch 2 vs. Switch 1: What's the Difference?

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Nintendo Switch 2 vs. Switch 1: What's the Difference?

PCMag editors select and review products independently. If you buy through affiliate links, we may earn commissions, which help support our testing. Whether it's the price of technology or tariffs, the Switch 2 is Nintendo's most expensive system yet at $449.99. That's a big ask when the Switch is $299.99, the Switch OLED is $349.99, and the handheld-only Switch Lite is just $199.99. The Switch 2 is still less expensive than a PlayStation 5 or an Xbox Series X, but not by much. Game prices are also moving upward. Mario Kart World is $80. That's higher than the current $70 "normal" of many console games, after decades of the market settling around $60 for major releases. Accessories, like the Switch 2 Pro Controller ($85) and Joy-Con 2 ($90 per pair), are also about $10 more than their Switch equivalents. Winner: Switch The Switch 2 is the first Nintendo console to take the previous system's name and put a simple "2" after it. 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However, the Joy-Con 2s have much more interesting tech. Optical sensors on the connection rails of each Joy-Con 2 mean the controllers double as mice. This lets you play games like Fortnite and Metroid Prime 4: Beyond using mouse-like aim as you would with a PC game. It's very accurate, but I find that it makes my wrist sore after a while. That might not be an issue for everyone, and it might be something I can mitigate by adjusting how I hold it. Either way, it's a cool feature that the original Joy-Con lack. Winner: Switch 2 The Switch 2 has a bigger and better screen in almost every way. It's 7.9 inches and features 1080p resolution, so it has twice the pixels. It's larger at by 2.5 to 0.9 inches, depending on the Switch 1 model you're comparing it with, and has double the refresh rate (120Hz). It looks great in person. It's an LCD, so the OLED Switch actually has an edge in contrast and color. OLED screens can show incredibly dark blacks and usually have a wider color range than LCDs. That said, the Switch 2's LCD is significantly brighter and more vibrant than the first Switch's screen. Although its colors aren't quite as vivid as the OLED Switch's when looking at the two next to each other, it's within swinging distance and doesn't look remotely undersaturated. Even with a little less color range, the bigger size, higher resolution, and faster refresh rate all make the Switch 2's screen the superior one. Winner: Switch 2 Historically, processing power hasn't been a big priority for Nintendo—the original Switch showed its age pretty quickly compared with competing consoles. It was limited to 1080p60, a best-case scenario in docked mode. The Switch 2 can output 4K60 (or 1080p120 graphics while docked), depending on the game and settings. That means it's the first Nintendo system capable of 4K resolution or frame rates greater than 60 frames per second. It won't necessarily hit those numbers consistently, especially with games that have very detailed graphics, long draw distances, or many objects on screen at once. Even with those caveats, the Switch 2 has much sharper, smoother graphics than the previous system by every measure. Winner: Switch 2 This is the Switch 2's one weakness. Depending on the games you play, it can last between 2 and 6.5 hours on a charge. That's slightly worse than the original Switch at launch (2.5 to 6.5 hours) and much worse than both the currently available LCD Switch with its improved battery and the OLED Switch (4.5 to 9 hours). Winner: Switch You won't immediately need a microSD card with the Switch 2 (though you'll specifically need a microSD Express card for it, not an ordinary microSD card). The Switch 2 has 256GB of internal storage, which can go a long way with Switch titles. The Switch 1 only has 32GB of storage, while the Switch OLED has 64GB. Winner: Switch 2 The Switch 2 has voice chat; the Switch doesn't. The right-hand Joy-Con 2 features a new C button that enables GameChat, the built-in communication system. After pressing it, you can speak to in-game friends using the console's integrated mic. It's an obvious feature Microsoft and Sony figured out some time ago, but it's new for Nintendo, and it's better than the strange smartphone app the company offered with the original Switch. Winner: Switch 2 The Switch 2's new Accessibility menu lets you enable various features to help you use the system if you have visual, auditory, or verbal difficulties. You can tweak the size of system text, toggle a screen zoom, invert colors or set them to grayscale, use a speech-to-text screen reader, and make other adjustments based on your needs. The Switch has a button remapping menu, but that's about it. Winner: Switch 2 The Switch 2 runs almost all Switch 1 games. Some games aren't compatible, but that's an extremely short list that's becoming shorter by the day as patches are released for the few games with compatibility hiccups. Switch 2 supports Switch game cards and eShop downloads, too. Switch games won't necessarily look or play better on the Switch 2 unless they're updated to take advantage of the extra power and higher resolution. Some will simply get minor performance patches for free, but you'll need to spend money for more comprehensive upgrades in "Switch 2 Edition" games. Breath of the Wild, Kirby and the Forgotten Land, Metroid Prime 4: Beyond, Pokémon Legends: Z-A, Super Mario Party Jamboree, and Tears of the Kingdom will have Switch 2 Editions with benefits like 4K60 or 1080p120 video modes and new control schemes. In some cases, you'll enjoy new content. If you already have the original Switch versions, you'll probably pay an upgrade fee of around $10, though some Switch 2 Edition upgrades will be included as part of Nintendo Switch Online + Expansion Pass. The Switch 2 lets you play every classic game collection available through NSO with Expansion Pass, with one big bonus: GameCube games. If you subscribe to the Expansion Pass, you can access GameCube games on the Switch 2, like F-Zero GX, Soulcalibur II, and The Legend of Zelda: The Wind Waker. Those titles won't be on the Switch 1 at all. Winner: Switch 2 A new console generation means new exclusives, and Nintendo has already announced that some Switch 2 titles won't appear on the Switch 1. You can play the cross-generation Metroid Prime 4: Beyond and Pokémon Legends: Z-A on the original Switch, but you must upgrade to the Switch 2 for Donkey Kong Bananza or Mario Kart World. It's safe to say that many third-party Switch 2 games, such as Cyberpunk 2077 and Final Fantasy VII Remake Intergrade, won't appear on the original Switch. Winner: Switch 2

