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Undercover Resort 2026 Menswear Collection

Undercover Resort 2026 Menswear Collection

Vogue7 hours ago

Jun Takahashi's Undercover is one of fashion's most evocatively articulate labels when it comes to wreathing its collections with atmosphere and storytelling. The flipside of that upside is that when a collection is delivered in purely photographic format, as here, the absence of atmosphere and storytelling feels magnified.
Still, with a little imagination, you could project a path for Undercover's breezily attired pre-spring protagonists. They trod it in slingback mules, quite Birkenstock Tokio but more refined of sole. Like the painted straw wide-brimmed hats that topped each look, these mules were marked with cursive scrawl that read 'i am chaos.' Yet that graphic seemed misdirectionally performative decoration in a collection that was highly organized in its exploration of multiple menswear standards.
Bowling shirts, tailored collar parka jackets, camp collar shirts in washed cotton with interestingly textured patches, henleys, oversized linen suiting, short-shirt sets studded with utility pockets, cardigans, frayed knit sweater vests, a knit-backed leather jacket and some stadium jackets were amongst the repertoire. The collection displayed Undercover's new wave resonance, but at an extremely gentle frequency: punk but politely so.

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Stephanie Danan had a clear directive for Co's resort collection. 'She's a no apologies kind of woman,' she said. 'No-nonsense. Has her shit together.' The attitude was evident in clothes that are in-your-face and sometimes 'a little bit off.' A pencil skirt with a contrasting layer of white pleated fabric; sweaters with extra-wide shoulders that cinch at the waist, leathers that are scratched, cracked, and worn-in. The tailoring was the collection's strongest point. A double-breasted suit in wool melange with strong-but-slightly droopy shoulders and a nipped-in waist was severe, which contrasted with the model's criss-cross cone heel sandals and undone bob in a way that made the silhouette real, while an eggplant double-breasted tailored jacket had an unexpected ribbed knit detail on the collar and cuffs. But even when the suiting was a pure version of itself, the styling evoked a more laissez-faire vision: see the monochromatic gray single-breasted suit worn with a matching button down shirt, worn untucked, and topped off with an also-matching trench coat. It was tough and yet it was also… pajamas. Devious! Duchess satin pieces, like a bomber jacket, or a trench-inspired jacket and matching skirt, were similarly subversive; from so feminine a fabric, Danan managed to extract an energy of untouchability. 'As I get older and I start to think of not just the things that I wear, but who I am as a woman, one thing that seems to become more and more evident is a sense of confidence and not needing any validation,' she said. 'There's this idea that when a woman doesn't need validation, she's a little bit feared, and there's a lot of power in that.'

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