Where to eat in Stockholm
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
In a city known for cutting-edge design, technology, fashion and music, it's perhaps unsurprising that there's a dynamic culinary scene to be found in Stockholm. From classic Swedish cooking to innovative Nordic gastronomy, the food culture of Scandinavia's largest capital continues to evolve, as ambitious chefs experiment with tastes and techniques that are at the same time traditional and modern, local and global.
Two decades ago, legendary chef Mathias Dahlgren was the first Swede to sign the New Nordic Kitchen Manifesto, a movement that swept the region, spurring experimental cooking based on seasonal and local ingredients. That ethos still inspires kitchens across Stockholm; however, today's talented food entrepreneurs are taking contemporary Swedish cuisine in exciting new directions.
Prestigious fine-dining venues are dotted around the city, and a dozen have Michelin stars. Among them, Dahlgren's latest venture, Seafood Gastro, is an exploration of marine ingredients, from shellfish to seaweed. Lauded chef Björn Frantzén's eponymous restaurant, meanwhile, is the country's only three-Michelin-starred establishment, taking diners on a creative journey through contemporary Nordic dishes infused with Japanese and French culinary techniques.
Yet, there's more to eating out in Stockholm than fine dining. Spread across 14 main islands, each of the city's districts has a distinct character and culinary scene. The crowded medieval alleyways of Gamla Stan are a tourist magnet and go-to for classic Swedish food, with restaurants typically serving husmanskost, or 'home-style cooking', such as köttbullar, the meatballs immortalised by IKEA, and staples such as pickled herring.
To the north there's commercial Norrmalm, further south there's cool and laid-back Södermalm, then smart and upmarket Östermalm is in the east. Further north is the down-to-earth neighbourhood of Vasastan, with its crop of unpretentious bistros, including Lilla Ego, which serves rustic Swedish food, and Främmat, which offers French-inspired small plates. Savant Bar, meanwhile, is the place to visit for natural wines, seasonal vegetable-led dishes and Swedish cheeses.
All across Stockholm, local produce blends with ingredients and techniques from the Mediterranean, Middle East and beyond. This fusion of flavours can be found at Hötorgshallen, a multicultural food hall in the heart of the city selling both ingredients and bites to eat. And in a former factory in Slakthusområdet, an old meatpacking district, popular recent opening Solen dishes up a helping of sunshine via Greek, Spanish and Italian dishes. Meanwhile, a wave of hip restaurants pays homage to Japan, using the finest Nordic seafood. The standout is Sushi Sho, in Vasastan, which serves a surprisingly affordable Michelin-starred omakase menu in a tiny, white tiled space seating 14 diners.
Alongside all this you'll find everything you'd expect in one of the world's coolest cities: a proliferation of plant-based dining, next-generation coffee roasteries, craft breweries, cocktail bars and artisan bakeries. Step beyond Stockholm's historic heart and you'll find a thriving food scene that's ripe for exploring.
Spanning eastwards from the inner city, Östermalm is Stockholm at its poshest. Among tree-lined boulevards and ochre and salmon-pink residential buildings are some of the city's most affluent addresses, along with high-end fashion boutiques, fascinating museums and fine-dining restaurants.
Grab a pistachio croissant and sip quality coffee at relaxed Pascal Kaffebar before exploring Östermalm's waterfront. Admire the ornate art nouveau facade of Dramaten, the Royal Dramatic Theatre, before window shopping — or splashing the cash — at classic design store Svenskt Tenn. You'll find an array fabrics and furnishings in vivid botanical patterns. Then, if you like, hop on board a boat tour to savour Stockholm from the water.
For lunch, walk inland to Restaurang Oxenstiernan, set within a cosy orange cottage surrounded by greenery. It's known for its sustainable ethos and carefully sourced ingredients, such as Swedish mackerel with fennel and fermented tomatoes. Afterwards, head around the corner to the Swedish History Museum for a crash-course on the country's past, from the Vikings to the modern age.
Loop back towards the city centre, calling at Östermalms Saluhall. Built in 1888 and recently restored, this gourmet food hall sells a range of local cheeses, cured meats and seafood. Browse the counters or pull up a seat to soak in the old-world ambience with a glass of wine and some kräftor (boiled crayfish).
For dinner, head to casual-chic Restaurang Hantverket. Here, TV chef Stefan Ekengren has given Swedish cuisine a modern makeover, serving up appetising small plates including hasselback potatoes topped with bleak fish roe, and beef carpaccio with jerusalem artichokes, gruyere and hazelnuts.
Fancy a nightcap? Try Omaka, a slick craft beer microbrewery, or enjoy the low-key atmosphere at A Bar Called Gemma, where creative cocktails are accompanied by an indie-rock soundtrack.
