A fresh era in French gastronomy

Bangkok Post

a day ago

It is not really news that the only female chef in the world with the most Michelin-starred restaurants, a total of 10, will be joining Bangkok's culinary scene at Le Normandie, Mandarin Oriental.
In an exclusive with the Bangkok Post, chef Anne-Sophie Pic talks about Le Normandie's new chapter, which the restaurant embarks on in September.
Celebrated for her bold vision and avant-garde approach to French gastronomy, chef Pic's philosophy is a creative process she calls "Suffusion".
"This approach, starting with an aromatic framework, brings together various techniques and preparations that reveal and create a dialogue between the ingredients. I like to think of tasting as a non-linear experience and offer our diners a sequence of flavours that unfold throughout the tasting," she says.
"I believe that cuisine is a universal language, a space where cultures meet. Opening a new chapter at Mandarin Oriental, Bangkok, an iconic institution that embodies elegance and refinement, is an adventure that excites me. I look forward to creating an experience where French gastronomy engages in a dialogue with the vibrant energy of Thai culture.
"The restaurant Anne-Sophie Pic at Le Normandie marks our first collaboration with the Mandarin Oriental, born from the trust placed in us by Laurent Kleitman and Mandarin Oriental. I aspire to offer Le Normandie, an emblem of French gastronomy in Bangkok, a true tribute to its history through a unique culinary experience. I was honoured to discover Le Normandie in 1998 while cooking during a gastronomic week and I'm excited to present an experience where French cuisine resonates with the vibrant energy of Thai culture.
"Some of my signature dishes, like the Berlingots, will be presented with smoked Camembert, saffron, chamomile and tomato as key elements. Then, there's the lobster dashi with red fruits, a reinterpretation that reflects both French and Asian cuisines."
The Berlingots is a dish the chef imagined "as a bridge between my roots, local produce and distant influences that inspire me". The signature dish changes depending on which country her restaurants are based in. The consistent feature is the tetrahedral shape, inspired by Berlingots de Carpentra fruit candies from Vaucluse, Provence, said to have been created by a cook for Pope Clement V in the 14th century. Its name, "Berlingot", is said to be derived from the Pope's given name, Bertrand de Got.
The chef de cuisine at Anne-Sophie Pic at Le Normandie will be Tamaki Kobayashi.
"She began as an intern at my restaurant Pic in Valence and steadily rose through the ranks to become my head chef at my three-Michelin-star establishment. Tamaki embodies rigour, attention to detail and precision -- qualities essential for leading a team with discipline and harmony. Her talent and passion for gastronomy shine through every dish. Our collaboration, which has lasted nearly 14 years, now takes on full meaning in this new shared challenge," says chef Pic.
Anne-Sophie Pic at Le Normandie will offer different options: an à la carte menu, a lunch menu -- with a selection of starters, mains and desserts -- designed for a lighter, more refined experience, and of course, a tasting menu to fully immerse in the essence of the experience.
No stranger to Asia, chef Pic first explored the continent at the age of 21.
"During my travels in Asia, I had the privilege of discovering Thailand, where I was struck by the complexity of its aromas, the diversity of its ingredients and the generosity of its cuisine. When creating the menu for Le Normandie, I naturally drew inspiration from these powerful memories. Signature ingredients that I like cooking with, such as galangal, kaffir lime and green curry, will flavour my creations, always with a spirit of respect and balance of flavours.
"Thai cuisine is distinguished by its intense flavours. It is this dialogue between the richness of French cuisine and Thai influence that I wish to bring to life in every dish. As an example, langoustines are accompanied by a broth crafted from my interpretation of green curry."
Her signature lobster dish is inspired by her travels in Japan, where chef Pic spent six months. Her must-do in any new country is visit the local markets and restaurants to deepen her understanding of local dining habits and familiarise herself with the produce available.
"Meeting local producers and artisans provides a valuable immersion and allows me to explore new products and textures. It broadens my sensory palette and inspires me greatly. All these discoveries fuel my thinking as I strive to create a cuisine that reflects who I am while paying tribute to Thai culture in all its vibrant and authentic richness. I look forward to rediscovering the markets, producers, ingredients and flavours during my visit, and the opening of the restaurant in September," says chef Pic.
Her culinary philosophy is also the name of her latest cookbook, in which the art of perfume-making relates with cooking.
"The art of perfumery and the art of gastronomy share the same sensory language. Just as a perfumer composes fragrances, I create my culinary creations around aromatic frameworks. There is a strong element of olfactory memory in my cooking. I often work with infusions, distillation or fermentation to capture the subtlety and complexity of an ingredient, often plant- or flower-based," explains chef Pic.
"Early in my career, I became fascinated by perfumery and discovered enfleurage -- a cold infusion technique known for its faithful preservation of flavours. I truly believe in the cross-fertilisation between different fields. My friendship with perfumer Francis Kurkdjian continually inspires me and is a sincere source of mutual enrichment."
As one of the world's most lauded female chefs, overseeing five restaurants across four countries [making Anne-Sophie Pic at Le Normandie her sixth], quality control is of the utmost importance.
"I regularly visit each of my restaurants. It's essential for me to immerse myself in the daily lives of the teams, maintain a strong connection with them and also to understand local trends, taste and refine my cuisine," says chef Pic.
"Travelling the world through its flavours is a real pleasure. It allows me to envision a unique identity for each of my restaurants, one that resonates with its environment. When it comes to creativity, Valence in France, remains the beating heart of our house. All the chefs from my restaurants around the world come there several times a year to the Pic Lab, my creative laboratory. Together, we develop dishes, test, exchange ideas and refine. It is an essential place for research, but also for passing on and sharing the DNA of my cuisine."
With a fully reimagined space and an inspired new design, envisioned in partnership with designers Humbert & Poyet, Anne-Sophie Pic at Le Normandie will blend heritage with modernity, preserving the elegance of its past while ushering in a fresh era of contemporary French cuisine.