I've found the simple, tried-and-tested solution to overtourism
It's hard to argue with the demonstrators' points. Tourism, particularly the proliferation of short-term lets such as Airbnbs, is pushing up rents, exacerbating the housing crisis and forcing locals out of their own neighbourhoods. It is also changing the character of some of Europe's most magnificent cities. Historic restaurants and family-owned businesses are vanishing; in their place emerge yet more gaudy fast-food chains, bubble tea shops and vape stores. If that's your vibe, you may as well spend the weekend walking up and down Oxford Street.
Much needs to change, clearly, but the emphasis hasn't always been in the right place. Mitigation tactics appear to come in one of two forms: either a) curbing visitor numbers through headline-making policies such as tourist taxes, limiting cruise ship arrivals or even a complete ban on short-term rentals, which Barcelona plans to enforce from 2028; or b) suggesting travellers try 'destination dupe' alternatives instead (Catalan neighbour Girona is the go-to when it comes to Barca-alikes, which I'm sure they love there). But I'm not convinced tourists are going to stop wanting to visit these cities in significant numbers. They are popular for a reason — the art! The architecture! The mini beers and salty snacks! — and shouting or graffitiing 'go home' or 'go elsewhere' is unlikely to work.
So here is my proposal: send them to the suburbs. One city that is trying to pre-empt and stave off overtourism is the small but increasingly popular Ghent, whose tourist board is promoting what it calls 'spreading' — trying to distribute visitors throughout the city rather than having them concentrated in the historic centre. As anyone who's visited Ghent will know, it's a good 40-minute walk from the main train station to the city's central attractions, so it would make complete sense that more visitors stay overnight throughout this vast urban stretch instead of just the medieval core, which is what most tourists do (especially considering the city's impressive cycling infrastructure). The scheme is encouraging tourists to spend more time in less visited areas such as Dampoort, and wants more hotels to open city-wide.
• 16 of the world's most underrated cities
To take the example of an already overtouristed city, I can vouch for staying beyond Paris's Boulevard Périphérique. The suburb of Pantin, where I lived for six months (mainly because of the low rent), has all the edge of other northeastern areas within the ring road (the star turns being a host of canalside bars, dance theatre the Centre National de la Danse and the charming independent cinema Ciné 104). But you also get the sense of staying somewhere a lot more authentically French. Who needs the Pompidou Centre when you've got a massive E.Leclerc hypermarché on your doorstep?
For some cities, such as Barcelona, where tourism has reached such excessive levels that even the suburbs are sick of visitors, this might not be appropriate. But I have a back-up solution: commute. Faced with absurd hotel and Airbnb rates over Valentine's Day, I gave this a go in comparably overrun Amsterdam. We ended up in someone's garage in a seaside town called Zandvoort. The daily 20-minute train ride through a national park and Haarlem was gorgeous, and in the evenings we felt like the only Brits in town, doing our bit for the local economy at a time of year when it sees little custom. Similarly, this weekend, I'm off to a hotel in the mountains outside Alicante in Spain, and plan to pop into the city for tapas and a museum visit or two. I won't take it personally if they spritz me.
