03-05-2025
Francis Brennan: 'Beautiful' Bali really disappointed me — it was filthy
One of Ireland's most recognisable hoteliers, TV presenter and all-round national treasure, Francis Brennan has been everywhere from the foothills of the Himalayas to the streets of San Francisco. As co-host of long-running RTÉ series At Your Service (he's currently filming season 14) and former proprietor of the famed Park Hotel Kenmare, Francis brings a seasoned traveller's eye to the world. Here, he shares his favourite escapes, most surprising trips, and why a world cruise is still on his wish list.
My favourite childhood holiday memory
My father was a grocer working seven days a week, so holidays were very scarce. We'd take a half-day on a Monday and go to the seaside. But the one I always remember was going down to Courtown and staying in a caravan with my cousins. I think we were about seven or eight, and it was the first time we were properly away from mam and dad. There were seven of us in the bed. Health and safety wouldn't allow it now! I'll never forget the chips we used to get from the chipper in Courtown with the salt and vinegar. I've never had chips that tasted like that since.
My most memorable trip
India. I've been there three times over the years and it's just a shake for the senses. The colour, the style, the sheer number of people. I first went over 30 years ago, and then again about five years ago filming At Your Service.
The economic transformation in that time was incredible. The first time I went, the Taj Mahal was quiet — a few Indian families and mostly foreign tourists. When I went back, it looked like Croke Park on All-Ireland day. It was very encouraging to see so many Indian people now able to holiday. It was brilliant to see the economic life of India rising. They say it will be the biggest market for all of us in time.
Most surprising destination
All I ever heard about was how beautiful Bali was. But when I went there on the way back from Australia, I was really disappointed! It was filthy, the beaches weren't nice, and the towns were all shacks. The big hotels — Accor, Méridien and others — went in 35 years ago and built luxury resorts. People go there and think everything is magnificent because the hotels keep their beachfront pristine. But when you leave the hotel, it's a poor show. The sand is the same everywhere, it's what surrounds you that matters. For me, Bali was way below expectations.
My favourite hotel
Chewton Glen
My favourite hotel is Chewton Glen in the New Forest.
It was run by a couple called the Skinners, and they were the first people to have a proper country house hotel in England. They had 104 staff — with four painters on staff full-time just to fix scuffs from suitcases! The gardens were magnificent, with huge displays of flowers and a beautiful driveway. The weather in that part of southern England is lovely, and everything about the place was just perfect.
My favourite city to visit
I love Venice. It's mystical. The canals, the streets, the shops, the food, the opera — everything. It's brilliant for three or four days, and there's plenty to see. You can take the vaporetto out to Murano and watch them make glass, and maybe bring some home in 77 different colours.
I was there once for a small luxury hotel conference, and we had the most magnificent dinner in a noble house along the canal. The whole city is like a dream. If you go in March or April, you miss the crowds and have a great time.
Most beautiful country
Honolulu is my favourite place for a holiday. It's very far from Ireland, which makes it feel even more special when you get there. There's a great atmosphere, always 85 degrees and a breeze.
The beach is beautiful, and they keep it that way. Everything is compact, the hotels, shops, restaurants, and everything works well together. I've been twice. Once, I even went scuba diving in a cave and saw fin sharks and electric eels. I still remember feeling a tail flick against my toes!
Favourite thing to do while travelling
I always do a walking tour. I think it's the best way to orient yourself in a new place. I use companies like GuruWalk or Travel by Locals, and I've had some brilliant experiences, like walking tours of the tiled steps in San Francisco or Grand Central Station in New York. You learn so much. I always do the hop-on and hop-off bus to see everything and decide where to go back to.
And I love the theatre. If I'm in London or New York, I'll go to a show every night if I can.
My bucket list trip
I want to do a world cruise. I've always wanted to, but I can never get the time.
The cruises are long —180 days or more — and I can't commit because At Your Service might need me, or one of the shops might. But someday I'll do it. I usually get to eventually.