I said Italy was overcrowded and overpriced. Then I went back
Hotel Hassler is one of the city's last independent luxury hotels, and right on top of the Spanish Steps. I knew I had a haven after a big day's sightseeing. I could nip out in the early mornings and evenings after tour groups had departed.
I could tap into the concierge's local knowledge. Places to walk without having to battle the tour groups? Yes. Recommendations for proper restaurants where Romans eat? Tick.
When I couldn't be bothered to eat out, my terrace had views of Rome and the Vatican for a panoramic picnic, with quality prosciutto and prosecco from a nearby supermarket. Upgrading your hotel and price-cutting elsewhere is sometimes wise.
Informed choices are a must in any destination that has issues of tourist overcrowding and creaking infrastructure. With a week to spare behind the wheel of a hire car after Rome, that meant avoiding Tuscany and Venice and opting for Umbria.
Umbria has its problems, too. Its roads and motorways are cracked, patched and uneven. I wasn't breezing along a country road in a red sports car beside a movie starlet. I was lurching along highways surrounded by trucks, terrified my rear wheel was going to come off in an unanticipated pothole.
And Umbria, while less visited than some parts of Italy, is hardly crowd or rip-off free. Orvieto's old town barely hangs on to its old-time shops and eateries. I got a terrible and expensive meal in Assisi. I knew it was going to be terrible, but I needed the energy boost – and somewhere to sit.
The knowing helps dampen some of the annoyance, but good planning makes for a better visit. In Assisi, the church associated with St Francis is glorious, and all I needed to see in a town subsumed by tourists.
There are places to linger in Umbria. I spent an afternoon in Todi and saw only a handful of other tourists, even though this medieval town has a hilltop location and fine architecture.
Gubbio was quiet, too, and as dense in old buildings as anywhere in Tuscany. Like Todi, it still had proper family restaurants for a fine meal, served by agreeable waiters not yet schooled in indifference.
I got over the horizon from the obvious in Umbria and my experience was better for it. Visitors should carry some blame if all they have is a bad time. That doesn't let Italy off the hook, however.
Tourism isn't about people making random, spontaneous decisions. It's a highly regulated industry in which tourist choices are controlled, directed and managed. All levels of government policies on everything from budget airlines to Airbnb and whether to facilitate Netflix filming influence where people go and what they do.
What's more, towns generally become over-touristed because they have nothing else to rely on: alternative businesses and opportunities have gone. That's why Perugia gets a big thumbs up. Its old town is superb and culture-dense, but this university and manufacturing town hasn't sold its soul to tourism.
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The Italian government is aware of the problem. In interviews, Italian tourism minister Daniela Santanche has said Italy needs to focus on better quality, sustainability and organisation, and encourage tourists to come year-round and visit Italy's smaller towns.
Wise words. But while you're waiting for Italian governments to solve problems, you might use those guidelines yourself the next time you plan a trip to Italy. It will give you a much better experience.
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Sydney Morning Herald
3 hours ago
- Sydney Morning Herald
Twenty must-visit bars in the world's top cities (plus five in Australia)
The Thai capital is all about rooftop bars, and not just any rooftop – we're talking sky-high rooftops, hundreds of metres above the honk and glitter of the Bangkok streets. One of the best of these is Sky, an open-air bar on the 63rd floor of the Lebua building, a place jam-packed with wow factor from the moment you step out of the lift. The views up here are incredible, of course, perched as you are 250 metres above the ground. At night, Bangkok's bright lights just seem to stretch on forever. The cocktails are tasty too, if a little on the pricey side for BKK. 1055 Si Lom Road, Si Lom; see Dublin, Ireland Bar 1661 The chances of stumbling upon Bar 1661 accidentally are slim to none, but this Dublin bar stands head-and-shoulders above the rest. Though the impeccable cocktails are made with quirky components such as miso butter, dehydrated chillies and bone marrow, there's zero pretentiousness – just well-worn bar stools, dark walls and chatty bartenders. The star ingredient is poitin, the once-banned Irish moonshine, so try that in their signature Belfast Coffee, where it's shaken with cold brew, cream and nutmeg. 