The new rules of smart shoes for men

Telegraph

25-02-2025

If the past decade has been dominated by the reign of the chunky trainer, we're currently stepping into the era of the smart shoe. Gone are the days of sneakers with the proportions of icebergs that you may well have spotted on the feet of your Gen Z son or nephew. Right now, it's all about refined, polished footwear designed to complement equally elegant outfits.
But make no mistake: this new wave of smart shoes is anything but stuffy. From the elongated-toe Oxfords at Loewe, to the apron-toe derbies at traditional British shoemaker Church's, and the sleek penny loafers cropping up everywhere, there's a fresh air of sophistication at play.
You already know how to wear a proper shoe, but it's worth dipping your well-shod toe into other forms if you're curious. Here, some of the industry's leading players share a few key rules to follow.
It's all about grained leathers
In 2025, smart shoes are no longer reserved for formal occasions – they're just as easily paired with suits as they are with (cashmere) tracksuit bottoms and oversized overcoats. The key to mastering the shift is to opt for shoes crafted from grained leathers, which are less polished than smooth calfskin yet more durable than suede.
'We've seen a significant rise in sales of textured leather chukka boots and loafers,' says George Glasgow Jr., owner and CEO of George Cleverley shoes. 'Deer or calfskin with a grain is far easier to maintain than a smooth calf, which scratches easily. These hides are robust and wearable year-round.'
Tim Little, creative director and owner of Grenson, echoes Glasgow's sentiment: 'The most important thing to consider when wearing smart shoes in 2025 is the longevity of the leather. With quality full-grain leather, your shoes will only get better over time. Cheap leather, on the other hand, deteriorates quickly – cracking and scuffing instead of developing a rich patina.'
Asa grained leather boots, £345, Grenson
Try oxblood on for size
Ever since Gucci crowned burgundy its couleur du jour in 2024, rich shades of claret, beaujolais, and oxblood have dominated – especially in footwear. And for good reason, as hues in the burgundy family are incredibly versatile, whether you opt for Gucci's signature oxblood snaffle-toe loafers or a pair of polished claret postman shoes from Church's. 'My top tip is to go for oxblood shoes,' says GQ' s fashion editor Angelo Mitakos. 'They work seamlessly with black, navy, and grey, adding a subtle pop of color without being too loud.'
Harry Derby shoes, £310, Scarosso
Consider a smart deck shoe
Cult brands like The Row and Saman Amel have found great success in reimagining the classic deck shoe in recent seasons, transforming the low-key classic into a refined staple that bridges the gap between tailoring and casualwear. 'We've seen a huge surge in demand for boat shoes, particularly in black or grey deerskin with a bit of texture,' says George Glasgow Jr. 'Clients are gravitating towards smarter takes on the silhouette – something they can wear just as easily with chinos on the weekend as with jeans for a more relaxed look.'
Nubuck shoes, £34.99, Sperry
Split-toe derbies are an easy halfway house
The apron toe derby is the new secret weapon in your smart footwear arsenal; a style that features a large 'U' shape on the upper of the shoe, with a distinctive meeting point by way of stitching between the upper and the toes. 'We have a split-toe derby with a hand-stitched apron, and it's been incredibly popular – especially in antique brown calf on a smart round toe,' says George Glasgow Jr.
Cheaney split-toe shoes, £160, Abbot's
Choose elegance over clomp
'Your shoes must be light on the foot.' Says shoe designer Manolo Blahnik. 'I cannot bear heaviness in shoes, as it looks like foot furniture.' He continues. 'The way one walks is of course important,with grace, confidence and poise. One should be effortless.'
Snowdon leather shoes, £895, Manolo Blahnik
Avoid vintage
In the market for a new suit? Consider going vintage. Shopping for smart shoes? It's worth buying new. 'Shoes are the one thing I always invest in brand new,' says Angelo Mitakos. 'Vintage pairs often come with issues – the sole can start to separate, or the heel might crumble. The only exception I make is for Patrick Cox Wannabe loafers, simply because you can't buy them new anymore and I love them.'
Sagan suede loafers, £430, Baudoin & Lange
Pay attention to polish
Regularly polishing your smart shoes isn't just about maintaining their longevity – it's also a simple way to elevate your outfit. Scuffed, dull shoes can undermine even the strongest look, while a well-maintained pair will demonstrate your attention to detail. 'If you're over 40, keep your shoes polished – otherwise, you'll look like you've lost your job,' says Tim Little. 'If you're under 30, the beaten-up vintage look just about works.'
Loake shoe polish kit, £110, Sam Turner
Think about your socks
A pair of beautiful shoes is only as good as the socks you choose to team them with, so think carefully and choose something bold but not silly – a bright red sock will work beautifully with a midnight blue suit and some brown shoes, whilst a green sock will look excellent with a pair of dark jeans and a suede loafer. 'Wear bright socks,' agrees Manolo Blahnik. 'I love brightly coloured, clashing socks from Paul Smith. There is nothing more hideous than shoes with no socks!'
Striped socks, £22, Paul Smith
Opt for classic British brands
The beauty of a well-crafted pair of classic shoes is that, with proper care, they'll last a lifetime – meaning you'll wear them as readily in 20 years when the smart shoe cycle inevitably returns as you do today. Just be sure to invest in quality and maintain your shoes properly: use shoe trees to maintain the shape of the upper, polish them regularly, and choose brands with true shoemaking pedigree. 'Investing in quality is imperative,' says Angelo Mitakos. 'Church's and Loake are two of my go-to brands.'
Chetwynd, £940, Church's
Avoid logos…
It should go without saying that smart shoes and bold logos don't mix – leave the ostentatious branding to the sneakerheads. 'Your shoes should be free of logos, or if they have one, it should be very discreet,' says Tim Little. 'My rule of thumb? If you can spot the logo on someone else's shoes from a distance, it's too obvious. But if you can only see it up close on your own pair, that's acceptable.'
Penny loafers, £460, Officine Creative
And pointy toes
Pointed toes can work well in a black tie setting, where the angular elegance will complement a more formal vibe. Outside of that, they're best avoided, as they can quickly veer into medieval court jester territory. 'It's best to avoid overly pointy shapes and stick with a classic round toe,' says Tim Little. 'If you're looking for something a bit more refined, an almond toe is a great middle ground – it offers a slightly more sophisticated silhouette without going too extreme.'
Jones Bootmaker Oxfords, £110, John Lewis
Don't forget the rest of your outfit
It goes without saying that a classic pair of black or chocolate brown Oxfords or derbies will work brilliantly with proper tailoring in a moody shade. Yet such smart shoes can be just as versatile when paired with more casual looks. Consider slipping into a pair of penny loafers with some pleated trousers from Olive and an oversized sweater from Studio Nicholson, or rocking your new pair of apron-toe derbies with high-waisted white officer jeans from L.E.J. London and an oversized tweed blazer.
The key to the success of your look lies in the balance: ensure that your colours work together and that the textures in your outfit complement one another. Pair grained leather or suede with denim or flannel, while polished leather will work best with equally smooth super 120s wools or velvets.
'Your shoes must be fitting for the occasion,' agrees Manolo Blahnik. 'A patent lace-up style for black tie events, derby style shoes or boots are best for smart casual, loafers for summer suiting, and monk strap of brogues for adding panache to business or semi-formal outfits.'