This California wine region's coolest tasting room? The visitor center

San Francisco Chronicle​

16-06-2025

There are more than 60 wine tasting rooms in the budding Lodi wine region, yet the best stopover is the last place you'd expect: the visitor center.
Here, it's not about the decor (minimalist), the vibe (amiable) or even the inexpensive tasting fee (just $12). The main draw is the incredible wine selection: over 200 bottles from more than 70 local producers, most of which don't have their own tasting rooms.
Located 35 miles south of Sacramento and long overshadowed by glitzy Bay Area destinations like Napa and Sonoma, Lodi (San Joaquin County) is a quiet farm town with no Michelin-starred restaurants or fancy resorts. The longtime home of the Robert Mondavi Winery-founded Woodbridge, it's historically known as a commodity region; the majority of Lodi's grapes are sold in bulk to California's largest wine companies and often placed on the bottom shelf.
But this affordable region is slowly gaining recognition as one that's more diverse and premium than its reputation suggests. The 25-year-old Lodi Wine Visitor Center (2545 W. Turner Road), which is also the only true wine shop in the city, is leading the revival.
In the ivy-covered, Tuscan-style building, you can find plenty of Lodi's signature Zinfandel, as well as natural wines, the Greek white wine Assyrtiko and an off-dry Verdelho made by a two-time Lodi mayor. All bottles are under $70.
'You can really come in and visually do a 360 in the tasting room and see how far (Lodi has) come and how many different types of wines there are,' said Stephanie Bolton, the research and education director of the grower-funded Lodi Winegrape Commission, which operates the center. 'Once you walk in the door, that becomes very clear.'
Local tourism boards typically operate regional visitor centers, but Lodi is the only California wine region that has a visitor center dedicated exclusively to promoting local wines. It may seem surprising this isn't found in a region overflowing with wineries like Napa Valley, but Bolton believes that would create an overly competitive environment. 'You have to set a lot of fear and ego aside to do something like (this),' she said.
Growers, on the other hand, all benefit from the collective effort. In Lodi, there's roughly 80,000 acres of grapes, but only about 85 wineries, and many of those winery owners were growers first, Bolton said. Increased demand for Lodi wines should translate to higher demand, and prices, for the grapes. 'There's a camaraderie and deep-rooted (feeling of), 'We're all in this together,'' said Paul Marsh, the visitor center's manager and wine club director.
Founded in 2000, the Lodi Wine Visitor Center is located right off a main thoroughfare next to what many locals refer to as Lodi's 'one nice hotel,' Wine & Roses. The hotel was recently renamed Appellation Lodi – Wine & Roses Resort and Spa as part of a major renovation by celebrity wine country chef and hotelier Charlie Palmer. His new cafe, Maison Lodi, adjoins the visitor center.
To establish the tasting room, which welcomes over 20,000 people a year, the Lodi Winegrape Commission had to create a 501(c)(3) educational foundation to secure an Alcohol Beverage Control license to serve and sell wine, recalled executive director Stuart Spencer. When it first opened in the same building as the commission's offices, the wine region had just seven tasting rooms, so the vision was to exclusively highlight wines made from Lodi grapes, including wines produced outside the region. The center still takes this seriously: Jeff Perlegos, co-owner of Perlegos Family Wine Co., said the commission rejected one of his wines because it was only partially made from Lodi grapes.
Locals and industry members make up about 40% of the center's annual visitation, said Marsh, a former restaurateur and sommelier with red-rimmed glasses. But for tourists, it's designed to be the first stop on their visit, a sort of concierge that can help them curate an itinerary fit to their specific tastes. 'We have to be the stewards for Lodi right now, especially during this weird, wonky time in the wine business,' said Marsh. 'It's our job to make sure we get that person to that place they didn't know they needed to find.'
Part of that stewardship is hiring qualified tasting hosts. '(Marsh) has had success recruiting sommeliers, which provides a very professional style tasting. Sometimes, you go into a tasting room and you just have people pouring the wine and they barely know their own product,' said Jeffrey Farthing, the longtime winemaker for Lodi's Michael David Winery. He sells wines from his small side project, Purple Corduroy, at the center.
'They have had a lot to do with the success of my teeny tiny brand,' he continued, estimating that the wine center sells over 60 cases of wine for him a year, almost as much as his distributor. 'They know me, they've taken the time to get to know me, learn the story of my wines, and they present that to the customer.'
Lodi native and second-generation farmer Perlegos said his brand also 'benefits' from the staff's expertise as he works with some unconventional grapes like the Greek Assyrtiko and Sicily's Nero d'Avola. 'Our varieties are very different,' he said. 'They're very knowledgeable and they do a lot of work with the folks that come in there to educate them and show off what's different in Lodi versus other regions.'
Wineries like Perlegos are slowly helping debunk the stereotype that Lodi is synonymous with big, high-alcohol red wines — mainly Zinfandel. 'Old Vine Zin is definitely the heartbeat of the area, but so many people are searching out Lodi fruit, not only because of the accessibility of it, but the fact you can do something Italian, Spanish or South African,' said Marsh, pointing to Pinotage, the stigmatized red grape that's most famous in South Africa, as an example. 'Some people are doing incredible Pinotage (in Lodi).'
A tasting of four wines costs $12, and Marsh switches up the eight-wine lineup every week.
'The part that gets me is seeing that eyebrow raise. Someone says, 'I only drink Pinot Noir,' and I'll ask, 'When's the last time you had Carignan? Or Cinsault?' And a light bulb pops in their head,' he said. 'Everyone loves that old pair of Levi's that fits perfectly, but every once in a while, you've got to try a new pair of pants on and see if that changes some things.'
Those eyebrow raisers have kept longtime local Barbara Rankin coming to the center about every month for the past decade.
'Variety is what I'm after. I want to find a gem,' she said. 'It's the only place to find cool, otherwise unknown wines.'
Lodi Wine Visitor Center. 2545 W Turner Road, Lodi.