
History, serenity and innovative food at Farnham Estate, Co Cavan
From serene spa hotels to invigorating day retreats, Ireland's wellness sector is booming.
When it comes to unwinding, we've never had so many options. Immersive spa gardens, urban saunas, lakeside hot tubs, thalassotherapy specialists, and a seemingly infinite number of infinity pools, the Irish hospitality sector has well and truly tapped into wellness.
One new addition is Farnham Estate's collaboration with Comfort Zone, the B Corp certified Italian skincare brand specialising in sustainable face and body treatments and products. I was invited, along with a group of journalists, to try the brand's new treatments in the hotel spa.
I was last in Farnham Estate in mid-2022, when the long shadow of the Covid-19 pandemic still lingered over the stately manor house hotel and reared its head in things like widely spaced dining tables and conversations punctuated with adjusting our face masks.
Returning this year felt like walking into a different hotel entirely: as lovely as the first trip was, the sense of bustle and atmosphere in my most recent visit showed just how vibrant a spot it is - and always was, based on its history.
Once the the home of John Maxwell, Baron Farnham, the 400 year-old grand manor house is located a short drive from Cavan Town and was once the seat of one of the most prolific land-owning families in the region. Set on 1,300 acres of sprawling land, it has been restored and expanded, with a modern glass structure snaking around the back of the majestic stone facade.
After a drive of just under two hours from Dublin, we arrived in time for afternoon tea in the Music Room, recently revamped into a luxurious and opulent space. The green wallpaper and opulent chairs and corner couches create a serene setting, made all the more romantic by the long windows that overlook the green lawn in front of the manor house.
The afternoon tea was one of the best I've had. Finger sandwiches with egg and truffle, a peppery charcuterie-filled wrap and delicate smoked salmon on brown bread all went down a treat. The scones were buttery and sweet, while the top tier of desserts was devoured almost instantly. Pistachio and strawberry tarts, a coconut-dusted Swiss roll and choux au craquelin filled with chocolate mouse and a tromp l'oeil cherry were delicious.
Since the sun was shining we decided to walk off our tea on one of the many trails encircling the grounds. There are no less than six walking trails on the estate, all of which loop through or around the mature woodland and a number of loughs: Farnham Lough, Derrygrid Lough and Coal Pit Lough.
We checked into our room next, located in the modern extension. Eight of the hotel's 12 suites are located in the manor house, the column-fronted entrance of which is preserved in its ornate glory inside the modern reception area and offers a peek at a winding staircase, opulent wallpaper and dimly lit rooms. The other rooms, meanwhile, are bright and airy, with exceptionally comfortable beds.
My favourite - and unexpected - feature was the sliding hidden door that created a window from above the bath into the bedroom. Not sure why you'd need it, but it's great for spooking your unsuspecting boyfriend while he puts his feet up post-drive.
I was invited to try the Himalayan Salt Massage Ritual as part of the trip. If, like me, you were hoping for something a bit vigorous, this isn't that massage. My therapist Evangelina talked me through each step, stressing that it was less hands-on than other massages but it still proved very relaxing.
First, she traced pressure points on my body using solid blocks of pink Himalayan salt that were heated on a little plate. It was similar to a hot stone massage, but with more controlled heat as each block could be turned depending on what muscle Evangelina was targeting. I'd mentioned my shoulders were tight, so she kindly spent some time releasing them.
Next, was the salt scrub, which she applied all over me before wrapping me in a soft cloth. The process did feel like being licked by hundreds of cats, but my skin was left buzzing with sensation afterwards. While I marinated like a piece of steak, Evangelina did some scalp massage, before directing me to the shower to rinse the scrub off.
Heavily seasoned and polished to perfection, she finished the massage by applying the Comfort Zone body cream, leaving my skin visibly shining.
The adult-only spa was designed Heinz Schletterer, whose previous projects include spas at the Waldorf Astoria in New York, the Sandy Lane in Barbados and the Queen Mary cruise liner, and is predictably elegant.
Finally, it was time for dinner in the Cedars Steakhouse, located in the modern part of the hotel. Unsurprisingly, the menu has an impressive selection of steaks, but we opted for a T-bone and a côte de boeuf. The T-bone arrived charred to perfection, while my côte de boeuf was rich and fatty.
The menu overall is inventive and seasonal, with the scallop and chive ravioli starter especially delicious. The poitín-cured cod with grapefruit was an innovative dish, with a delightful focus on differing textures. We finished our meal with a coconut and yuzu dessert and an exceptional ginger and orange baked Alaska.
The verdict
If it's a serene staycation you're after, Farnham Estate is worth the drive. From the expansive golf course to the leisurely walks and spa, there's just enough activity on site to keep you occupied and ideally far away from your phone. I was especially impressed with the food on this trip, and will be thinking about that baked Alaska for many days to come.
The details
We stayed in a Patio King Room as invited guests for one night, prices for which start at €190 with the hotel's spring sale. I tried the 60-minute Himalayan Salt Massage Ritual, which costs €125.
Our breakfast and evening meals were also included.
Other hotels in the area include:
Slieve Russell Hotel
Cavan Crystal Hotel
Cabra Castle Hotel
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