Francis Brennan: 'Beautiful' Bali really disappointed me — it was filthy
My favourite childhood holiday memory
My father was a grocer working seven days a week, so holidays were very scarce. We'd take a half-day on a Monday and go to the seaside. But the one I always remember was going down to Courtown and staying in a caravan with my cousins. I think we were about seven or eight, and it was the first time we were properly away from mam and dad. There were seven of us in the bed. Health and safety wouldn't allow it now! I'll never forget the chips we used to get from the chipper in Courtown with the salt and vinegar. I've never had chips that tasted like that since.
My most memorable trip
India. I've been there three times over the years and it's just a shake for the senses. The colour, the style, the sheer number of people. I first went over 30 years ago, and then again about five years ago filming At Your Service.
The economic transformation in that time was incredible. The first time I went, the Taj Mahal was quiet — a few Indian families and mostly foreign tourists. When I went back, it looked like Croke Park on All-Ireland day. It was very encouraging to see so many Indian people now able to holiday. It was brilliant to see the economic life of India rising. They say it will be the biggest market for all of us in time.
Most surprising destination
All I ever heard about was how beautiful Bali was. But when I went there on the way back from Australia, I was really disappointed! It was filthy, the beaches weren't nice, and the towns were all shacks. The big hotels — Accor, Méridien and others — went in 35 years ago and built luxury resorts. People go there and think everything is magnificent because the hotels keep their beachfront pristine. But when you leave the hotel, it's a poor show. The sand is the same everywhere, it's what surrounds you that matters. For me, Bali was way below expectations.
My favourite hotel
Chewton Glen
My favourite hotel is Chewton Glen in the New Forest.
It was run by a couple called the Skinners, and they were the first people to have a proper country house hotel in England. They had 104 staff — with four painters on staff full-time just to fix scuffs from suitcases! The gardens were magnificent, with huge displays of flowers and a beautiful driveway. The weather in that part of southern England is lovely, and everything about the place was just perfect.
My favourite city to visit
I love Venice. It's mystical. The canals, the streets, the shops, the food, the opera — everything. It's brilliant for three or four days, and there's plenty to see. You can take the vaporetto out to Murano and watch them make glass, and maybe bring some home in 77 different colours.
I was there once for a small luxury hotel conference, and we had the most magnificent dinner in a noble house along the canal. The whole city is like a dream. If you go in March or April, you miss the crowds and have a great time.
Most beautiful country
Honolulu is my favourite place for a holiday. It's very far from Ireland, which makes it feel even more special when you get there. There's a great atmosphere, always 85 degrees and a breeze.
The beach is beautiful, and they keep it that way. Everything is compact, the hotels, shops, restaurants, and everything works well together. I've been twice. Once, I even went scuba diving in a cave and saw fin sharks and electric eels. I still remember feeling a tail flick against my toes!
Favourite thing to do while travelling
I always do a walking tour. I think it's the best way to orient yourself in a new place. I use companies like GuruWalk or Travel by Locals, and I've had some brilliant experiences, like walking tours of the tiled steps in San Francisco or Grand Central Station in New York. You learn so much. I always do the hop-on and hop-off bus to see everything and decide where to go back to.
And I love the theatre. If I'm in London or New York, I'll go to a show every night if I can.
My bucket list trip
I want to do a world cruise. I've always wanted to, but I can never get the time.
The cruises are long —180 days or more — and I can't commit because At Your Service might need me, or one of the shops might. But someday I'll do it. I usually get to eventually.
