Riesling, muscadet, sherry: Time to give these unloved wines a second chance
This week some great unloved
wines
. They include once popular regions, countries and grape varieties that have fallen out of favour for a variety of reasons. Often it happens when the producers of a popular region meet increased demand with cheaper and inferior versions of the real thing. Not surprisingly sales drop and it can be difficult to rebuild a name. Muscadet, sherry, and German wine arguably fall into this category.
Other wines have managed to seduce us back. Austria, once shunned by Irish wine drinkers following a scandal in the 1980s, is now back on our shelves, where it is joined by an ever-growing array of fantastic Beaujolais.
Muscadet has always puzzled me. It is generally light, fresh and fruity, perfect for all those albariño and sauvignon blanc drinkers. The multiples offer decent inexpensive versions, and some of the independents have a few seriously good wines that offer great value.
At one stage, Alsace was one of our go-to wine regions. Names such as Trimbach, Hugel and Schlumberger appeared in every restaurant wine list and wine shop. As with Muscadet, the style is generally very appealing; fresh, dry white wines without any oak influence.
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Riesling in general, and German riesling in particular, is one of the world's great wines. Wines labelled Trocken are dry, those labelled Kabinett deliciously delicate, low alcohol and off-dry – perfect for sipping over the summer months.
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Two German wines that are a little bit more expensive, but certainly worth it
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I have come to accept that there will never be a real sherry revolution. It will remain an object of adoration to a small group of aficionados (I include myself) who are aware how great these wines are and what value they offer.
Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine Sur Lie, Château de l'Auberdière 2023
Muscadet de Sèvre & Maine Sur Lie, Château de l'Auberdière 2023
12%, €9.20, €11.50
Light and fresh with mouth-watering orchard fruits, lemon zest and a lip-smacking dry finish. This would be perfect with mussels, oysters and other seafood.
From Aldi
Kuentz-Bas Mosaïk Riesling 2022
Kuentz-Bas Mosaïk Riesling 2022
12.5%, €21.95
An excellent racy refreshing dry riesling with vibrant citrus and minerals. Perfect with chicken, pork and fish dishes as well as summery salads.
From O'Briens
Wagner Stempel Riesling Trocken 2023
Wagner Stempel Riesling Trocken 2023
12%, €23
Floral, with succulent elegant ripe peach fruits, a touch of spice and a dry finish. This would go nicely with Asian seafood and chicken dishes.
From BaRossa, D4; Baggot Street Wines; Martins, D3; Green Man, D6; WineOnline.ie; Donnybrook Fair; Lilith, D7; Mortons, D6
Lustau Puerto Fino Sherry
Lustau Puerto Fino Sherry
15%, €13-€14 per half-bottle
Delightfully racy, tangy green apples, with almonds, green olives and a lovely saline note. It finishes dry and long. Heavenly with almonds, Iberico ham and fish tapas.
From Mitchells, Glasthule, Hatch Street and Avoca stores; Prim's, Kinsale; Whelehan's, Loughlinstown; The Vintry, D6; Ardkeen, Waterford; Redmonds, D6; The Wine Centre, Kilkenny; Barnhill Stores, Dalkey; Bradleys, Cork
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