1 – 5 Green Street, Dublin; see Buenos Aires, Argentina Bar Britanico 'Bar' and 'cafe' are used interchangeably in Buenos Aires, which has hundreds of local corner venues for soft and strong drinks. Many have Italian and Spanish connections, but Britanico is one of the few surviving joints with ties to the British presence. These days it's open to allcomers, and is a place to come by day for good cortado or a bottle of beer and, in the evening, enjoy wine or vermouth and perhaps a meal. A few years ago, the bar was threatened with closure, but locals protested, and it was mercifully saved. With chequerboard tiles, windows on the street and calm lighting inside, it's a classic BA experience. Brasil 399, San Telmo, Buenos Aires; see Copenhagen, Denmark La Banchina The Danish capital isn't short of cool cocktail and craft beer joints, but nothing feels quite as quintessentially Copenhagen as laid-back La Banchina, a wine bar/cafe/restaurant on the Refshaleoen waterfront. Behind a small, blue-painted shack lies a large al fresco area where the sunny wooden dock is particularly popular (handy for taking dips in the harbour), though you may prefer a quieter, shadier spot amid the raised beds. To drink? An organic, flower-topped spritz or bottle of natural wine, ideally enjoyed as the sun sets across the water. Refshalevej 141, 1432 Copenhagen; 00 45 31 26 65 61; see Los Angeles, US The Spare Room, Hollywood Roosevelt Generally, hotel bars are rather sad places. But not so in Los Angeles. Here, many of the very best bars can be found in the city's upmarket hotels, from the Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel to the Tower Bar at the Sunset Tower. But the best of them all has to be The Spare Room at the Hollywood Roosevelt. Hidden away within the storied hotel, it has plenty of old-school Tinseltown charm, with dark wood panelling, sultry lighting and vintage bowling lanes. Go with friends and order one of their potent punch bowls. 7000 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles; see Jigger and Pony This convivial, low-lit haunt was part of the wave of bars and restaurants that opened in the early 2010s and made the world sit up and take notice of Singapore as a competitive culinary destination. Though beginning as an independent spot, as its fortunes rose (it's now No. 5 on The World's 50 Best Bars), it moved into the more sultry confines of the Amara hotel, yet it retains a welcoming, cosy ambience. The magazine-like menu features helpful photos of each creation – try the Smashing Sundae, a delicious, fruity take on a milk punch. 165 Tanjong Pagar Road, Singapore; see Cape Town, South Africa Planet Bar Planet Bar is not exactly traditional, nor is it hip. It's the heart of the posh and locally loved 'Nellie' – the Mount Nelson, a pink confection of a hotel, with white trellised balconies and riotous flowerbeds, contemporary African art and antiques salvaged from the Union-Castle Line it once serviced. Charming waiters have been unruffling feathers here for more than a century, and deep, comfortable chairs house interesting, even famous, guests – local fashionistas, film directors and more. 76 Orange Street, Gardens, Cape Town; see Edinburgh, Scotland Cafe Royal Edinburgh The good folk of Edinburgh have been frequenting this little changed, outrageously ornate example of Victorian decorative excess just off Princes Street since the 1860s. It's always been the place for celebrations, commiserations or just gazing awestruck at acres of mahogany and gilded plasterwork, but there have never been social boundaries here, reflected in stained-glass portrayals of Edinburgh trades and Royal Doulton tiles portraying its great inventors. Blend in with oysters and a glass of champagne and feel the glow. 19 West Register Street, Edinburgh; see Barcelona, Spain Caribbean Club The trend for 'secret' cocktail bars hidden behind fridges and broom cupboards continues apace in Barcelona, but the original speakeasy is still the best. Caribbean Club, hidden behind a wooden door down an El Raval alley, calls itself a 'ronería' – a rum bar – and it stocks an enviable selection, though really you can order whatever you fancy. Styled as a cabin on an old-time cruise ship, it's a cosy bolthole just off La Rambla but a million nautical miles away. Carrer de les Sitges, 5, Ciutat Vella, 08001 Barcelona; 