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The 18th-century Lake Como villa where Taylor Swift came to relax

The 18th-century Lake Como villa where Taylor Swift came to relax

Times2 days ago
However lovely my hosts, however beautiful their home, I struggle with being a guest at someone else's house. Ungrateful, I know. But I like to be the boss of my own time. I want to get up and go to bed when I want; I like to potter around and find the things I need. I don't love having to ask people when I want something. It's a weird mix of being utterly selfish and ridiculously polite. I don't want to put anyone out.
I sometimes suffer from the same dilemma in hotels. I know the staff are paid and happy to help me when I want something, but I find it more relaxing, and often quicker, to do it myself. However, hotels don't appreciate it if you mooch around their kitchens, humming a tune and boiling your own egg for breakfast.
The obvious answer is to stay in holiday villas, which is what I tend to do. But then there's the exhausting stop-off to buy food and drink to stock the kitchen, try and understand how the air-conditioning works, and spending hours fishing leaves and bugs out of the pool because floating things unsettle my OCD. (I bet you're glad you are not going on holiday with me this summer.)
I have, however, found the perfect solution. Admittedly, it's neither inexpensive nor understated, but it really ticks every box. It's a very grand and ornate villa, nestled on the shores of Lake Como, that is serviced by the exquisite and award-winning team from the nearby Grand Hotel Tremezzo. Here you get the best of both worlds: privacy, freedom, a kitchen you can wander into, and a discreet and charming staff on hand whenever you want them. You can pretend you're totally independent while not needing to lift a finger throughout your stay. No wonder the villa was chosen by Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce for a well-earned respite during the singer's Eras tour last year.
The mostly 18th-century, neoclassical Villa Sola Cabiati on Como's Riviera della Tremezzina began its life, as did many of the area's grand houses, as the summer residence of an aristocratic Milanese family. Despite it being only their holiday home, the Dukes of Serbelloni didn't skimp on the design. Outside, perfectly clipped parterre gardens swoop towards the lake. Inside the villa — with its large staircase, fresco ceilings, marble balconies and two wings housing six suites — is an extraordinary collection of art and furniture: tapestries, Murano-glass chandeliers, porcelain, murals by a pupil of Tiepolo and a bed once slept in by Napoleon and Joséphine.
Every room feels like a film set and the breakfast served in the dining room each morning looks as if it was directed by Fellini. At the back of the villa are pretty private gardens as well as a large swimming pool; at the front you can skip down the stone steps and dine or sunbathe in the arabesque gardens and admire the views of the surrounding lake while tucked away safely behind the pleasingly imposing wrought-iron gates.
There's a strong possibility you won't want to leave the villa. After all, it is fully catered. And should you, like me, wish to pretend you're happy to cook your own dinner or mix your own cocktail on occasion, they will teach you how to do so. A mixologist showed me how to make a unique espresso martini using Borghetti and Frangelico liqueurs along with Sirop de Monin (a popcorn flavour). Meanwhile, the chef and his team helped me make a delicious but simple buckwheat pasta dish, a classic from Lombardy called pizzoccheri.
• Read more luxury reviews, advice and insights from our experts
Across the road from the entrance, the villa has a private jetty — which like everything else here is theatrical — from which a classic Riva boat can whizz you to Como's other jewels. The Grand Hotel Tremezzo, with its famous white and orange striped 'beach' club, has a spa in what was once a grand library and a restaurant serving, should you desire, a risotto topped with edible gold leaf. In the other direction is my personal favourite, Passalacqua, another 18th-century villa-turned-hotel that is like a set from a Wes Anderson movie. If you arrive by boat, you are whisked up a winding pathway through the hotel's formal gardens in a bright orange Fiat Jolly with wicker seats and open canvas roof. The garden terraces are a riot of colour and pattern that manages to stay the right side of sane and somehow not distract from the jaw-dropping views over Lake Como. On a summer's day I honestly don't think there is a more perfect or romantic spot for a long lunch or sunset cocktail.
On the boat back to Villa Sola Cabiati, you pass by George Clooney's home in Laglio (the locals all love him as he lets them use his private beach) as well as the imposing Villa la Cassinella. This opulent home, with its acres of waterside gardens, is reputedly owned by Richard Branson, can be accessed only by boat or helicopter, and costs just under £168,000 a week to rent in June. But the most recognisable of them all is Villa del Balbianello. It was here that Daniel Craig's James Bond was filmed recovering from his injuries in 2006's Casino Royale. You can rent this one for weddings and events, but can't stay here.
Despite its lavish splendour, there is something comforting, even homely, about returning to the villa after a day spent exploring Como. The staff are so welcoming, the bedroom suites are large yet cosy, decorated in handpainted wallpapers and littered with plump sofas. All six suites have windows looking out onto the lake. There isn't a dud room. You sink into the soft wood-fibre sheets, stuffed from the evening's dinner and, rather alarmingly, begin to dream about breakfast — which you can make yourself. Or not. Sometimes it's good to be the guest.
Details Villa Sola Cabiati costs from €10,000 per night, including all food, the services of a butler and housekeepers, chambermaid and private chef, and two return transfers to Grand Hotel Tremezzo and its facilities, grandhoteltremezzo.com
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The 21 best things to do in Northern Ireland
The 21 best things to do in Northern Ireland