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Irish Times
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Swap Barcelona for Malaga, Santorini for Milos: where to skip the crowds but not the vibe
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If it's the cosmopolitan feel that draws you to the Big Apple, Montreal in Canada also has that in spades – and it's budget-friendly. With a rich history of immigration, Montreal's neighbourhoods – from the enclaves of Little Portugal, Little Italy and Chinatown to the hip Le Plateau and the charm of Old Montreal – are as distinct as New York's. Mural by Baguette Brochette in Montreal. Photograph: Tourisme Montréal Plus, the food scene is just as spectacular. It houses famous eateries that have been serving up the same family recipes for generations (try Schwartz's Deli) alongside innovative dining options like Les Mômes. Found in the relaxed Villeray area, it delivers elevated French cuisine with a strong emphasis on local ingredients and sustainable processes – and it's BYOB (bring your own beer). Getting there: Air Canada flies direct from Dublin to Montreal from €525. Where to stay: Hôtel Monville (double rooms from €162) offers sweeping views of the financial district and is centrally located for all of Montreal's main attractions. Swap Barcelona for Malaga Malaga, on the Costa del Sol in Spain. Photograph: Getty Images It has been well documented that Barcelona – once among the most effortlessly cool cities to visit on a weekend break in Europe – no longer likes us. From spraying unsuspecting tourists sipping (overpriced) sangria on La Rambla to painting 'tourists go home' graffiti all over the city, Catalans have made it clear they're fed up. They are, of course allowed to be fed up (although they could ease off on the extreme hostility). If you still want your Spanish city break and don't want to be glowered at, try Malaga. Its airport is one of the busiest in Europe but the tourists who fly in tend to immediately go west to the Costa del Sol resort towns, or east towards Nerja. 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Photograph: Getty Images Ibiza's clubbing scene has already been replicated in other party islands like Mykonos in Greece, and Pag in Croatia has fast become a reputable alternative. Most of the year, it's a remote, quiet island with lunar landscapes on its rugged eastern side, and verdant forests to the west. But from June to August, Novalja is the place for party people. Thumping dance festivals like Hideout, Sunscape and Sonus take place on Zrće beach, attracting thousands of revellers to this paradise island. With a circus theme and cake-smushing for festivalgoers, Circus Maximus, taking place at the end of July, is especially wild. Blow away the cobwebs the morning after the night before with a dip in Pag's turquoise waters, or its walking trails through peaceful countryside – just mind the ubiquitous sheep in Pag. Getting there: Ryanair fly direct from Dublin and Cork to Zadar from €71. Where to stay: 3.5km away from Zrće Beach, the seafront Hotel Kaneo (doubles from €80, rising to €225 in high season) is exactly what's needed after a night out: rooms are plush and comfortable, and the outdoor pool offers stunning sea views. Swap New Orleans for Savannah, Georgia Oak trees and colonial houses in downtown Savannah. Photograph:To immerse yourself in Southern livin', good times and folklore, New Orleans isn't the only option in the the Atlantic coast, 900km east, Savannah is a vibrant, youthful city that's fast becoming a favourite with holidaying Americans . Central to its appeal is its historic aesthetic – like New Orleans' French Quarter, its commitment to historical architecture transports you to a different time period entirely (it's no surprise that Savannah is supposed to be America's most haunted city). Southern fare is big in Savannah, but expect contemporary twists – for example, at Garage at Victory North, the famous red rice is turned into a creamy risotto. Best of all, you won't have to book your accommodation for Savannah months in advance. And when you do, like the rest of the holiday, it will be keenly priced. Getting there: Connecting flights to Savannah with JetBlue, Aer Lingus, Finnair, Delta, British Airways and American Airlines start from €742. Where to stay: The Old Harbour Inn (double rooms from €152) is in a converted warehouse from 1892, and many original features remain. Swap Bodrum for Ksamil Ksamil beach, the jewel of the Albanian Riviera, in the Vlore province. Photograph: Tuul &You may not have heard of the jewel of the Albanian Riviera, but it is becoming increasingly popular thanks to its gloriously white sands, crystal clear waters and great value places to eat. Ksamil (the K is silent) sits on the Ionian Sea close to Corfu, and on the fringes of the Unesco-protected Butrint National Park, with its Roman ruins and gorgeous little lakes. At high season the beaches are very busy – you will have to pay a tenner or more to access a lounger with no option to just lay down your towel – so you might want to avoid booking in July or August, but in the shoulder months it can be a little piece of heaven. The restaurants are plentiful and very cheap indeed – a