To the south of Gamla Stan, Stockholm's medieval old town, is the island of Södermalm, a former working-class district that's evolved into a cultural and culinary hotspot, filled with down-to-earth dining, vintage stores and laid-back nightlife.
Kick off the day at award-winning roastery Drop Coffee, by Mariatorget metro station. The artisan coffee, brewed from organic, Fairtrade beans, is a must for connoisseurs. Fuelled up with caffeine and a classic Swedish cinnamon bun, climb the hilly, cobbled streets towards Monteliusvägen, a clifftop path that rewards your efforts with sweeping city panoramas.
Passing historic townhouses, descend again to the waterfront and the world-class Fotografiska gallery. This former warehouse holds superb exhibitions on both emerging and internationally renowned photographers.
Retrace your steps to the Slussen crossroads, this time taking the historic elevator, Katarinahissen, to the footbridge 125ft up. A 1936 landmark, it only recently restarted operations after a 13-year closure and renovation. At the top, you'll find recently opened fine-dining spot Gondolen. It offers a pricey-but-worth-it Swedish- and French-inspired menu, with dishes such as pan-fried pikeperch in champagne sauce, as well as unbeatable views, plush decor and live jazz.
Come back down to earth by strolling to lively SoFo (meaning 'south of Folkungagatan'), known for its independent boutiques and second-hand stores selling homewares, clothing and vinyl. End with dinner at Nytorget square, where Bar Agrikultur is an intimate, unpretentious restaurant with friendly service and a changing menu of Mediterranean- and Middle Eastern-inspired small plates. Must-tries include the sweet-and-salty brined cucumber, cream cheese and honey, and harissa-spiced scallops. An eclectic mix of art and taxidermy hangs on the walls, while outdoor street-side tables are perfect for people-watching in warmer weather.
Finally, wrap up your evening at well-loved local wine bar Folii, which serves classic varieties alongside the sommeliers' new finds.
In a nutshell, fika simply means coffee, cake and catching up. It belongs to the idea of living well, an art the Swedes have perfected; taking a pause to recharge over coffee and a sweet treat with friends or coworkers is an everyday ritual many Swedes cherish.
Coffee-drinking gained popularity in the 18th century, but it's thought the fika custom became embedded in Swedish culture with the arrival of patisseries a century later. Swedes now rank among the world's keenest coffee consumers, and the average person eats more than 200 cinnamon buns (kanelbullar) per year.
In Stockholm, this strong sweet tooth and passion for coffee has given rise to a string of artisan roasters and world-class bakeries and patisseries. Among the oldest is Vete-Katten on Kungsgatan, a traditional konditori (patisserie) that's been tempting Stockholmers with its creamy gateaux, pastries and confectionery since 1928. It's now helmed by award-winning pastry chef Johan Sandelin, and known for its fanciful layer cakes. Try a slice of the princess cake, filled with vanilla cream and coated in green marzipan, or a tempting Sarah Bernhardt, filled with chocolate ganache.
At the modern Fosch Artisan Pâtisserie, French pastry chef Damien Foschiatti uses seasonal ingredients to produce irresistible creations like framboise, a white chocolate mousse made with a raspberry crémeux.
Meanwhile, in the centre of Djurgården, Rosendal's Trädgård is one of Stockholm's loveliest places for fika. Set among greenhouses, flower beds and vegetable patches, the garden cafe spoils guests with slices of cake and small circular raspberry bites called hallongrottor.
Published in Issue 26 (winter 2024) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
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Phuket Vegetarian Festival, Phuket Old Town, Thailand Ninth lunar month (September or October; dates vary) A vegetarian festival, you might think, sounds pretty wholesome; a celebration of the tasty, health-bestowing properties of a meat-free diet. The island of Phuket, however, clearly didn't get the memo. While this celebration does incorporate much delicious plant-based food, the nine-day Phuket Vegetarian Festival is more explicitly characterised by deafening noise and mind-boggling ritual mutilation, with spirit mediums processing through the streets of Phuket Old Town by the thousand with swords, skewers and other sharp objects stuck through their faces at all angles. Firewalking and climbing ladders of knives are among the other trials which the spirit mediums undertake, all while in a deep trance, to the sound of a chorus of firecrackers. Not an event for the faint of heart. (Pearls, Peranakan culture and rare rituals: this is Phuket — but not as you know it.) Daniel Stables is the author of Fiesta: A Journey Through Festivity published by Icon Books (14 August 2025), RRP £20 National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click To subscribe to(UK) magazine click here .(Available in select countries only).