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The Sun
6 hours ago
- The Sun
I moved to Spain 4 years ago & will never be bored of it – I don't work & pick my kids up from school & go to the pool
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Telegraph
7 hours ago
- Telegraph
The 21 best restaurants in Madrid
Madrid is one of the top gastronomic capitals in Europe, with more and more people going primarily for the food. Classic tapas bars and traditional restaurants are still as popular as ever, with some sticking to the local favourites and others giving a creative twist to their dishes. Get the feel of the city with a tapas crawl in the oldest parts of town below the Plaza Mayor and around Plaza de Santa Ana, then explore the gourmet hubs in and around Ponzano and Ibiza streets. While Madrid is all about spontaneity, you do need to plan ahead and book for popular and fancier places, particularly at weekends. All our recommendations below have been hand-selected and tested by our resident destination expert to help you discover the best restaurants in Madrid. Find out more below, or for more Madrid inspiration, see our guides to the city's best hotels, bars, shops, things to do and things to do for free. Find a restaurant by type: Best all-rounders Best for traditional food Best for cheap eats Best for fine dining Best for walk-ins Best for vegetarians and vegans Best all-rounders Angelita Book ahead at Angelita in Chueca, a gastrobar where the daily-changing menu features the best seasonal produce and more than 50 wines are available by the glass – and also the half glass, so you can try quite a few. Just let the waiters advise you both on what to order and what to drink with it. If you've been disappointed with vegetable dishes in Madrid, a lot of the produce here comes from the owners' farm and is superb quality. After dinner, just slide downstairs to the decadent bar for a classic or creative cocktail – maybe a Chido, a mix of mezcal, cranberry juice and rice vinegar. Bodega de los Secretos You would be very unlikely to stumble upon Bodega de los Secretos by chance, as the restaurant is not only on a quiet side street but is also hidden away in a labyrinth of underground wine cellars that date back to the 17th century. Tables in romantic arched alcoves ensure privacy and there is a great menu of modern Spanish dishes, such as steak from the Pyrenees, rice with prawns and octopus, tuna tataki, and pumpkin ravioli. There are more farflung influences too, such as ceviche with avocado, citrus marinade and mango cream. Murillo Café After walking miles around the Prado, this chic brasserie-style café behind the museum is the perfect place to rest your feet with a coffee – or drop in for breakfast before you start. Snacks include pizzetas with toppings such as ibérico ham or fontina cheese with mushrooms, but you might feel like settling in for a leisurely lunch of tuna tartare with chipotle mayonnaise, goat's cheese, quinoa and lentil salad or a vegetarian burger. If you are really exhausted, order a restorative passionfruit Daquiri to start with. Sunday brunch options include waffles and eggs Benedict. La Casa de Salesas Open all day every day until late, this is a great place to sink into the cool vibe of the Salesas neighbourhood. Kick off with a Bloody Barrio (tequila, tomato juice and a secret spice mix), then go for the grilled avocado with prawns, the oxtail brioche and sliders with Comté. You should also know about the sandwich Salesas, which is a croissant stuffed with chocolate cream and vanilla ice cream. Back to index Best for traditional food Botín According to the Guinness Book of Records, Botín is officially the oldest restaurant in the world. It opened in 1725 and is renowned for its roast suckling pig and lamb, which are cooked over vine shoots in the huge oven that has been there since it opened. Also good are the clams and the baby squid in its own ink. The dining rooms sprawl through the building, from the vaulted cellar to pretty tiled spaces on the upper floors. Unsurprisingly, Botín is very popular with visitors, but eating here is a quintessential Madrid experience so don't let that put you off. Ernest Hemingway fans can ask to sit at his favourite spot. Casa Ciriaco This supremely traditional bar and restaurant, a favourite of politicians, writers, bullfighters and celebrities, has been going for a century and has a rich history – which you can trace by looking at the photographs covering the walls. New owners have barely changed a thing, thank goodness, and Casa Ciriaco has lost nothing of its character. Order the delicious signature dish, gallina a la pepitoria - chicken in almond sauce – and maybe some meatballs. In summer, start with the melon gazpacho. Or just have a draught vermouth or beer in the tiled bar with some croquetas – a good option if you need to recharge your batteries after visiting the Royal Palace. Area: Plaza Mayor Nearest metro: Opera Website: Prices: ££ Reservations: Advisable for restaurant, not required for bar Taberna Los Huevos de Lucio Taberna Los Huevos de Lucio is a traditional tavern run by the younger generation of the family behind the renowned Casa Lucio across the road and is great for either a quick bite at the bar or a proper sit-down meal. Huevos rotos – fried eggs 'broken' over a pile of chips – is the signature dish, as it is in Casa Lucio, and is a must-try in Madrid. Here it's elevated to gourmet heights, with additions such as chistorra sausage or pisto vegetables (like a Spanish ratatouille). The slow-cooked ibérico pork cheeks are fabulous too. Order a few things to share. Taberna La Carmencita La Carmencita, with its tiled walls and zinc bar, opened in 1854 and is one of the oldest restaurants in Madrid – once a favourite of Federico García Lorca and Pablo Neruda. Now in the hands of a dynamic restaurant group with origins in Santander, the menu mixes traditional Madrilenian dishes with specialities from the north of Spain, using a lot of organic produce. Have a vermouth while you look over the menu. The meatballs in amontillado sauce with chips are always a good idea. Area: Chueca Nearest metro: Chueca Website: Price: ££ Reservations: Recommended at weekends. Back to index Best for families Cabreira This tapas bar and restaurant with traditional décor and terrace tables on Plaza Dos de Mayo in the boho Malasaña area is a popular local haunt. Have the patatas a la churri (sautéed potatoes with scrambled egg, onion and garlic), delicate coquina clams, monkfish goujons, fried aubergine with honey and the gambas al ajillo (prawns sizzling in oil with lots of garlic and chilli). Or go for one of the steaks with chips if you're in that sort of mood. The draught beer is excellent here and there is a good range of reasonably-priced wines by the glass or bottle. The friendly waiters speak good English and they open every day with food served all day. Area: Malasaña Nearest metro: Bilbao or Tribunal Website: Prices: £ Reservations: Recommended at weekends Mama Campo On Plaza de Olavide, where there is a playground and a string of bars and restaurants with outdoor tables, Mama Campo is a relaxed, attractive place to eat where they use a lot of organic produce. There are options to suit all ages and tastes – the menu usefully marks dishes for various allergies – including plenty of tasty things to share, burgers (gluten-free available), salads, plant-based choices and great cakes. Area: Chamberí Nearest metro: Iglesia, Quevedo or Bilbao Website: Price: £ Reservations: Not usually needed Villa Verbena On a fine day – of which there are many in Madrid – it is worth venturing across the Manzanares river for a leisurely lunch by the lake in the Casa de Campo park. There's something for everyone on the menu, including tuna and avocado on toast and oxtail cannelloni. The aromas floating from the grill mean you won't be able to resist ordering a plate of sardines, octopus or a steak. The kids will happily tuck into plates of ham croquetas, chicken strips and chips. With plenty of terrace tables and floor-to-ceiling windows inside, you get a good view wherever you sit. Back to index Best for walk ins Taberna La Elisa Taberna La Elisa, decorated with pretty blue and yellow tiles, dates back more than century but is now run by the talented young team behind the highly successful Triciclo restaurant nearby. Here they serve up modern versions of Spanish classics, such as rich oxtail with silky butter beans. Grab a stool or a marble table in the bar or eat in the dining room at the back. The kitchen is open all day and this is a good bet for a late lunch after visiting the Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza or Reina Sofia museums. Area: Barrio de las Letras Nearest metro: Antón Martín Website: Prices: £ Reservations: Not required for bar tables but recommended for dining room at weekends Casa Dani The Mercado de La Paz is one of Madrid's smartest food markets with proper stalls where the well-heeled locals shop. Casa Dani is easy to spot as there is usually a bit of a queue – worth joining as it moves fast. This busy bar (with tables too) is famed for making one of the best tortillas in town. Ordering a slice of the golden, gooey potato omelette is a must, but there is a lot more on offer, such as croquetas, cuttlefish, meatballs and tomato and tuna salad. La Dichosa Hidden away on a quiet street in the quietly cool Conde Duque area, local favourite La Dichosa is a laidback bar and restaurant with striking blue, black and white décor where you share plates of croquettes, grilled octopus, baby broad beans with sobrasada sausage, artisan cheeses and charcuterie. There is a changing range of interesting wines by the glass as well as the bottle and a selection of craft beers too – check out the blackboards to see what's on offer or just ask Eva or David behind the bar, who will be happy to advise you. Area: Conde Duque Nearest metro: Plaza de España