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This popular seafood counter just opened its second location. Here's the best thing on the menu

This popular seafood counter just opened its second location. Here's the best thing on the menu

Each week, critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan shares some of her favorite recent bites, the dishes and snacks and baked goods that didn't find their way into a full review. Want the list a few days earlier? Sign up for her free newsletter, Bite Curious.
Where better to eat raw fish than at a fishmonger? Billingsgate in Noe Valley is a seafood market that sells everything from whole branzino to trays of uni, but they also have a counter and a few tables where you can tuck into a poke bowl or toss back a few oysters. My strongest recommendation is the hamachi crudo ($18), served with thinly shaved slices of hearts of palm and segments of grapefruit. It was all dressed aggressively with finely chopped shallots, olive oil and flaky sea salt (which some of the other dishes were lacking). East Bay residents take note: Billingsgate recently expanded to Oakland, taking over the Hapuku Fish Shop stall at Rockridge Market Hall.
Belfare serves a superior fried chicken sandwich. The Petaluma business got its start at farmers markets and moved into a brick-and-mortar location in a strip mall in 2022. The classic ($18), with sesame mayo and plenty of Cajun-spiced slaw, is always available, but seasonal specials are worth a peek as well. A recent offering featured ingredients you might find on a torta — piquant tomatillo salsa, cilantro, avocado — loaded onto a Parker House bun with grilled spring onions and fried chicken. If I have one quibble it's that the wet ingredients led to a bit of a soggy bottom, but the flavors didn't miss. Pair it with a side of furikake-spiced fingerling potatoes ($11), served with more of that delectable sesame mayo.
Belfare. 1410 S McDowell Blvd. # D, Petaluma. belfaresonoma.com
While in Petaluma, I took a stroll through downtown and passed a sandwich board at the entrance to an alley advertising a business called Once Upon a Slush. After walking past a row of industrial garbage bins, my expectations were low, but I perked up at the sight of two women eating layered frozen desserts out of tiny plastic cups. Once Upon a Slush sells both Italian ices and soft serve, and the trick, one of the women told me, is to combine them. The full menu was overwhelming with various syrups, floats, shakes, frappes and such, so I just copied her order — creamsicle, with a belt of vanilla soft serve bisecting two bands of orange Italian ice ($5). As the owner of the shop handed over my kiddie cup, he said confidently, 'See you tomorrow.' If I lived in Petaluma, he probably would.
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‘Everyone is feeling it': This book nails millennial alienation
‘Everyone is feeling it': This book nails millennial alienation

Los Angeles Times

time3 hours ago

  • Los Angeles Times

‘Everyone is feeling it': This book nails millennial alienation

Emily Hunt Kivel's book is unlike any novel you will read this year, a story about millennial angst that is also a bewitching fable. Evie Cavallo, Kivel's protagonist, is a 20-something mid-level graphic designer at a New York ad agency who loses her rented apartment and finds herself cast adrift. Landing in a fictional backwater town in rural Texas called Gulluck, Evie discovers a hidden gift for shoemaking and finds herself welcomed into an eccentric community of fellow cobblers. 'Dwelling' is social commentary wrapped into a delightful allegory about identity, work, ritual and tradecraft. I chatted with Kivel about her debut novel, and how, despite its fantastical elements, 'Dwelling' nails our present cultural moment. (Please note: The Times may earn a commission through links to whose fees support independent bookstores.) I started reading your book thinking, 'Ugh, a polemic about the housing crisis,' and by the end of the book I was deeply moved by Evie's journey. That's what I wanted. I wanted readers to think they were reading one thing and to end up at the end thinking, 'Where the f— was I?' I wanted to write a book that changed shape and form while in the reader's hands. Was that the original intention going in? I don't know if I started out with the intention of writing the book I did, but I certainly didn't want to write a maudlin dystopian commentary on the housing crisis. I did want to touch on this feeling of complete instability that millennials in particular are feeling, but also I think everyone is feeling it to some extent — this incredible lack of stability, and alienation. Evie, maybe, kind of wants to be a creative, but instead she blossoms by learning a craft that involves using her hands and her head, not a computer. 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What is our purpose in life? I think we're meant to feel relatively valueless in our society right now. The economy wants us to feel that way, and so I think what Evie is doing is finding value in herself and giving the middle finger to the version of society that she was living in. The key element of Evie's new life is this robust community that welcomes her. I wanted another world to open up to Evie, a world that's oriented towards life rather than the self. The book is really the story of how to find a home, and what makes a home. Community is the only actual way to resist the forces that we have in our society that are alienating us from our work, friends and family. In the acknowledgments, you thank the UCLA Writing Extension program. What was that experience like for you? One of the most formative experiences of my life was the UCLA Extension. I went to UC Santa Barbara and was absolutely miserable. and so I graduated early and moved to L.A. 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Potempa: ‘Top Chef' Fabio Viviani welcomes guests at his new ‘Alto' restaurant at Wind Creek Casino and Hotel
Potempa: ‘Top Chef' Fabio Viviani welcomes guests at his new ‘Alto' restaurant at Wind Creek Casino and Hotel

Chicago Tribune

time4 hours ago

  • Chicago Tribune

Potempa: ‘Top Chef' Fabio Viviani welcomes guests at his new ‘Alto' restaurant at Wind Creek Casino and Hotel