34 933 02 21 82; no website Miami, US Sweet Liberty With its cocktail program by homegrown mixology vanguard, the late great John Lermayer, Sweet Liberty is a laid-back neighbourhood spot in South Beach. It kicks up the energy late at night with an eclectic lineup of DJs and live music, but there's always space to tuck away for a more relaxed night out. A favourite among locals and visitors alike, the airy, high-ceilinged space is inviting, with an industrial vibe softened by palm tree-patterned wallpaper. Recommended is Sweet Liberty's pina colada, made with three different rums, coconut cream and Jamaican coffee, and you can't visit without an order of their addictive cauliflower nachos. 237-B 20th Street, Miami Beach; Paris, France Paris has no shortage of slinky drinking spots, but the refined Bar Josephine at Mandarin Oriental Lutetia is a favourite for a special treat. It feels quintessentially Parisian, thanks in part to its location in the historic heart of the Left Bank. Past patrons included Picasso, Cocteau and legendary cabaret star Josephine Baker, after whom it is named – and today it continues to attract a glitzy literary crowd. The fabulously restored art nouveau setting, including an exquisite 1910 mural, helps set the tone. Crucially, the cocktails are simply top-notch. Maestro mixologist Angelo Forte presides over a menu blending classics and more daring contemporary creations. 45 Boulevard Raspail, 75006 Paris; see Mexico City, Mexico Zinco Jazz Club Mexico City is, famously, massive, and downtown can feel a bit unfriendly after dark. But a jazz bar is almost always the kindest – as well as the coolest – place to go in a new town. Zinco is a dimly lit, sultry venue housed inside a former bank vault, dating to the 1930s. Red drapes behind the stage and black decor make the ambience feel classy and opulent. It's a showcase for local as well as visiting jazz bands and has an impressively busy roster. There are small tables with food service, but you may prefer to perch yourself by the corner of the bar, enjoy a slow mojito or premium mezcal and a quesadilla. Calle de Motolinia 20, Centro Historico, Centro, Mexico City; see Hong Kong, China Captain's Bar, Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong has no shortage of fantastic bars, including nine entries in the 2024 edition of the 50 Best Bars in Asia, but the place that best embodies the city's long cosmopolitan history is the Captain's Bar at the Mandarin Oriental. It is a classic hotel bar, a windowless ruby red box, with low lighting and deep leather armchairs, that has barely changed since the 1980s. The Captain's Bar eschews fads in favour of bartenders dressed in black dickie bows, perfectly mixed martinis and draught beers served in silver tankards (which regulars can have engraved). The live jazz music in the evenings only adds to the timeless vibe. 5 Connaught Road Central, Hong Kong; see Five of Australia's best bars Caretakers Cottage, Melbourne In a city where black is always the new black, this diminutive city boozer and its Gothic-revival, bluestone setting is a masterclass in Melbourne-ness. Close quarters mean you'll soon be chatting with regulars about vintage vinyl rarities and drink picks: Guinness on tap or their gloriously glacial house martini? There's no wrong decision. See Maybe Sammy, Sydney You feel instantly at home at Maybe Sammy, which is perhaps what sets it apart from your average bar. Yes, the cocktails here are uber-creative and served with flair, drinks with smoke and bubbles and imaginative blends of high-end ingredients. The food is tasty too. But it's the warmth of the welcome, the easy friendliness of the service, that makes Maybe Sammy Sydney's best. See Loading Mary Mary, Hobart Trust us when we tell you: you have to try the rum Manhattan at Mary Mary. It's crazy good. The bar blends three rums – Mount Gay Black Barrel, Bacardi Reserva Ocho and Plantation Overproof – and ages it in beeswax-coated jars, before serving it high with Pedro Ximenez sherry. Perfection. The historic sandstone walls and charming service just add to the allure. See The Gresham, Brisbane Lovers of fine spirits, rejoice. The Gresham has shelves stacked with some of the finest, rarest bottles around, particularly whisky: try a Balvenie 21-year-old, a Glenfiddich Grand Cru 23, an Old Pulteney 25, an Ichiro's Malt Double Distilleries, or dig into the huge ranges of Australian and American whiskies. And then prepare to indulge in stylish surrounds. See Maybe Mae, Adelaide Another indecisive bar name, another excellent bar. Maybe Mae is surely South Australia's leading cocktail bar, with a menu that's broken into four parts: 'From the Market', featuring seasonal produce; 'From the Cellar', using aged juices and preserves; 'Hall of Fame', the bar's most popular; and 'Non-Alcoholic', which gets deserved attention. Grab a dark, leather-bound booth here and soak up the sophistication. See
