Uncorking Uruguay: Where Winemaking Roots Meet Modern Exploration

Forbes

3 days ago

Uruguay wines are ready to shine on the world stage. It's time the world take notice. getty
Gabriel Pisano was born near a vineyard in the heart of Uruguay's Progresso region. Upon completing his oenology studies in his homeland, Pisano went abroad to learn first-hand the world of wine. After making wine on five continents under the tutelage of some stellar wine makers, he returned home with a treasure trove of knowledge and experience.
Today, Pisano works alongside his three uncles in the family's one-hundred-year-old winery, Pisano Wines, as well as his own experimental winery, Viña Progresso, launched in 2019.
Gabriel Pisano is one of many Uruguayan winemakers who perfectly embodies the country's wine industry. He is rooted in the one-hundred-year tradition of Uruguay wine, while reaching to embrace the experimentation of his generation.
Uruguay's wine industry is experiencing a dynamic transformation driven by a blend of deeply rooted traditions and a fervent spirit of experimentation, positioning this small country to become a significant force on the global wine scene.
Grape vines have long existed in Uruguay. However, its commercial wine history dates back to its independence in the mid 19th century with the arrival of Italians and Spanish, combining their European winemaking know how with their pioneer spirit that lives on today.
As South America's second smallest country, Uruguayan wine is often overlooked for Argentina and Chile. This is a mistake. Home to ninety-nine classified soil types, a stable climate, 410 miles of Atlantic coastline, and 180 wineries, Uruguay is ideal for winemaking.
Brought to Uruguay by Basque immigrants in the late 19th century, there is no doubt Tannat is the signature grape of the country. 'Tannat is Uruguay, Uruguay is Tannat,' says Eduardo Pisano, fourth generation winemaker of Pisano.
Tannat is often known for its bold expressions. Lovers of bold reds will not be disappointed by Uruguay Tannat; however, today those looking for its softer side will also be pleased.
Familia Deicas winery embraces Tannat's many expressions, showcasing its depth through their Perludio and Extreme Vineyards by Santiago Deicas labels, and its softer side Don Pascual Coastal wines.
'For many years, Tannat was a difficult wine. It extracted too much from oak. Now we are working with its soft side. With Coastal, we no longer use oak. We still get the color, but with gentle silky tannins. More of Uruguay is now using this approach,' says Nino Deicas, Familia Deicas brand manager. Albariño
Along with Tannat, Albariño was introduced in Uruguay by Spanish immigrants around the same time. However, it was not until Bodega Bouza planted it outside the capital of Montevideo in 2001, producing the first commercial bottling in 2004, that this Galician grape became the white wine of Uruguay.
'My grandfather is from Galicia,' says Juan Pable Bouza. 'We wanted to bring something from home and we thought Albariño would be great due to the similar climate. We began with one hectare. It did great so we've expanded it.'
Uruguay's Atlantic Ocean coastline gives the region climatic similarities to Spain's Rias Baixas region, home of Albariño, delivering it's signature freshness and high acidity in the glass.
Pisano winery was reluctant to expand their white grape plantings, but their importer kept asking for Albariño. 'The results are good. We should have planted it two or three years sooner,' says Daniel Pisano. 'As a country we are now focused on Albariño and we are doing quite well.'
Paula Pivel, director of Alto de la Bellena winery agrees. 'Albariño has become the white flagship of Uruguay.'
'There's a new generation in Uruguay, I'm one of the older ones, but I'm still in it. Sons and daughters are giving a new energy to the wineries,' says Juan Andrés Marichal, winemaker of Bodega Marichal. 'The young ones want to discover new things. Nowadays there is opportunity to experiment.' getty Embracing Experimentation
Gabriel Pisano showcases his interpretation of Tannat and Albariño through his own label, Viña Progresso, where he plays with vinification and fermentation to achieve a fresh expression for the modern palate. 'I am flirting with natural wines. Not all my wines fit there, but I do want them to be as natural as possible, without defects.'
He is not the only Uruguayan winemaker testing natural wines. Familia Deicas has introduced their Bizarra Extravaganza Vino Natural wines using amphoras and skin-contact to produce orange style wines.
Along with traditional wines, Agostina de Lucca, export manager of De Lucca winery, explains why they have created an experimental label called Ingenia, showcasing native flora and fauna on the labels.
'Our goal is to produce wines that identify this place. Working naturally gives us more identity. We care about the whole environment, the entire ecosystem. We want a wine you can blind taste and say 'That's Uruguay. That is De Lucca.''
Pablo Fallabrino's grandfather immigrated to Uruguay from Piedmont, Italy in 1920. After studying wine making under his father and grandfather, Pablo began his single vineyard estate in 1997. Fallabrino's goal is to produce wines he wants to drink—natural, without sulfites, lower alcohol, easy drinking. 'We like the wine to sell, not be adored,' he says.
He made his first natural wine in 2015, and produced the first natural, no sulfite Tannat in the country. 'I like the idea of producing a wine without sulfur. It's a gamble, a financial risk.' However, he is 'not obsessed' with natural wines. 'The idea is to drink wine without faults or bacteria.'
Fallabrino enjoys experimenting with grapes from his grandfather's Piedmont homeland, such as a Nebbiolo pét-nat or Barbera rosé. But his experimentation does not end there. How about a Ripasso-style Tannat dessert wine or Gewurztraminer orange wine?
Juan Andrés and his brother Alejandro Marichal grew up in their family vineyard. Today, they continue the legacy their great grandparents brought when they immigrated from the Canary Islands and Italy with Bodega Marichal. Like so many, they embrace Uruguay's tradition of Tannat as well as Albariño excitement through the Marichal label, while also experimenting through the Creatura label.
Marichal wines are elegant, poised, fresh, and beautifully made. Creatura focuses on non-traditional European varieties, such as Spain's Mencia and Italy's Ancellotta, which Juan Andrés believes will thrive in the Uruguay climate.
He also produces white, rosé, and red vermouth, called Vermut Flores. Built on Tannat, these fresh and modern vermouths marry Uruguayan botanicals with the country's flagship grape for a refreshing and delicious dangerous tipple.
'There's a new generation in Uruguay, I'm one of the older ones, but I'm still in it. Sons and daughters are giving a new energy to the wineries,' says Juan Andrés Marichal. 'The young ones want to discover new things. Nowadays there is opportunity to experiment.' Ready To Shine
To date, the mention of Uruguay wine results in a look of confusion on many faces. Yet, the wine industry perpetually seeks the new shiny thing. With over a hundred year history it is hard to say Uruguay is new, yet perhaps its obscurity has been a benefit, allowing the industry time to find their way, mistakes and all, without much attention.
Today, Uruguay wines are ready to shine on the world stage. It's time the world take notice.
'Uruguayan wines are one foot in the new world and one foot in the old. It's not because we are trying for this. It's our place, bold on the nose, light on the palate,' says Gabriel Pisano. 'We are not making fresh wines now because it's what the world wants. This has always been our style. The world is just catching up to Uruguay.' More From Forbes Forbes Argentina Has A Delicious Wine Secret, And It's Not Malbec By Michelle Williams Forbes How Tariff Uncertainty Impacts The Wine Industry By Michelle Williams Forbes Italian Wineries Remain Optimistic In Today's Uncertain Wine Market By Michelle Williams