Nintendo Switch 2 Pro Controller: A Premium Gamepad Worth the $$$
Nintendo Switch 2 Pro Controller: A Premium Gamepad Worth the $$$

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Nintendo Switch 2 Pro Controller: A Premium Gamepad Worth the $$$

PCMag editors select and review products independently. If you buy through affiliate links, we may earn commissions, which help support our testing. Just as the Nintendo Switch launched with the Switch Pro Controller to use in lieu of its detachable Joy-Con, the Switch 2 launches with the Switch 2 Pro Controller. Like the Switch 2 to the Switch, the $84.99 Switch 2 Pro Controller is a solid upgrade over its predecessor, with a higher price to match (the original Switch Pro is $69.99). It adds new features like programmable rear buttons and a headset jack that help justify the premium, along with several material refinements that give the gamepad a much more high-end feel. So while it's pricey, the Switch 2 Pro should be the first controller you reach for if you frequently use the system in docked mode, and that makes it our Editors' Choice award winner. If the name doesn't make it clear, the Switch 2 Pro Controller is intended to work with the Switch 2. It will not officially work with any other device, including the original Switch or a PC. However, enthusiasts will likely create some form of workaround to let it function as a PC gamepad. Official Steam support might come down the line, just like with the first Pro Controller. The Switch 2 Pro Controller looks similar to the original, with long grips and gentle curves that fit comfortably in your hand. Its shell is a satiny plastic that's smoother than the subtly textured grip of the original and pleasant to touch. The gamepad isn't completely black like the previous Pro Controller, though; it has light gray accents around the analog sticks, top panel, and shoulder buttons. The package looks and feels a bit more polished than the slightly glossy and partially translucent Switch Pro Controller. The main control layout is almost completely unchanged, with offset analog sticks, large A/B/X/Y face buttons, a plus-shaped direction pad, and two pairs of bumper/trigger buttons. Although they're arranged the same, some components have been refined. The analog sticks are silky smooth in motion and are almost silent when pushed to their limit (instead of tapping loudly against the gamepad's casing). The face buttons and direction pad are also quieter, without losing any of their springiness. The plus and minus buttons are slightly raised, making them easier to press. Subtle refinements are only the start of the upgrades. The Switch 2 Pro also has three important features that the original lacked. First, it joins the Joy-Con 2 controllers in GameChat functionality via a small, square C button located between the direction pad and right analog stick. Like on the Joy-Con 2 pads, this button launches the GameChat menu and lets you start or join voice and video groups. Second, the gamepad has a 3.5mm headset jack just like the DualSense and Xbox Wireless Controller. So, if you have a wired gaming headset, simply plug it into the controller and use it instead of the Switch 2's microphone and your TV's speakers. The jack is located on the gamepad's bottom edge between the grips, where the status LEDs were on the original Pro Controller (those lights are relocated to the top panel next to the USB-C port and pairing button). Third, the Switch 2 Pro Controller follows in the footsteps of other high-end gamepads like the DualSense Edge and the Xbox Elite Wireless Controller by adding programmable rear buttons. These GL and GR buttons sit flush on the back of the grips, right where your middle fingers naturally rest. You can set them to act like any single digital control input, such as the face buttons, shoulder buttons, direction pad presses, and analog stick clicks. You access the GL and GR button-mapping menu by holding the Home button for a second. This lets you change what the buttons do with only a few presses. These settings are saved on a per-game basis, which is convenient. For example, you can have GL and GR act as LB and LR in Street Fighter 6 (Drive Impact and Drive Parry) or as LT and RT in Mario Kart World (Items and Drifting). Quick menu GL and GR settings are separate from the full-button remapping available in the Switch 2's Accessibility menu. You can completely rearrange the Pro Controller's controls on a system level and save presets. These customizations are the same across all games and must be manually switched. Besides the physical controls, the Switch 2 Pro Controller has the same extra functions as the first one, including motion controls and an NFC sensor for reading Amiibo. It also has vibration, specifically the same HD Rumble 2 as the Joy-Con 2 controllers, which gives detailed feedback in games that support it. Nintendo estimates the Switch 2 Pro Controller's battery to last about 40 hours between charges, which seems in line with my tests. According to the console, two dozen hours of gaming took the gamepad a bit below the 50% mark. That's comparable with the Xbox Elite Wireless Controller and far longer than the DualSense Edge's meager six-hour battery life. I played several games with the Switch 2 Pro Controller, and they worked perfectly. Precision platforming in Hollow Knight felt natural, and I could reliably perform moves and counters in Street Fighter 6. The analog sticks made for effortless steering in Mario Kart World, and the motion controls were accurate while aiming in Splatoon 3. The Switch 2 Pro Controller simply feels better as a full gamepad than the Joy-Con 2 in the system's included gamepad grip. It's more comfortable to hold, and its components are better suited to the control style since they aren't designed around Joy-Con 2's modular, portable aspects. Likewise, the directional inputs are better than the Joy-Con 2's; I've already gushed about the tactile response of the analog sticks, but the plus-shaped directional pad is a superior way to input digital directions than the left Joy-Con's four face buttons. The headphone jack worked as expected, too, piping sound through my wired headphones with no problem. That's probably the least important part of the Pro Controller, since the Switch 2 already supports Bluetooth headphones.

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