It took me about six months to make my way for a visit to Northwest Indiana's newest neighbor for gaming, hotel hospitality and dining at Wind Creek Chicago Southland, anchored off Hasted Street in East Hazel Crest. Crowning the top story of the 17-floor mirrored window high-rise hotel and spa is Alto, the newest restaurant opened and operated by Chef Fabio Viviani of finalist fame from the fifth season of Bravo's 'Top Chef' in 2008. Next year, the kitchen competition series celebrates its 20th anniversary since it launched in March 2006. Near the end of May, just as Alto was about to open, I had the chance to interview Viviani and tour his top floor restaurant and bar, which have remarkable views including the Chicago Skyline (on a clear day) and the mammoth Thornton Quarry, a south suburban landmark bisected by Interstate 294. Alto is the gaming property's signature Italian steakhouse. 'I describe it as an elevated dining journey with our expertly grilled steaks, fresh seafood, and house-made pastas such as squid ink lumache with frutti di mare, pistachio-crusted lamb chops and lobster fra diavolo,' Viviani said. 'The ambiance is sleek and refined, designed to match the panoramic backdrop and the menu's contemporary offerings. With Alto, we want to elevate guests' dining experience by delivering refined flavors and exceptional hospitality. I call it approachable elegance.' Viviani, 46, who already has a downtown Chicago presence at Bar Siena, BomboBar and Seville, is part of a 'multi-concept partnership' with Wind Creek Hospitality. The casino gaming space opened in November 2024, but the hotel and spa at Wind Creek in East Hazel Crest didn't open until mid-April 2025. Viviani's team was already overseeing several of the other on-property dining options, which opened earlier and are located in the arrival area lobby of the casino. They include Shuck It, a seafood and oyster bar; Abuela Cocina; Burgers'n Wiches; Bottega; and more. Even though Viviani wasn't the winner of his 'Top Chef' season, he was voted 'Fan Favorite' and the show served as the springboard to help him open more than 40 restaurants, bars, and hospitality venues across the country. Viviani has published four successful cookbooks, including the New York Times best-seller 'Fabio's Italian Kitchen' as a nod to his youth growing up in Florence, Italy. By age 11, Fabio was working nights at a local bakery before his first entrance to the world of restaurants in 1992 at age 14, working at the 120-seat Il Pallaio trattoria in Florence, where he became a sous chef by age 16. While in Italy, he married wife Jessica and the couple moved to Southern California in 2005. Among his favorite product commercial endorsements throughout the years is his partnership with Bertolli Olive Oil, which assisted in his ingredient test kitchen for many recipes, including his delicious roasted tomato and zucchini salad. For more information and other recipes, visit or Dressing: 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 1/2 cup Bertolli Extra Virgin Olive Oil 1 clove garlic, minced 1/2 teaspoon paprika Salad: 6 Roma tomatoes, cut into 1/2-inch slices 4 zucchini, cut into 1/8-inch ribbons Bertolli Extra Virgin Olive Oil as needed 2 garlic cloves, minced Salt and pepper to taste 2 balls (6-ounce each) of buffalo mozzarella, cut into 3/4-inch slices Approximately 10 large leaves of fresh basil Shaved Parmesan cheese Directions: 1. Whisk together dressing ingredients in a small bowl. Set aside. 2. In a large bowl, combine tomatoes, zucchini and minced garlic. Season with salt and pepper and drizzle with Bertolli Extra Virgin Olive Oil. 3. Roast tomatoes and zucchini on the grill for about 10 minutes (use a grill basket if necessary), or until nice and evenly roasted. 4. To assemble the salad, place the tomato, piece of folded zucchini and mozzarella on top of each other, like a tower, with a basil leaf in between layers, seasoning each layer with a little salt and pepper and a drizzle of dressing. Sprinkle with shaved Parmesan.

Some of S.F.'s most coveted handmade pasta comes from this one-woman operation
Some of S.F.'s most coveted handmade pasta comes from this one-woman operation

San Francisco Chronicle​

time7 hours ago

  • San Francisco Chronicle​

Some of S.F.'s most coveted handmade pasta comes from this one-woman operation

Each week, critic MacKenzie Chung Fegan shares some of her favorite recent bites, the dishes and snacks and baked goods that didn't find their way into a full review. Want the list a few days earlier? Sign up for her free newsletter, Bite Curious. I don't get to eat dinner at home too often, and when I do, I'm usually reaching for something low-lift to supplement leftovers. Now in rotation is frozen pasta from Sfoglia Club, the one-woman micro-batch pasta company from Tanaya Joshi. A product designer by day, she folds intricate filled pastas by night and sells them via Hotplate. The drop model will be familiar to any sneakerhead, and her batches of balanzoni and tortelli sell out quickly. I got my hands on a couple boxes of sachetti — Joshi's version kind of look like hamentaschen but with four sides instead of three — stuffed with ricotta, corn and chives. The filling is very delicate; I've been saucing the sachetti ($20 per box) with butter, Calabrian chile and Parmesan so as not to overpower it. I didn't intend for this week's installment to be What I've Been Eating, Corn Edition, but facts are facts: Restaurants are exulting in corn season, and I am happily along for the ride. At Lunette in the Ferry Building, chef Nite Yun stir-fries fresh kernels with coconut milk, chicken schmaltz, dried shrimp and scallions. Yun modestly told me that the wok does all the work — the corn takes on just a touch of char — to which I say, 'Yeah, right.' It's a glorious summer side dish that I can't wait to eat again. Lunette. Ferry Building, 1, Suite 33/47, San Francisco. Over in Emeryville, Good to Eat also has a seasonal sweet corn special. For $14, you get two half-ears of corn, skewered and grilled. The singed cobs are then lacquered with shacha, a Taiwanese barbecue sauce, and coated in sesame seeds. If 'barbecue sauce' conjures up memories of sticky-sweet Kansas City ribs or tangy, vinegary Carolina pulled pork, shacha is something else entirely — savory and briny thanks to dried shellfish.

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