meal for two including wine won't cost more than €30, while beers often cost less than €1. Getting there: No direct flights. Fly from Dublin to Corfu with Ryanair or Aer Lingus and then take a 35-minute ferry to the city of Sarande, and a bus to cover the 15km to the resort. It is a bit of journey, but isn't travel supposed to be an adventure? Where to stay: There are plenty of hotels with few costing more than €200 a night, and many budget options for under €100. Try the three-star Hotel Villa Qendra with rooms from €91. Swap Bruges for Tallinn Toompea hill with tower Pikk Hermann and Russian Orthodox Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in Tallinn, Estonia. Photograph:The Belgian city of Bruges is world famous for its historical architecture, old town and great beer. But Tallinn in Estonia does the same for a fraction of the price. Located on the northeast of mainland Europe by the Baltic Sea, the Estonian capital is also simple to navigate. The city is a 15-minute drive from the airport, and it's an eminently walkable town. With its patchwork of squares and Hanseatic and Gothic buildings, Vanalinn, the Unesco-protected old town, it is one of Europe's best-preserved medieval areas. Yet its recent tech industry boom means that there's a dynamism to Tallinn – within Vanalinn's narrow, cobbled streets, you'll also find a buzzing nightlife, where the bill for a meal often totals €20 and a pint costs €5. Getting there: Ryanair flies direct from Dublin to Tallinn from €64. Where to stay: Stay in a slice of history – The Three Sisters Hotel (doubles from €108) is a faithfully renovated hotel within a striking 600-year old building. Swap The Maldives for Maddalena Island, Sardinia La Maddalena in Sardinia offers the beachy beauty of The Maldives, only much more affordably. Photograph: FrancescoThe Maldives' postcard-perfect beaches, shallow warm waters and rich coral reefs are every sun-lover's dream. It's tricky to find a more practical dupe nearer to home, but if you can forgo the luxe feel and abundance of rare marine life, La Maddalena in Sardinia offers the beachy beauty of The Maldives, only much more affordably. Situated off the northeast tip of Sardinia, it's more rugged than the nearby Smeralda Coast, famed for its glitz and glam, but just as beautiful. The neon-blue waters are so inviting, and its immaculate beaches are powder-soft under your toes. The island is a former US naval base and it recently set up its tourism amenities, so if you don't mind your idyllic beaches with a rustic feel, La Maddalena is an ideal dupe. Getting there: Ryanair flies direct from Dublin to Olbia Costa Smeralda from €78. 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Irish Times
12 hours ago
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Craig Casey happy to lead Ireland into Georgia's ‘hostile environment'
A slate-grey sky threatened rain as Ireland completed their preparations for Saturday night's Test match against Georgia at the Mikheil Meskhi stadium (6pm Irish time, Virgin Media One). It arrived in the shape of a brief sprinkle, nothing like the biblical downpour that had caused flooding on the streets of Tbilisi on Wednesday. The pitch is in remarkable condition; a side-note is that is maintained by an Irish company. The game is anticipated to be a sell-out. There were a couple of hundred tickets left for the 27,223 capacity stadium at Friday lunchtime. Ireland and Georgia flags stand side by side along the motorway median strip leading into Tbilisi from the city's international airport. Elsewhere the game is less visible but, come kick-off, Ireland will be in no doubt about the Georgian passion for rugby, manifest in the raucous atmosphere that attends all their home games. Ireland's newest captain, Craig Casey , got to hold his first prematch press conference. He spoke about the honour and privilege, and the acute disappointment of missing the Six Nations, before offering an insight into his prematch ritual. READ MORE 'I like to watch an awful lot of video to get my mind in it. I watch a few scrumhalves to get the juices flowing and then I watch my best bits as well. 'I will still continue to do that. I just have to lead a meeting [on Friday night] for the first time. There is a tiny bit of stress with that, but I am delighted with it. I have loved the last two weeks, taking ownership of loads of things and leaning on a good few of the leaders.' He admitted it would be a 'special day' for him and his family but so too for the six uncapped players in Ireland's matchday squad. 'It's a special week for them and their families, unbelievable for them to make their first caps. 'It's a huge opportunity for all of us, but it's a massive privilege for us to put on the Irish jersey at any stage. So, it's a huge week for them and it's up to the rest of us now to lay down a marker and make it a special one for them.' The fact that it will be in a hostile environment merely stokes Casey's competitive fire. 'It will be class to play in a hostile environment, that is exactly where you want to be as a player. We are expecting a mental atmosphere for the Georgians. 'It is a special thing to represent your country and every chance you get to do that ... is a huge privilege.'