or Noviciado Website: Prices: ££ Reservations: Not usually necessary, except for dinner at weekends Back to index Best for cheap eats La Sanabresa Madrid's traditional casas de comida (basic restaurants) are dying out, but this jolly, unpretentious place does a roaring trade every day; waiters charge around and old friends are engaged in animated conversations in the gloriously unreconstructed dining room. Come here for a bargain fixed-price lunch after the Prado or Reina Sofía museums. There is plenty to choose from, with no standing on ceremony, and you may well have to wait, but the queue moves quickly. Have a big bowl of soup, aubergine fritters, a salad, roast lamb, spare ribs, meatballs – whatever you fancy basically. Area: Barrio de las Letras Nearest metro: Antón Martín Address: Calle Amor de Dios 12 Website: Prices: £ Reservations: Walk-ins only El Bierzo El Bierzo is a much-loved, family-run place for people who live and work in and around Chueca. Nothing much has changed in the half-century it's been open – unlike the neighbourhood, which has shifted from scruffy to chichi over the years. Come for the set-price, three-course lunch, which features a choice of Spanish classics, usually including a tasty lentil or bean stew to start with and maybe hake and salad or eggs, morcilla sausage and chips for main. There are enough options for vegetarians to put a meal together. Back to index Best for fine dining La Tasquita de Enfrente It is easy to stroll straight past tiny La Tasquita de Enfrente, which is one of Madrid's best restaurants and an unlikely haven of discreet elegance on a boisterous nightlife street. Chef Juanjo López Bedmar has been at the helm for 25 years and creates different dishes every day, depending on the best produce available, drawing on the more than 300 recipes in his repertoire. It is all about clean flavours and inspired combinations here. You can choose from two tasting menus or à la carte. Book well ahead. Ramon Freixa Tradición Ramon Freixa, who had two Michelin stars at his previous Madrid restaurant, has gone back to his roots in 2025 with Tradición, where the emphasis is on the produce. While the menu features traditional Spanish dishes, everything has the exquisite, sensual touch you would expect from one of Spain's most renowned chefs. Share the turbot with pilpil sauce or the lobster with fried eggs and potatoes and you will have a big smile on your faces. The spectacular space screams special occasion – definitely one to dress up for. It's open all day from 1pm, so early dinners are no problem. Corral de la Morería With the renowned chef David García at the helm, the restaurant at this legendary flamenco venue has been awarded a Michelin star. An evening here, in the oldest and most characterful part of Madrid, is really special as it combines enjoying creative cuisine with seeing performances by the top flamenco artists in Spain. For the full Michelin experience, book one of the four tables in the gastronomic dining space. After dinner, you move to a reserved table close to the action when the show starts. Most people eat in the less formal setting of Tablao, the area around the stage. Several fixed-price menus are available, including vegan and gluten free. Back to index Best for vegetarians and vegans El Invernadero Leading chef Rodrigo de la Calle has won a Michelin star at this restaurant where the focus is on creative, plant-based cuisine but meat, fish and dairy also feature on the menu (there are four multi-course, fixed-price options). If you are vegan or have a gluten or other allergy, there is no problem here, but bear in mind that the set menu you choose must be served to everyone on the table. Not cheap, but the food is superb and you will have a truly memorable experience. Zíngara Zíngara is bohemian, fashionable and romantic – and also happens to be vegetarian (with vegan and gluten-free dishes flagged on the menu). Start with one of the legendary cocktails then try the seaweed fritters with almond alioli, the mushroom papillote with Indian spices or the sweet potato noodles with kimchi. Open for dinner only, except at weekends when the decadence begins at 1pm. Low lighting, sumptuous decor and great music create a clubby vibe. Area: Salesas Nearest metro: Chueca or Colón Website: Price: ££ Reservations: Recommended How we choose Every restaurant in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, who has visited to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets, from neighbourhood favourites to Michelin-starred restaurants – to best suit every type of traveller's taste – and consider the food, service, best tables, atmosphere and price in our recommendations. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest opening and provide up to date recommendations. Annie Bennett has been living in Madrid on and off for more than 30 years. She never gets tired of exploring the oldest parts of the Spanish capital and discovering new tapas bars.