The Age
3 hours ago
- The Age
Twenty must-visit bars in the world's top cities (plus five in Australia)
The Thai capital is all about rooftop bars, and not just any rooftop – we're talking sky-high rooftops, hundreds of metres above the honk and glitter of the Bangkok streets. One of the best of these is Sky, an open-air bar on the 63rd floor of the Lebua building, a place jam-packed with wow factor from the moment you step out of the lift. The views up here are incredible, of course, perched as you are 250 metres above the ground. At night, Bangkok's bright lights just seem to stretch on forever. The cocktails are tasty too, if a little on the pricey side for BKK. 1055 Si Lom Road, Si Lom; see Dublin, Ireland Bar 1661 The chances of stumbling upon Bar 1661 accidentally are slim to none, but this Dublin bar stands head-and-shoulders above the rest. Though the impeccable cocktails are made with quirky components such as miso butter, dehydrated chillies and bone marrow, there's zero pretentiousness – just well-worn bar stools, dark walls and chatty bartenders. The star ingredient is poitin, the once-banned Irish moonshine, so try that in their signature Belfast Coffee, where it's shaken with cold brew, cream and nutmeg. 1 – 5 Green Street, Dublin; see Buenos Aires, Argentina Bar Britanico 'Bar' and 'cafe' are used interchangeably in Buenos Aires, which has hundreds of local corner venues for soft and strong drinks. Many have Italian and Spanish connections, but Britanico is one of the few surviving joints with ties to the British presence. These days it's open to allcomers, and is a place to come by day for good cortado or a bottle of beer and, in the evening, enjoy wine or vermouth and perhaps a meal. A few years ago, the bar was threatened with closure, but locals protested, and it was mercifully saved. With chequerboard tiles, windows on the street and calm lighting inside, it's a classic BA experience. Brasil 399, San Telmo, Buenos Aires; see Copenhagen, Denmark La Banchina The Danish capital isn't short of cool cocktail and craft beer joints, but nothing feels quite as quintessentially Copenhagen as laid-back La Banchina, a wine bar/cafe/restaurant on the Refshaleoen waterfront. Behind a small, blue-painted shack lies a large al fresco area where the sunny wooden dock is particularly popular (handy for taking dips in the harbour), though you may prefer a quieter, shadier spot amid the raised beds. To drink? An organic, flower-topped spritz or bottle of natural wine, ideally enjoyed as the sun sets across the water. Refshalevej 141, 1432 Copenhagen; 00 45 31 26 65 61; see Los Angeles, US The Spare Room, Hollywood Roosevelt Generally, hotel bars are rather sad places. But not so in Los Angeles. Here, many of the very best bars can be found in the city's upmarket hotels, from the Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel to the Tower Bar at the Sunset Tower. But the best of them all has to be The Spare Room at the Hollywood Roosevelt. Hidden away within the storied hotel, it has plenty of old-school Tinseltown charm, with dark wood panelling, sultry lighting and vintage bowling lanes. Go with friends and order one of their potent punch bowls. 7000 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles; see Jigger and Pony This convivial, low-lit haunt was part of the wave of bars and restaurants that opened in the early 2010s and made the world sit up and take notice of Singapore as a competitive culinary destination. Though beginning as an independent spot, as its fortunes rose (it's now No. 5 on The World's 50 Best Bars), it moved into the more sultry confines of the Amara hotel, yet it retains a welcoming, cosy ambience. The magazine-like menu features helpful photos of each creation – try the Smashing Sundae, a delicious, fruity take on a milk punch. 