Beyond the archway: Rediscovering the wizarding world at Universal Studios

Hindustan Times

6 days ago

As I walk beneath the archway, the mundane world of Muggles fades behind me. The worry of work deadlines, payments, and the distinct noise of responsibility is drowned out by the Harry Potter theme song that plays softly, on a loop, in the background. It casts a spell, and I find myself surrounded by wizards in long cloaks, brandishing their wands, portraits that talk, self-stirring cauldrons, and people sipping butterbeer. The surreal had taken shape just as I walked beneath the archway that marked the entrance to the Wizarding World of Harry Potter at Universal Studios Hollywood. If Los Angeles is the city of dreams, this theme park gives wings to those dreams. Hogwarts castle, with a view of Flight of the Hippogriff, Universal Studios Hollywood's first outdoor roller coaster (DAVID SPRAGUE)
'But isn't the park suitable only for kids?' remarked a friend as I mentioned my visit to Los Angeles, with a day set aside for the magical experience. Not quite. For one, Harry and I are contemporaries. We're both in our 40s. In fact, very recently, Harry turned 45 as J.K. Rowling set his birth date as 31st July 1980. Besides, isn't it the adults who truly need a break from the mundane? And it was the Potter series that turned adults into readers of children's books—so much so that the franchise came up with two editions of each book with identical text: one with cover artwork aimed at children and the other for adults.
Universal Studios Hollywood (media.universalparksusa.com)
Unlike other theme parks that exclusively target kids, at the Wizarding World of Harry Potter at Universal Studios Hollywood, you won't find princesses in flowing gowns and glass slippers, or men in top hats and candy-striped suits. The theme park doesn't call upon visitors to detach from reality or be an insufferable Pollyanna. Instead, it's magical—but in a way that's also surprisingly believable. The theme park didn't take me to a land far, far away; it only made me enter a new, more colourful, exciting dimension in our world. Instead of childish make-believe, what I found here was something deeper and more meaningful: the power of imagination, and the hope to hold on—particularly when life gets too much or too real.
Just as I enter Hogsmeade, I spot a stationary car. Only, it's not parked at ground level—it's surprisingly lodged in the treetops. I recognise it as the battered, blue Ford Anglia that Arthur Weasley upgraded with a few enchantments, including the fantastic ability to fly. The car also came with an 'invisibility booster'—clearly faulty, as many Muggles, such as myself, gawk at this rusty yet surreal feat of engineering. While it seems almost ridiculous to find a flying car, could it simply be that what Arthur Weasley built in the Potter world is what Elon Musk will eventually mass-produce in our world? But more importantly, could a Muggle (or even a wizard) attain such a feat if they hadn't dreamed of it?
Hogsmeade village at Universal Studios Hollywood (media.universalparksusa.com)
I walk the cobblestone lanes of Hogsmeade and spot Ollivanders. Its all-glass façade comes with concave shop displays, each featuring a single item: a wand. I open the doors and a bell tinkles to announce my arrival. The tiny store is dusty, dimly lit, and packed with visitors—just as I've always pictured Ollivanders after reading the books.
Along with a bunch of other curious Potterheads, I've signed up for the 'wand chooses the wizard' experience. Suddenly, a wall stacked with rectangular boxes bearing wands is turned into a door, and we are greeted by a wandkeeper. She leads us through this secret passageway and into another room where various wands are on display—those with phoenix tails, unicorn feathers, dragon heartstrings. I go towards the unicorn one, but the keeper immediately stops me: 'Remember, the wand chooses the wizard.' So I aim the magic wand at a cabinet bearing a vase full of flowers. Just as I say the magic words meant to fill the vase with water, the flowers wilt and die, leaving me embarrassed. Thankfully, a true wizard comes to the rescue and breathes new life into the flowers. I know that it's the magic of technology that killed and revived the faux roses. But in this otherworldly setting, the occult takes over my imagination, and plausible explanations take a back seat. Perhaps it is the attention to detail—a wandkeeper with flowing white hair, an intense gaze, and unmatched knowledge of wands—that makes the experience truly come alive.
Next, I enter Honeydukes, where the warm aroma of chocolate fills the air. Green shelves sit on a black-and-white chequered floor, with bright pink piping running across the ceiling. The shelves are lined with chocolate boxes and bell-shaped candy jars that seem to belong in an ancient apothecary. Within these boxes and jars are the most fabulous treats: chocolate frogs, peppermint toads, acid pops, Every Flavour Beans, and more. The pop colours, trippy packaging, clever yet bizarre names, and detailed eating instructions on the package elevate candy to a multisensory experience.
If you're looking for something stronger than a sugar rush, head down to the Hog's Head. The tavern serves up a variety of original draught beers and spirits, brewed exclusively for the park.
Back on Hogsmeade, I make my way towards the castle. Hogwarts looms large over the park. The sprawling fortress is a jumble of soaring towers, spires, defensive stone walls and battlements. It's majestic but also whimsical: the towers and spires seem to have picked their own height. Some are crooked, almost threatening to hurl towards you. While a castle is at the heart of most children's novels, this one is inviting and intimidating all at once. It's far from a Disney fairy castle, but not quite as dark as Tim Burton's imagination—striking that perfect balance.
Within the castle lies one of the most popular attractions in the park—Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey. After waiting in a long queue, I make it inside the castle. Portraits line the inner walls and characters tumble out of the frames to talk to visitors. Dumbledore talks through one such portrait, welcoming me to school. I can hear Harry, Hermione and Ron, lost in conversation. But I cannot spot them—until they appear as an apparition that seems to be looking straight at me. They remind me to catch a game of Quidditch while I'm at Hogwarts. The 3D effects, holographic projections, and multimodal technology blur the line between the supernatural and our world, creating an alternate universe. I get carried away in the drama and soon I'm on the ride, strapped into a seat, where robotic technology—coupled with sudden jerks, twists, turns, and holograms—takes me flying over Hogwarts. I duck as a golden snitch comes right at me. I wave at what appears to be Hagrid standing down below, outside his hut. My head is quite literally in the clouds and I'm soaring higher.
entrance to Hogwarts castle and "Harry Potter and the Forbidden Journey" ride - WWoHP at Universal Studios Hollywood (Photo by David Sprague)
But just then, I feel a cold gust of air, the temperature drops, and the lights dim, until I'm enveloped in darkness. In this pitch dark, voices come at me from various sides. There are no words, just low-toned, ominous sounds. Suddenly, creatures fly past me—too quick to notice what they are. The sinister tones get louder. My seat takes a sudden jerk, soars higher, faster, and then makes a sudden drop. I seem to be falling, face-forward. At this moment, I fear a malfunction, and news headlines of tragedies at theme parks immediately pop into my mind's eye. But then, I hear Harry saying, 'Hold on tight.' And I conquer the Dementors. As if reading my thoughts, the scene before me turns—the heroic trio take over, casting powerful incantations, destroying evil forces with a flick of their wands to keep the riders safe.
The sophisticated ride reminds me of the fabulous special effects in the movies. The last movie in the series—Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows (Part 2)—hit the screens way back in 2011. But just a few weeks ago, the franchise announced that filming has commenced on the very first TV adaptation of the book.
Night lights on Hogwarts Castle at Universal Studios Hollywood. (media.universalparksusa.com)
What began as a book, first published in 1997, continues to evolve across platforms. Rowling reportedly wrote the first chapter of the bestselling series in the midst of a life crisis—faced with financial issues, a marriage breakdown, and while battling depression. Yet, she penned stories that held millions of readers spellbound.
Remember, it all began with quill, ink, the courage to fight your demons, and the immense power of imagination. That's what I call 'magic'.