The Courier
7 hours ago
- The Courier
Perthshire Planning Ahead: Perth Airbnb 'superhost' ambitions and Loch Tay holiday park expansion
A Perth Airbnb host is seeking retrospective permission to turn two flats in the Craigie area into short-term let accommodation. Owner Bartek Szmajdzinski says problem tenants had left both of the one-bedroom properties at 37C and 37D Friar Street in an uninhabitable condition when he bought them. He has spent around £40,000 apiece on renovations with the specific intention of turning them into short-term let accommodation for workers, tourists and insurance companies. In a supporting statement submitted with the planning applications, Mr Szmajdzinski writes: 'We only buy properties that are empty and in very bad condition that no one wants and then we give them a new life.' Mr Szmajdzinski says he lives just minutes away from the Perth flats and has been a 'super host' on Airbnb for three years, receiving hundreds of great reviews. And he adds that his goal is to build an upmarket hotel in Perth in the near future. 'We want to make Perth city great again, boosting the economy by offering high standard properties,' he says. But neighbours are urging Perth and Kinross Council to reject the applications. One objector writes: 'There is a sense of community and safety in knowing your neighbours. Change of use would impact the Craigie area and erode this sense of community.' Another states: 'These flats were never intended to be short-term lets and are in a residential area where people need an adequate amount of sleep and the peace and quiet to raise their families.' Planners are being asked to support a new snack van for Loch Leven at Kinross. The Pinkfoot food truck would cater for visitors while plans to upgrade the former Boathouse restaurant are progressed. It would be sited in the small square on Pier Road between the public toilet block to the west of the Boathouse and the heritage trail car park. The applicant, First Sight Estates, says: 'The 'Pinkfoot' pop-up promises high quality hot and cold dishes, freshly brewed coffee and a range of refreshments, all prepared with locally sourced produce.' In documents submitted with the planning application, they add: 'This will provide a much-needed service at the west shore of Loch Leven where it is recognised that a food and drink outlet is badly missed, required, and perhaps could be argued as being necessary, in a location that historically has offered such a facility.' One of Perth's most prominent churches needs to replace a leaky roof. The Kirk Session for St Leonard's in the Fields Church, overlooking the South Inch, is asking for planning permission for the works. The proposal is for a small area of 1930s zinc roof hidden to the north side of the 1885 building. Church leaders say it has given them many years of problems due to its poor design and installation. 'This has resulted in continuing water ingress and timber rot within the structure,' they say. The proposal is to replace the roof covering with a more practical and cost-effective single-ply membrane. A Loch Tay holiday park is planning a major expansion to meet demand for stay-at-home holidaymakers. Lochtay Highland Lodges bosses say so-called staycations are more popular than ever since the Covid pandemic. They want to add more than 80 new accommodation units to the park near Killin. The plans include 62 lodges, six glamping pods, four cabins and eight stilted accommodation units, plus a rangers' classroom and a covered learning space. The existing stables could also be converted into additional holiday accommodation. And improvements are planned for the reception building, pier, parking arrangements and footpaths. The project has attracted a number of objections. The last date for public comments is August 29. A Pitlochry community garden group is looking to erect a polytunnel so it can extend its range of crops – and its growing season. Pitlochry Garden Share is seeking planning permission for its Moulin Community Garden. The volunteer group has been growing chemical-free produce at the Manse Road site since 2023. It shares surplus produce with the local food bank and community larder. Any other surplus vegetables and seedlings are made available to the rest of the community at the Pitlochry Market from April until October. Craigie short-term let Loch Leven snack van Perth church roof Loch Tay lodges Pitlochry polytunnel
