Mensho Ramen in Culver City Could Be LA's Best New Noodle Shop

Eater

2 days ago

One of Tokyo's most celebrated ramen restaurants, Mensho Ramen, opened in Culver City on May 16 without much of an announcement beyond a subtle post on Instagram from its chef, Tomoharu Shono. The small space along Culver Boulevard has already drawn modest lines for its toripaitan-based ramen, housemade wheat noodles, and inventive topping combinations. Alongside its LA expansion, Mensho has already opened two outlets in San Francisco and one in Oakland to great fanfare stateside, which means its arrival in Southern California could spark a similar response in an arguably vaster and more passionate ramen scene.
Mensho keeps it fairly straightforward with a creamy, chicken-based broth that is as rich as, or even richer than, Hakata-style tonkotsu, offering a subtle sweetness that balances the thick, mochi-like noodles. The shop's signature ramen ($28), topped with tender duck slices, A5 wagyu beef, fermented pork chashu, truffle sauce, mushroom menma, smoked ajitama egg, gobo chips, and hojicha, is a torrential cavalcade of umami-rich ingredients. The toppings blend together with the heady, aromatic, and textural pleasures on par with some of the best ramen bowls in Japan. Even among LA's crowded ramen market, this is one of the most impressive bowls already.
Flavor combinations extend to the Garlic Knock Out, laden with various notes of the allium, including grilled garlic, black garlic oil, minced garlic, fried garlic chips, red onion, spicy gobo chips, and a subtle chile sauce. Think of it as a redolent cousin to Mensho's signature, with a lot more crunchy texture. An Old School bowl takes out the luxe duck and A5 wagyu, keeping the toppings more classic. A chicken and lamb-based broth comprises the final meat-based variant, with spicy ground lamb, eggplant, smoked nuts, and shishito peppers offering a truly gonzo permutation. Mensho also prepares three vegan ramen bowls (a take on the Garlic Knock Out, cauliflower tan tan, and yuzu) which employ a shio koji and dashi broth. Unfortunately, the shop doesn't offer gluten-free noodles yet.
Appetizers are focused yet well-executed, including corn 'wings' meant to resemble ones made with chicken, karaage fried chicken, fried horse mackerel (aji), and a negi-ikura rice bowl topped with seasoned salmon roe. The restaurant's diminutive space, previously occupied by Sweet Lily Bakery, accommodates about 40 diners at a time, including those seated at a large triangular communal table, four-tops, and counter seating.
Mensho's expansion appears to have been thoughtful and slow-paced compared to competitors like Jinya and Kyuramen, which have opened dozens of locations across the country in recent years. In Culver City alone, the ramen scene is heating up with nearby Ippudo opening last month, Afuri down the block, and Moto farther west. Mensho has five stores in Japan, one in Melbourne, and another in Bangkok, and just opened a restaurant in Salt Lake City, Utah.
Mensho Ramen is open from 5 p.m. to 9 p.m., Tuesday to Sunday, closed Mondays at 9516 Culver Boulevard, Culver City, CA, 90232.
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