Kashka, kindness and cross-cultural connections

Arab Times

a day ago

When Belinda Lewis arrived in Kuwait in the spring of 2021, the country was still under lockdown, its streets quiet, its gatherings on pause. Undeterred, the first female British Ambassador of Kuwait set about building connections in the most challenging of circumstances from behind quarantine walls, with a toddler and a baby in tow. It was hardly the first test of her resilience. Ambassador Lewis had served in some of the world's most difficult postings, from overseeing the Helmand Reconstruction Team in Afghanistan to navigating the turbulent months in Iraq after Mosul's fall. In Kuwait, she brought the same grit and grace, strengthening a 125-year-old partnership between the UK and Kuwait through trade, education, environmental cooperation, and cultural ties. As she prepares to leave, she departs not just as a representative of Britain but as a friend to Kuwait, leaving behind a legacy of warmth, diplomacy, and significant achievements.
In this conversation, she highlights the 125th anniversary celebrations of UK-Kuwait diplomatic relations, which included cultural fusions, educational opportunities, and horticultural projects. She emphasises the strong military partnership, noting 30 short-term training teams from the UK, praising Kuwait's support for the diplomatic corps. On a personal note, she shares her children's attachment to their school and garden, and her own fondness for local dishes like kashka. She also recounts unique experiences, including receiving a piece of Queen Elizabeth's coronation carpet and being warmly welcomed into a Kuwaiti home she had entered by mistake during Ramadan.
AT - You arrived in Kuwait at a unique time, in the middle of the pandemic. What were your first impressions, and how did you navigate the restrictions to still connect with people?
Ambassador Belinda Lewis (BL)- It was still a very difficult time then. I remember arriving at the Kuwait airport so clearly. There were a couple of staff members who were there to greet us. We had a very warm reception. But I arrived with a 10-month-old baby and a three-year-old who was fed up, having fallen asleep in the last 30 minutes of the flight and waking up very grumpy and cranky. I seemed to have lots of plastic bags. I needed to change my baby's nappy as soon as we arrived. I remember just feeling not very ambassadorial. And then we came to this beautiful residence. I remember thinking, "Wow, how lucky are we to live in a house that's filled with so much history and has such a beautiful garden?" The garden, the outside space, was amazing to have.
I think about what it was like trying to connect with people when you're brand new in a country, especially when your whole way of working depends on networking and meeting others. But we couldn't meet in person, so I did a lot through Teams and Zoom, just like everyone did back then, and that was fine.
One of the strangest moments came when we started coming out of lockdown. People began taking off their masks, and we could finally meet face-to-face instead of through a screen. There were so many people I didn't recognise. I'd introduce myself, only to be told, 'Oh, we've spoken three times before!' Sometimes, a person's smile wasn't what I'd imagined-when you've only seen the top half of someone's face, you picture the rest, and then when the mask comes off, it's different from what you expected.
It almost felt like getting to know everyone all over again. But it was a wonderful feeling when things finally opened up. A strange start, yes, but I learned so much about different ways of working.
AT - You've been here four years and four months. You have accomplished a great deal and witnessed significant events during your tenure here, including the Queen's passing and the King's coronation. What would you say was the most rewarding achievement of your tenure here?
BL - I would say marking 125 years of formal diplomatic relations between Kuwait and the UK. Our 125th anniversary celebrations took place throughout the entire year of 2024, and they were the result of a brilliant, beautiful partnership between my embassy, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, other parts of the Kuwaiti government, who were so supportive and helpful, and the Kuwaiti embassy in London. We had numerous events both in the UK and here in Kuwait, and we created some truly unique cultural fusions.
We designed a new tartan, launched lasting initiatives such as horticultural education projects that are now evolving into food security programmes, and left behind permanent legacies like the beautiful mural in the Gold Souk. In a few weeks, after I leave Kuwait, I'll join my successor, Qudsi Rasheed, at Cardiff University to unveil another mural, our final project from the 125th anniversary celebrations.
We also welcomed our then Deputy Prime Minister, Oliver Dowden, along with several other ministers who visited during the year. The celebrations touched on trade, investment, education, culture, the arts, and literature. For example, we hosted a children's writer and illustrator from Northern Ireland.
It truly felt like a genuine partnership between the UK and Kuwait, and I'm deeply grateful for the support we received, from government bodies to the British expatriate community in Kuwait, who all joined in making the celebrations a success.
AT - You've mentioned the numerous activities you have spearheaded and been involved in, ranging from investment to education to environmental collaboration. Which of these areas is closest to your heart?
BL - So I guess it is probably investment. I started my career as a banker. I used to work for HSBC, and I've always retained an interest in commercial work, specifically in trade services and investment. And the UK benefits hugely from inward investment from Kuwait. I've always enjoyed tracking the movement in different sectors, and it's really interesting. It's a very important part of our partnership. So I would probably go for investment.