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The 21 best things to do in Northern Ireland

It doesn't matter how you like to spend your time – birdwatching on a rugged island, pottering around a food market or getting active on a coastal hike – chances are, there's something that'll fit the bill in Northern Ireland. There are art galleries and unique museums, points of historical interest and a gorgeous coastline peppered with interesting landmarks. And alongside the more visited sights, there are the quirkier activities, like food tours and peaceful lake districts, as well as the attractions that don't seem to be going anywhere anytime soon – the Game of Thrones filming locations. Here are some activities to add to your list. All our recommendations below have been hand selected and tested by our resident destination expert to help you discover the best things to do in Northern Ireland. Find out more below, or for further inspiration, explore our guides to Northern Ireland's best hotels, restaurants, nightlife and beaches. Find things to do by type: Best for families Best for being outdoors Best free things to do Best for culture Best for food and drink experiences Best for families Titanic Belfast Step back in time Set on the very spot where the famous ship was built, this museum is a flashy, high-tech ode to all things Titanic. You walk through the journey of the liner, from construction to the sinking; the stories told both through interactive exhibits and personal stories. And it's all suitable for kids. Insider tip: If you're up anyway, book the early riser ticket, which offers a discount for the first time slot of the day. This includes entry to the restored SS Nomadic, the tender to the Titanic and the last remaining ship from the White Star Line. The MAC Let their imaginations run wild At The MAC (Metropolitan Arts Centre), you'll find a rotating series of exhibitions in the three gallery spaces, but there is also a whole heap of theatre performances, workshops and a schedule of specialised family activities, like baby time, drawing and crafts. These activities are mainly in the school holidays, but outside of those periods there are creativity stations and activity sheets for kids. Insider tip: While some of the specialised workshops are free and available on a drop-in basis, others have a fee and should be booked in advance – check the schedule ahead of time. Giant's Causeway Uncover mythical landscapes and wild climbs Depending on whose story you believe, the hexagonal basalt columns on the County Antrim shore were created by volcanic activity or an angry giant. But either way, these rock formations – perfectly symmetrical shapes stacked up against the wild coastline – are almost beggar belief. 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Pictured: Prince of Wales and Charlotte watch Lionesses at Euros final
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Pictured: Prince of Wales and Charlotte watch Lionesses at Euros final

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Why cruising is the most accessible way to travel overseas
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Why cruising is the most accessible way to travel overseas