165 Tanjong Pagar Road, Singapore; see Cape Town, South Africa Planet Bar Planet Bar is not exactly traditional, nor is it hip. It's the heart of the posh and locally loved 'Nellie' – the Mount Nelson, a pink confection of a hotel, with white trellised balconies and riotous flowerbeds, contemporary African art and antiques salvaged from the Union-Castle Line it once serviced. Charming waiters have been unruffling feathers here for more than a century, and deep, comfortable chairs house interesting, even famous, guests – local fashionistas, film directors and more. 76 Orange Street, Gardens, Cape Town; see Edinburgh, Scotland Cafe Royal Edinburgh The good folk of Edinburgh have been frequenting this little changed, outrageously ornate example of Victorian decorative excess just off Princes Street since the 1860s. It's always been the place for celebrations, commiserations or just gazing awestruck at acres of mahogany and gilded plasterwork, but there have never been social boundaries here, reflected in stained-glass portrayals of Edinburgh trades and Royal Doulton tiles portraying its great inventors. Blend in with oysters and a glass of champagne and feel the glow. 19 West Register Street, Edinburgh; see Barcelona, Spain Caribbean Club The trend for 'secret' cocktail bars hidden behind fridges and broom cupboards continues apace in Barcelona, but the original speakeasy is still the best. Caribbean Club, hidden behind a wooden door down an El Raval alley, calls itself a 'ronería' – a rum bar – and it stocks an enviable selection, though really you can order whatever you fancy. Styled as a cabin on an old-time cruise ship, it's a cosy bolthole just off La Rambla but a million nautical miles away. Carrer de les Sitges, 5, Ciutat Vella, 08001 Barcelona; 34 933 02 21 82; no website Miami, US Sweet Liberty With its cocktail program by homegrown mixology vanguard, the late great John Lermayer, Sweet Liberty is a laid-back neighbourhood spot in South Beach. It kicks up the energy late at night with an eclectic lineup of DJs and live music, but there's always space to tuck away for a more relaxed night out. A favourite among locals and visitors alike, the airy, high-ceilinged space is inviting, with an industrial vibe softened by palm tree-patterned wallpaper. Recommended is Sweet Liberty's pina colada, made with three different rums, coconut cream and Jamaican coffee, and you can't visit without an order of their addictive cauliflower nachos. 237-B 20th Street, Miami Beach; Paris, France Paris has no shortage of slinky drinking spots, but the refined Bar Josephine at Mandarin Oriental Lutetia is a favourite for a special treat. It feels quintessentially Parisian, thanks in part to its location in the historic heart of the Left Bank. Past patrons included Picasso, Cocteau and legendary cabaret star Josephine Baker, after whom it is named – and today it continues to attract a glitzy literary crowd. The fabulously restored art nouveau setting, including an exquisite 1910 mural, helps set the tone. Crucially, the cocktails are simply top-notch. Maestro mixologist Angelo Forte presides over a menu blending classics and more daring contemporary creations. 45 Boulevard Raspail, 75006 Paris; see Mexico City, Mexico Zinco Jazz Club Mexico City is, famously, massive, and downtown can feel a bit unfriendly after dark. But a jazz bar is almost always the kindest – as well as the coolest – place to go in a new town. Zinco is a dimly lit, sultry venue housed inside a former bank vault, dating to the 1930s. Red drapes behind the stage and black decor make the ambience feel classy and opulent. It's a showcase for local as well as visiting jazz bands and has an impressively busy roster. There are small tables with food service, but you may prefer to perch yourself by the corner of the bar, enjoy a slow mojito or premium mezcal and a quesadilla. Calle de Motolinia 20, Centro Historico, Centro, Mexico City; see Hong Kong, China Captain's Bar, Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong has no shortage of fantastic bars, including nine entries in the 2024 edition of the 50 Best Bars in Asia, but the place that best embodies the city's long cosmopolitan history is the Captain's Bar at the Mandarin Oriental. It is a classic hotel bar, a windowless ruby red box, with low lighting and deep leather armchairs, that has barely changed since the 1980s. The Captain's Bar eschews fads in favour of bartenders dressed in black dickie bows, perfectly mixed martinis and draught beers served in silver tankards (which regulars can have engraved). The live jazz music in the evenings only adds to the timeless vibe. 5 Connaught Road Central, Hong Kong; see Five of Australia's best bars Caretakers Cottage, Melbourne In a city where black is always the new black, this diminutive city boozer and its Gothic-revival, bluestone setting is a masterclass in Melbourne-ness. Close quarters mean you'll soon be chatting with regulars about vintage vinyl