Braid styles and tips for the tender-headed girlies

News24

01-07-2025

Sitting in the salon chair as the hairstylist tugs, pulls and combs through your hair to create the perfect parting, you keep telling yourself that 'pain is beauty'.
If you've ever felt like the hairstylist took their frustrations out on your scalp, there's a reason for that.
While tender-headedness is more of a cultural term than a medical one, scalp sensitivities are real, especially for those who like to do protective styles like braids and cornrows.
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Thandekile Mziyako, a natural hair specialist and founder of Sandton salon BraidsByThandekile, explains to TRUELOVE, 'Some women naturally have more sensitive scalps – often referred to as being 'tender-headed.' This can be due to genetics, skin conditions, hormonal changes or a lower pain threshold. In some cases, it's also due to tension from prior hairstyling, scalp dryness or inflammation.
'Additionally, the skill and technique of the stylist play a huge role – poor sectioning or excessive pulling can cause unnecessary pain, regardless of the client's scalp sensitivity.'
Thandekile's salon has been the beauty partner for Miss South Africa and its reality show Crown Chasers for the last few years, and she knows a thing or two about creating long-lasting, stunning braiding styles while protecting the scalp.
If you're looking for a long-lasting protective style that won't leave your scalp on fire for days afterwards, Thandekile recommends a few styles that are low tension, lightweight and don't need small, tight sections.
Knotless braids
Knotless braids have become a popular technique that does without the tension and pulling of regular box braids that start with a tight knot at the base.
Thandekile explains that knotless braids 'start without a knot at the base, making them gentler on the scalp'
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Lightweight crochet locs
Crocheted faux locs are a protective style where synthetic hair is wrapped around or crocheted onto natural hair using a crochet hook to mimic the style locs.
Using thinner loc extensions for a more lightweight feel – and an experienced stylist – will give you the best results with minimal discomfort.
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Human hair braids and locs
Oftentimes, a synthetic hairpiece is the culprit for pain and itchiness, especially for those with sensitive skin.
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Flat twists or cornrows
Plaiting cornrows, especially with added hair, can be notoriously painful for some. Thandekile recommends using your natural hair with no extensions in the styling and minimal tension.
If colour and length are non-negotiable, Thandekile's braiding method is a go-to.
'The key is using what I call 'firm but not tight' method, to create clean parting, perfect size and tension or pain-free styling based on the client's comfort level.'
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Thandekile's tips for pain and itchiness after braiding
Prep the scalp with a moisturising treatment before braiding – healthy scalps handle tension better. We have our in-house products that soothe the scalp and soften natural hair before braiding (help create seamless, painless parts and sectioning).
Avoid tight styles and speak up during installation if it's too tight.
Use a soothing scalp mist before and after braiding with ingredients like peppermint or aloe vera to reduce itchiness and inflammation.
Sleep with a satin bonnet or pillowcase to reduce friction and irritation.
For discomfort, a warm compress or light scalp massage with natural oils like black castor oil can also help ease tension.