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Canberra's newest hatted restaurant is a beacon of big-night energy

Canberra's newest hatted restaurant is a beacon of big-night energy

The Age21-04-2025
Lunetta, the reimagining of the starship-like modernist restaurant atop Red Hill, is not part of this trend. But it's not exactly the other thing either; proprietor Tracy Keeley is no blow-in, having proven herself an astute operator at celebrated local cafes Bookplate and Pollen. Instead, Lunetta is a dramatic reframing of fine-dining for the capital, maintaining the big-night-out energy of longstanding stalwarts, but unquestionably for the here and now.
Plenty of that is down to chef Tristan Rebbettes, a former Good Food Guide Young Chef of the Year nominee in whose hands familiar dishes have been given fresh perspective.
Yamba prawns aren't split and served in the shell, but half-peeled with heads and tails on, grilled hard, then plated with bright salsa rossa and a peperoncino thrumming with the fruit-forward heat of chilli. Crudo equals precision slices of ruby-red Ulladulla tuna loin under a mosaic of blowtorched orange segments, figs and marigold, with burnt honey expanding the dimensions.
The rest is down to the sense of occasion. Designed by Miles Jakl and later extended in modernist style by Enrico Taglietti, the 1963 building shines in the sun, with faceted bay windows and an elevated position offering views over the city.
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Lunetta, the reimagining of the starship-like modernist restaurant atop Red Hill, is not part of this trend. But it's not exactly the other thing either; proprietor Tracy Keeley is no blow-in, having proven herself an astute operator at celebrated local cafes Bookplate and Pollen. Instead, Lunetta is a dramatic reframing of fine-dining for the capital, maintaining the big-night-out energy of longstanding stalwarts, but unquestionably for the here and now. Plenty of that is down to chef Tristan Rebbettes, a former Good Food Guide Young Chef of the Year nominee in whose hands familiar dishes have been given fresh perspective. Yamba prawns aren't split and served in the shell, but half-peeled with heads and tails on, grilled hard, then plated with bright salsa rossa and a peperoncino thrumming with the fruit-forward heat of chilli. Crudo equals precision slices of ruby-red Ulladulla tuna loin under a mosaic of blowtorched orange segments, figs and marigold, with burnt honey expanding the dimensions. The rest is down to the sense of occasion. Designed by Miles Jakl and later extended in modernist style by Enrico Taglietti, the 1963 building shines in the sun, with faceted bay windows and an elevated position offering views over the city.

Canberra's newest hatted restaurant is a beacon of big-night energy
Canberra's newest hatted restaurant is a beacon of big-night energy

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Canberra's newest hatted restaurant is a beacon of big-night energy

Lunetta, the reimagining of the starship-like modernist restaurant atop Red Hill, is not part of this trend. But it's not exactly the other thing either; proprietor Tracy Keeley is no blow-in, having proven herself an astute operator at celebrated local cafes Bookplate and Pollen. Instead, Lunetta is a dramatic reframing of fine-dining for the capital, maintaining the big-night-out energy of longstanding stalwarts, but unquestionably for the here and now. Plenty of that is down to chef Tristan Rebbettes, a former Good Food Guide Young Chef of the Year nominee in whose hands familiar dishes have been given fresh perspective. Yamba prawns aren't split and served in the shell, but half-peeled with heads and tails on, grilled hard, then plated with bright salsa rossa and a peperoncino thrumming with the fruit-forward heat of chilli. Crudo equals precision slices of ruby-red Ulladulla tuna loin under a mosaic of blowtorched orange segments, figs and marigold, with burnt honey expanding the dimensions. The rest is down to the sense of occasion. Designed by Miles Jakl and later extended in modernist style by Enrico Taglietti, the 1963 building shines in the sun, with faceted bay windows and an elevated position offering views over the city.

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