AT - I'm sure there were moments during your service when you felt especially proud to represent the UK in Kuwait.
BL -Oh, there were so many memorable moments. When I think back, anything connected to the British military and our very strong defence partnership with Kuwait instantly comes to mind. Maybe it's because of the uniforms, the flags, and the national anthems- we always mark those occasions with such ceremony.
Just last year alone, we had about 30 short-term British training teams come in and out of Kuwait to work with the Kuwaiti military across a wide range of areas: bomb disposal, diving training, first aid, particularly battlefield first aid and many other specialised fields.
Whenever I see soldiers, sailors, and aviators arriving, they bring with them not just their expertise, but also a 'can-do' attitude. The UK and Kuwait share the same military doctrine, and we are fortunate to have the excellent Staff College here in Kuwait, which hosts both British instructors and British students.
AT - You worked very closely with local leaders, organisations and citizens. What have you learned from the Kuwaiti way of doing things?
BL - Oh, so much. I think I've learned quite a bit about patience. The British style is often quite direct: we set our timeframes, we have our agendas, and we believe we should jolly well stick to them. But sometimes, that approach just doesn't work in Kuwait.
There's also something unique about how ideas are raised and how decisions are made here. From a UK perspective, you might look at who holds the budget or who is the most senior person, perhaps the chairperson of the board, and assume that's who you need to approach. But in Kuwait, it doesn't always work like that. Sometimes, the person who will actually make the decision is more junior, but has the faith, trust, and confidence of a senior decision-maker. If you only speak to the senior person without engaging the others, you may get nowhere.
So, I've learned to think more laterally and to avoid pushing too hard on timing. It has been a real education for me. I've worked in this part of the world before, but every place is different and the Kuwaiti way is its own.
AT - You've often spoken about Kuwait's hospitality, and was there a particular instance where you felt that warmth most strongly?
BL -I've felt it most when welcomed into people's homes. In many countries, as a diplomat, you meet in restaurants, cafés, or ministries, but in Kuwait, I've often been warmly invited into family homes. I love the casual touches, like shoes by the door, rollerblades in the hall, and little bikes around; it feels real and personal.
One of my most memorable experiences was during Ramadan a couple of years ago, when I accidentally went into the wrong house. I was a complete stranger, yet the group of ladies there offered me coffee and chocolates and chatted warmly, even though they clearly had no idea why I was there. When we realised the mix-up, we laughed about it. You couldn't do that in the UK, but in Kuwait, a stranger is simply a guest to be welcomed.
AT - That's a lovely memory. Diplomats get to see a country beyond the surface. What's one lesser-known thing about Kuwait that you think more people should know?
BL - One thing I've come to greatly admire about Kuwait is how supportive it is of the diplomatic corps. Kuwait works hard to ensure that as many countries as possible can have an embassy here, whether large or small. They make diplomats feel welcome, help facilitate openings, and provide special measures to keep embassies running. This generosity allows countries, especially those that might struggle to maintain a presence in the GCC or Middle East, to establish a comfortable and manageable base here. Many of us are deeply grateful to Kuwait for this commitment to diplomacy.
AT – Can you remember the first Kuwaiti meal you had? Does anything in particular stand out in the Kuwaiti cuisine?
BL - I can't remember the very first meal, but yes, there's a particular dish which I've never had anywhere other than in Kuwait. It's one that many other British people don't seem to like. I think it's called kashka, and it's almost like a porridge, but it has meat in it. I've had it at most Ramadans. I think it's really tasty and savoury, but there's something about the texture that doesn't seem to suit other British palettes
AT – What's that one thing about Kuwait that you think your children will miss most?
AT - I know they'll miss the garden here, where they spent hours playing out there. They'll miss their school. They were very attached to the English School here, where they had lots of friends, and seemed to get on really well with their teachers. So I guess really, for them, it's everything, because they don't really remember London at all. They were 10 months old and three when they moved here. So it's their whole childhood.
AT – You must have received some very special gifts during your time here. Is there anything in particular that stands out?
BL – I've received some extraordinary gifts- old documents, rare books, often linked to the UK–Kuwait relationship, which I display in the residence for guests to enjoy. One remarkable gift from Sheikha Hala was a piece of carpet woven for Queen Elizabeth II's coronation, depicting Windsor Castle. It had disappeared years ago, possibly sold or packed away, but Sheikha Halah and Essa Dashi tracked it down, bought it at auction, and returned it to the residence. It now hangs proudly in our drawing room.
AT – If you could master one Kuwaiti tradition, what would it be, and why?
BL-I love watching the dancing at weddings and the unique way people here move. I was once told it's like a trotting pony. On the occasions when I've been persuaded to join in, which always leaves me a bit embarrassed, I realise I'm great at air guitar, but not so good at Kuwaiti dancing. I'd love to master it, but it never quite works for me. The 'trotting pony' style looks simple, yet doing it in a relaxed, effortless way is much harder than it seems.