rarities and drink picks: Guinness on tap or their gloriously glacial house martini? There's no wrong decision. See Maybe Sammy, Sydney You feel instantly at home at Maybe Sammy, which is perhaps what sets it apart from your average bar. Yes, the cocktails here are uber-creative and served with flair, drinks with smoke and bubbles and imaginative blends of high-end ingredients. The food is tasty too. But it's the warmth of the welcome, the easy friendliness of the service, that makes Maybe Sammy Sydney's best. See Loading Mary Mary, Hobart Trust us when we tell you: you have to try the rum Manhattan at Mary Mary. It's crazy good. The bar blends three rums – Mount Gay Black Barrel, Bacardi Reserva Ocho and Plantation Overproof – and ages it in beeswax-coated jars, before serving it high with Pedro Ximenez sherry. Perfection. The historic sandstone walls and charming service just add to the allure. See The Gresham, Brisbane Lovers of fine spirits, rejoice. The Gresham has shelves stacked with some of the finest, rarest bottles around, particularly whisky: try a Balvenie 21-year-old, a Glenfiddich Grand Cru 23, an Old Pulteney 25, an Ichiro's Malt Double Distilleries, or dig into the huge ranges of Australian and American whiskies. And then prepare to indulge in stylish surrounds. See Maybe Mae, Adelaide Another indecisive bar name, another excellent bar. Maybe Mae is surely South Australia's leading cocktail bar, with a menu that's broken into four parts: 'From the Market', featuring seasonal produce; 'From the Cellar', using aged juices and preserves; 'Hall of Fame', the bar's most popular; and 'Non-Alcoholic', which gets deserved attention. Grab a dark, leather-bound booth here and soak up the sophistication. See
Sky News AU
2 days ago
- Sky News AU
Simon Baker shocks as the Aussie actor attends major film festival in open-toe Birkenstocks
Simon Baker has popped up in Italy, where he attended an exclusive media event looking every part the quintessential casual Australian. The Aussie A-lister attended the Filming Italy Sardegna Festival at Forte Village in Cagliari, Sardinia alongside other Hollywood Talent on Thursday. The film and television event, now in its 8th edition, will present more than 70 films, which are either Italian or world premieres, until Sunday, with the aim of spotlighting Italian and international cinema and supporting talent. Baker is set to receive the Filming Italy Excellence Award. The 55-year-old looked dapper as posed with the festival's General Director, Tiziana Rocca, and Twilight star, actress Ashley Greene. Baker donned his signature glasses, which he paired with a pair of jeans, a belt, and a light-coloured shirt with the sleeves rolled up to his elbows. However, it was the Boy Swallows Universe star's choice of footwear that baffled fans. Baker opted for a pair of moss-green Birkenstock slides instead of dress shoes for the occasion. The actor proudly paraded his unique style as Tiziana stood beside him and pointed to the famed Australian. A close-up shot of his shoes showed that they appeared slightly worse for wear but were still in good condition. "I love his simplicity," one fan wrote on Instagram. "He looks great," another person said. Baker traded the Hollywood lights for a country getaway in the Northern Rivers region of New South Wales, near where he grew up, in 2016. The laid-back celebrity in April championed the "beautiful frankness" of Down Under after having immersed himself in many parts of the world. "Once you start to assimilate back into our culture, you also realise there's a beautiful frankness to Australians that is priceless," he told Esquire Australia. "There's no flowery way of putting things; it's just direct. "And that level of authenticity is grounding. It's like a cosy blanket. It's very comfortable and familiar for me." The actor, who rose to fame as consultant Patrick Jane in The Mentalist from 2008 to 2015, broke his silence in April on the status of The Devil Wears Prada 2 and whether he'll reprise his role in the upcoming sequel. Baker played the elusive Christian Thompson in the 2006 hit and revealed to he's unlikely to make a comeback. "I haven't got the call up yet," he said. "So I don't know- probably not, no." It comes as there has been no word on whether Anne Hathaway's character, Andy Sachs, will return ahead of the sequel next May. The follow-up is expected to explore Miranda Priestly (played by Meryl Streep) grappling with the decline of the magazine industry while former assistant Emily Charlton (Emily Blunt) returns for a dramatic showdown.