It was day one of our week-long cruise to the Norwegian fjords, and barely 90 minutes since we'd handed over our passports at P&O Britannia's accessible check-in quarters, we were already in our cabin. 'How fast was that?' I enthused to my partner, Paul, a wheelchair user since a spinal injury at the age of 21. He nodded enthusiastically, still thrilled that he'd been able to bring a second back-up chair, and by the generously sized wet room which had greeted us. We cracked open our bottle of champagne – part of the 'one bottle of wine per person' we were permitted to bring with us – and settled into our accessible cabin on deck 11, preparing to spend the following day at sea cruising along the inky blue waters off North West England. We used this day to explore the ship, finding that it was – on the whole – wonderfully easy to get around, with plenty of other wheelchair- and scooter-users amongst our fellow passengers, and specific tables at the buffet and lifts between floors reserved for wheelchair users (though not everyone observed these rules). Satisfied that our on-board experience would be a pleasant and easily navigable one, our attentions – and anxieties – turned to whether the same would be true of the various shore excursions ahead. We needn't have worried. P&O had clearly given much forethought to the ports which would prove most accessible for disabled passengers, with each destination offering step-free and (mostly) flat roadways and paths, allowing us to explore each without incident. Amongst our stops were the cities of Stavanger and Kristiansand – both delightful and very scenic – but it was the small farming village of Skjolden which really stood out. Gliding up the calm, crystal clear Sognefjord, we passed tumbling waterfalls and hillsides dotted with pretty wooden homes – then, as we neared the shore, we heard the bells of mountain sheep ringing as farmers toiled their lands nearby. Having disembarked, we followed a beautiful accessible tarmac road which wound around the feet of rugged, snow-capped mountains – a stunning place, and everything we'd hoped a cruise around Norway would offer. We stopped for a picnic at a little bench by the water, taking it all in as other cruisers – on foot, in wheelchairs or on scooters – passed by, deciding which of the various pathways ahead took their fancy as mountain goats and highland cows watched from the nearby fields with interest. That evening, we returned to the ship and watched the sun set from the rear deck, the sky and still waters streaked with the same deep hues of burnt orange and bruised purple. But it wasn't all plain sailing. As we'd been supping our champagne on that very first day, a wheelchair disaster of sorts had been unfolding below us on deck seven. Fellow passenger Alan Rogers, who has multiple sclerosis, had gone for some fresh air on the rear deck in his P&O-approved chair. While rolling himself down a too-steep ramp, he had come crashing out of it and was left lying on deck, helpless and in pain. Paul had tried to access the rear deck via this same ramp some days later, and also found it much too steep, saying that he'd needed two strong men 'to lift up the wheelchair and get me out'. When asked, P&O told us that their safety officer has no issues with the ramp, having recently been aboard the Britannia and found it all in order and within their specifications. 'But why don't they consult the wheelchair users who need these facilities?' says Alan. 'And if the ramps can't be fixed, what about a buzzer to call staff to hold open doors and to hold the wheelchair as you go through them?' P&O's newer ships, he told us, are better on this score. 'My first trip with my wife, Rachel, was on the Iona,' he says of another of the line's ships, launched in 2020. 'It was brilliant, with a decent-sized wetroom and electric buttons to press for the doors and balcony. I don't fly any more, and though cruises are definitely more accessible than a flight, I'm still limited in what I can go on.' He hopes that by speaking out, P&O might be prompted to adjust the ramps on the older ships to ensure the safety of other passengers. Nevertheless, overall Paul and I were impressed. Thanks to the all-encompassing nature of a cruise, this was the first holiday I had successfully organised myself, and the price – £899 per person, including all meals – had been manageable on my part-time salary. This approach also meant that we had been able to entirely avoid flying (which, with Paul's wheelchair and my own mental illness, which makes me claustrophobic in airports, is often an ordeal) or renting a car, but still get right into the heart of the rugged fjords and snowy mountains in all their beauty. Cruising is still a welcome lifeline for many wheelchair users who want to travel – but with just a few small tweaks, it could be even better.

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