The beautiful village known as ‘French Tibet' is more like Nimbin
Perhaps it's purely for medicinal use – the only kind that is legal in France – but it fits with the reputation Saorge has for doing things a little differently.
A tiny village of around 400 inhabitants high in the Roya Valley in France's south-eastern Alpes-Maritime region, Saorge is one of five medieval villages that cling to the side of the rugged mountain range that divides Italy and France. It has been nicknamed the French Tibet for its narrow twisting roads and imposing landscape, complete with a Franciscan monastery.
It may seem like a world away from modern civilisation, but it's only an hour from the French and Italian rivieras by bus or train. To drive there is possible, but the route is terrifying. On one trip to the village our bus driver suddenly slams on the brakes, puts his head out the window and starts waving his hands and shouting. A small car is coming up the road, blocking the way. Instead of moving into the shoulder, the driver decides to reverse down the winding road, the perilous cliff just centimetres from the side of their car. The bus passengers shake their heads in disbelief. I can't watch.
Few of the tourists who crowd into Nice, an hour away, find their way to Saorge. We've been based in the valley for weeks, and each time we come here it's blissfully quiet. Those visitors who do wander the rabbit warren of narrow streets, once part of the critical 16th and 17th century salt route from the coast to the north, find not much more than one or two shops, a cafe and a wine bar. But they will also discover intact medieval architecture, views and the village's long and fascinating history.
As well as being one of France's Plus Beaux Villages (most beautiful villages), one of its attractions is the 15th-century parish church of Saint-Sauveur, a baroque masterpiece whose salmon-pink exterior glows against the bright blue summer sky. If your timing is right, you might even hear its bells. The church's master bell-ringer uses a traditional style using both hands and feet.
Above the village is the Saorge monastery, home to Franciscan monks for centuries. You can visit the monastery museum to view frescoes, the cloister, the dining room and chapel, or simply wander the sublime working garden that looks out across the peaks and valley. The monastery's other spaces are home to a writers retreat.
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Sydney Morning Herald
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The Age
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15 hours ago
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