'Aquaman' star Jason Momoa nearly drowned while surfing: 'My body stopped'
Off screen, the sea has no master.
Aquaman star Jason Momoa learned that lesson the hard way while attempting a miles-long paddle through ferocious Hawaiian waters and nearly not coming back up.
"I was doing this paddle, we went in at Jaws," Momoa detailed on Monday's new episode of the Smartless podcast, referring to the nickname for Pe'ahi, Maui's biggest surf break. "We paddled like 13 miles down the coast. You're kind of almost a mile offshore, and then my leash snapped. We're about seven miles into it and my leash snapped, and it's so windy on Maui."
Cohost Sean Hayes asked the former screen god of the sea, Baywatch lifeguard, and scion to a legendary Hawaiian surfing family if a "protocol of what to do in that moment" kicked in when he sensed he was in true danger.
"I was trained pretty well, so I was fine," Momoa responded. "I took quite a few on the head. They're pretty big, like 10-foot Hawaiian waves. But I'm probably half a mile at that point offshore. And it's actually this place is called 'S--f---s' because there's all this water that pulls out and of a channel there, [and] you just get hit with these waves."
Momoa recalled that he was fine, until he wasn't.
"I was stuck in this crazy spot, which is probably the outer reef and unknown to me. I was really on the outer reef and they couldn't see me," he recounted. "I had my paddle and I was waving it and they couldn't see me, and the waves were so big. When his thoughts turned to his daughter Lola Iolani, then 3 months old, the actor said, "I just lost it, I was like, 'Oh s---.'"
Things got worse before they got better. "I was out there for a while, and I just couldn't see anyone coming to get me. I couldn't move anymore, and my arms and my legs gave up after, you know, I was out there for a while... My body stopped. Like I couldn't move my arms anymore, and I bubbled down. Then my my toe hit the outer reef. I literally gave up, and I'm screaming inside."
Finally, one of Momoa's surf buddies located him, but their shared fight for survival was only just beginning. "I get back on the board and we start paddling. He's like, 'You got to go out,' so we just keep paddling out."
Currents prevented the men from making a beeline to the shore, and "brutal waves" cause them both to lose their boards. "I have seven more miles to paddle. My feet are covered in blood, and I'm just literally [with] my ancestors just paddling the rest of this way, head down, and we get out."
Momoa eventually made it to shore, but the experience had a profound, lasting effect on him. "I used to smoke two, three packs a day. I couldn't stop for my kids, I couldn't stop for my ex, I couldn't stop smoking. And the moment I came out, I never smoked again. Like, I just died. I tried and tried, but I couldn't do it again because I just gave up. Like, I gave up my life."The Hawaii native won that battle with the sea, and recently tussled with another elemental force: fire. While filming Apple TV+'s new historical series Chief of War, Momoa had to brave the lava fields of Kalapana, and even an eruption of the famed volcano Kīlauea.
"I just knew that the volcano was going to go off, and everybody laughed at me and didn't believe me,' Momoa he told Entertainment Weekly earlier this month. "You're obviously stirring up a lot of spirits and mana. It was unbelievable, but there was a really positive energy."
You can listen to Momoa's full interview on the Smartless podcast above.
Read the original article on Entertainment Weekly
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USA Today
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Jason Momoa reveals he almost died in a surfing accident: 'My arms and my legs gave up'
Jason Momoa is opening up about a scary near-death experience that inspired a major lifestyle change. The "Chief of War" star, 46, revealed on the Aug. 11 episode of the "SmartLess" podcast that he once nearly died in a surfing accident. The incident occurred when Momoa's surfboard leash "snapped" while he was almost a mile off shore on the island of Maui. "It's so windy on Maui, and so the board just went," he said. "I couldn't even see it anymore." He continued, "I took quite a few on the head. They were pretty big, like 10-foot Hawaiian waves. I'm literally probably a half-mile offshore. ... There's all this water that pulls out. It pulls you out, and you just get hit with these waves, so I was stuck in this crazy spot." Momoa said no one could see him while he was waving for help. "I was out there for a while," he recalled. "I couldn't see anyone coming to get me, and I couldn't move anymore. My arms and my legs gave up." The "Aquaman" actor "couldn't move my arms anymore" and "bubbled down," he said, adding, "I'm literally in the middle of the ocean, and I can barely put my lips above, just to breathe and get a break, but I had already given up. (I'd) already given up and died." After around 10 minutes of "hanging on the side of this reef," Momoa said he was rescued by surfer Laird Hamilton, who came from behind to get him. The two then had to paddle for miles while Momoa's feet were "covered in blood." The "Dune" star, who prayed to his ancestors for help while he was out there, shared that this is what inspired him to finally quit smoking. "I used to smoke like two or three packs a day," he said. "I couldn't stop for my kids, I couldn't stop for my ex. I couldn't stop smoking. The moment I came in, I never smoked again. I just died. I tried and tried, but I couldn't do it again, because I gave up my life." Momoa was born in Honolulu, Hawaii, and comes from "one of the biggest surf families in Hawaii," he noted on "SmartLess." The actor previously worked at his family's surf shop. Momoa is currently starring on the Hawaiian historical epic "Chief of War" on Apple TV+, and he recently teased his return as Duncan Idaho in the third "Dune" film," which is set for release in 2026.
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